sheefreak

Never dealt w/him but he has a shop, and I know many people that have purchased from him.

Been checked twice w/CPI inframes at 106

Fatty's will ring in around 96 db. Not sure on the Toomeys, but I would think hush kit.

Don't ever run your motor w/o an airfilter, and definately don't run it w/rags stuffed in the carbs.

You will not get a good plug reading without a load. You might start a hair richer if it is cold where you are at, but you are real close. I wouldn't go much more than a turn out on the airscrew. Fatty's mine ran better w/27.5 pilots, but that was w/the lid off. If you end up running w/the lid off eventually, I would move the clip a notch down on the needle as well.

Around $1800 new depending on where you go.

It won't run well at all. The 795 series pistons only compensate for the long rod w/a slightly different pin position. If it is ported for a 4 mill stroke, your port timings are going to be off. You may be able to deck the bottom of the cylinders to make it run better, but IMHO, the product you purchased was misrepresented. I think I would work on a refund and start from square one. If not, you are going to have to buy a 4-mill long rod crank.

You don't need a pingel for gas. Stock carbs and T-5's will work fine, but you will be losing out on as much as 20 HP give or take.

Don't be a dick unless you want the same treatment when you sell something or ask a question. If you don't think they are a good buy, don't buy them. Besides, not everyone in the world prefers Shearers.

Happy B-Day!

As Daj stated above, if he has even a decent mild port, he will probably win. Your only chance is he runs out of gear. Good luck.

Is it possible that the reason it blew up in the first place is because it was lean? You may have cleaned your carbs, but sounds like you didn't clean the pilots well. The pilots need to be taken out and compressed air run through them. Did you do this? This would cause a lean condition once you get it to start and will pop and crack at idle. As mentioned above, you need to take the carbs back apart, find out what you have for jets, and clean those pilots! They are so small it doesn't take much to clog them up. Also did you do any mods that would affect airflow when you rebuilt. Did it start easy before you blew it.

Not a problem, let us know how it turns out!

I am working on a deal right now for a new bike. If it goes through, I will have an extra from a 99. Good and straight. I live in Battle Creek, MI 49015. I will get back w/you.

It is all fine and dandy if you are going to add it, ride and drain right after. But to me that's silly. Why not just spend the cash now and drain it all, put in new, and be set through next summer? It's not the temperature when operating, but when sitting not being used in the winter time.

You are fine w/that. It would be 40:1 ratio fuel to oil. 20 liters converted to ml is 20,000. 20,000 / 500 =40, hence 40 parts of fuel to one part of oil.

Sometimes there are bad ass jumps there, sometimes not so much. The dunes change all the time. Even from day to day on dry windy days. But if you haven't ridden dunes, it is definately worth at least one trip to check it out. I am hooked, I go as much as possible. Oh, and if you spend enough time at the dunes, the drag stip will call out to you. It is uncontrollable LOL.

Here is the lazy way. http://www.cbperformance.com/enginecalc.html

Animal, I was thinking the same thing, then went a season w/my current mid 80's hp setup. I will not purchase another item for my quad before I get a duneable. Any time I have my bike under full power, it shifts like shit. Forget about power shifting unless you want to loose your tranny from mis-shifts.

Are you pretty light? Curious as to why you went w/a +6 for the mods you have. Maybe for future planning? I run a +6, 9-paddle haulers, and about 85 horse and I hook hard in sand. Another thing to look at is your gearing. Are you running a 20 or 22 inch tire? If you tried both tires w/same amount of paddles, there would be a drastic difference as rollout affects final drive gear ratio. If you are blowing them off, gear up a little. It won't blow the tires off at the line as much(if at all) and you will have much more on top. Just remember, longer swingarm equals less traction. More paddles eauals less speed, etc. You can make an adjustment to fix your problem by going w/more paddle, but at the expense of top end speed. The art is in the balance of these three items to match the power you have.

Get rid of the snorkel and try it where you have it now. You should have to lean it a little more to get it right on. But do a plug chop so you can be sure. I am willing to bet you are a hair lean w/lid off and 270's, so be careful. When you said it ran like shit w/the 290's, was that w/the lid on?

You need egt probes to monitor the exhaust temp. Your temps would be around 1000 deg. right outside the exhaust port.

Crack in the boot would be your air leak. Don't run it anymore untill you fix it and check over the other one real well. A lean at idle will make the bike rev. If it is bad enough the cylinder will misfire if at all. The fact that it calms down when you pull the choke lever is even more evidence as it richens up the pilot ckt.

The fact that you are going to go ride it anyway is the reason you blame your problems on it being a 2-stroke.

Have seen a bad air leak act that way. To much air and doesn't fire all the time if at all. Plug will even be wet as stated. Do you have a leakdown tester? I am assuming you have looked at all the obvious things.