sheefreak

Unfortunately you will fail the db test at Silver Lake. Fatty's ring in at 95-97 db, t-5's, 98-100 or more. They will let you slide w/98. Buddy of mine has the Hush Kit just for Silver Lake.

Most builders will not try to re-port cylinders for added stroke. Best bet would be to go w/spacer plate if you want to use those jugs. Really have to watch your squish when using a spacer plate w/extra gasket and tolerances and such.

Not sure why you are geared that much lower than stock but I run a 15-42 in sand w/compareable power. If you don't want to get rid of your 45 rear get a 16 for the front. Will be close to the same gear ratio.

My bike dynoed at 85 horse and I run a 9 paddle hauler w/a good rollout and have all the bite I need. You basically want to run as little paddle as you can get away with.

You are positive it is not a cub?

Single carb setup.

The top of my pistons stick right out of the jugs not just the dome of the piston. Sounds like you got hosed and it is just a long rod, not a stroker. If you want to check to see if it will run the way it is, bolt and tourque the head down. Get some thick solder and check the squish on it. You want a minimum of .035 and I don't like to go more than .042. Some people will argue this, but a high compression motor will sometimes detonate w/too much squish.

Not sure what you are trying to say?

You gave up before spending 12 dollars in parts to do a pressure test? Anyway, you probably have a head gasket leak. I had one where I pinched a o-ring on a cool-head and would spew black shit out the pipe and spark plug was backing out(detonation/lean condition) but was rich as hell on the right side. Did you tork all the head bolts in 2 stages? Did you use new head gasket?

I have never run the 927 but hear it is a good oil. I run the Klotz supertechniplate...smells good and protects well. I am not sure if that is available through the website you linked cause I got sick of digging to find the oils.

I do the same, just fill it up, run it a little then check and top off. I have my overflow line directed at one of the pipes so I can easily tell if it is spittin.

Yes you can use automotive paint. I would use an adhesive promoter(body shops use it for bumpers and other plastic parts) and a high build flex primer. Some say use a flex agent in the paint, but I didn't and mine has help up fine. But my plastics are cut front and back and are pretty rigid. I used Dupont Chromabase paint and then shot w/clear. I used a pretty course grit(220-300)to rough the plastics up before I shot w/adhesive promoter. There should be no shiny spots left ANYWHERE on the plastics. If it doesn't take well to one spot, it will grow and get worse in no time. Then shoot the primer and from there the process is no different than shooting anything else. Are you familiar w/painting?

Yep! Unless you have a 10-mill cub casting w/4 mill crank in it, but not likely.

Would still have run for a while from the fuel in the bowls.

Are you running high compression? If so your plug gap needs to be addressed. I ran 190 lbs of compression last year and had a problem w/mine breaking up on top. Jetting was good, squish checked out, but was running yamaha's recomended plug gap. I think it is refered to as flame out. In real high compression motors you need to close that gap. .018 for Alky, .022 for gas.

Modded stock cover or new Direct drive aftermarket? Polished, chromed, what color cover.... might be easier if you post the info... and maybe a picture.

Where did the Cheetah come from? Is it ported? Assuming gas?

You'll never make it w/the CPI silencers. I got checked twice last year and both times I was at 106db. I don't even think the cascade silencers will get you there.

http://www.mt-llc.com/contact/pricing_info.shtml

I would highly suggest using tack cloth to wipe everything down before painting. And do not touch the primed surface w/your bare hands before you paint. The oil from your hands will make the paint "fish eye" or whatever you want to call it. All very good advice above. Just remember, the key to a good paint job is prep, prep, clean, prep, prep........ you get the idea.

I don't think a 10 paddle is ideal for that setup, but would work. I would go w/a 69-71 rollout(22x11x8) 9 paddle b2b(buffed but not the superlight) You will even be able to grow into that tire. I have a good amount of power w/6 in swinger and mine hook great. I am assuming you have more of a dune bike rather than a strict dragger. An ultralight is more of a track tire. Will work on the dunes, especially if you just hit the drag strip, but I would be careful if you hit any rocky, stumpy, stick laden areas.

I have had the screw that holds the shiftstar on come out before and would still shift. It was the reason I bought a perfectly good running Banshee for $800. Guy thought he "blew" it because the screw took out the oil seal and started blowing a ton of smoke. But regardless of what it is you will know once you take that cover off. I would not ride it anymore untill you do.

PM Fastoys...I am sure he can hook you up.

Need to know your mods...particularly Power, swingarm length, oh and your weight may help as well. But yes, skat-trak's are an excellent choice. There are many different types as well. What are your intentions....duning, drag?

You should be good, but I would fit the pipe up and measure to make sure.