sheefreak

These will work fine. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...mp;navType=type

Redline and Dr Q know their stuff. I remember reading this thread. R.I.P. Renosand. http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...true#Post413121

Never tried it but you'd be paying way to much money for no reason. It isn't the reed that helps airflow, it is the cage. I think it costs $60 for replacement v-forces, or $30 for a decent set of boyeseen's that will do the same thing.

The place that Daj suggested is sweet. Between $600 and $700 and they come right to your house or wherever you are shipping from and take it directly to the recieving party. Don't have to crate or drain Fluids. You may find a cheaper rate, but not w/this good of service and convenience. Here is a link directly to the ATV page w/prices and details. http://www.motorcycleshippers.com/s_shipping_atv.htm I have also heard Greyhound will ship them pretty cheap, but have never used them. May want to give them a call.

Sorry, I didn't explain what I was trying to say very well. I realize you don't need the heavy springs on a lockup, and I know he didn't ask about a lockup. I am in need of a lockup myself as I run 6 Toomey springs and it sucks. I was just explaining why you might need heavy springs and that a lockup achieves the same thing and beyond.

The more HP you have, the more spring tension(or cintrifical(spelling?) force if you are speaking lockout) you need on the clutch paks to keep them from slipping.

The power is smooth and strong from the bottom up. More torque stock as they are set up w/a longer stroke from the factory than a Banshee. Granted, in a wide open area where you can open a Banshee up, it will whip the 250R.

I bought a Honda 250R for my girlfriend to ride and I ended up loveing it. It is now my all purpose quad. I beat the shit out of it, my friends ride it, and my girl learned on it. Very reliable if you take care of it, keep an eye on your plugs and such. Handles way better than a Banshee. A Raptor and 450 will beat it in a drag race if you are talking basically stock, but the R will hang w/either in the trails just fine. I can fly on mine. I don't think you would be disappointed.

I use WD-40, but on a non o-ring chain. I thought wd-40 was hard on rubber, but you all seem to be doing ok w/it....

You are not going to see a huge difference in switching intakes. You would see much more improvement spending $40 bucks to bump the timing if you haven't done so already.

I have also had good luck w/the Tusk kit. Going to be second season on a drag ported 4-mill.

With a 13 you should easily be able to leave in second. How is your jetting. I am assuming you rejeted for the temps. How healthy is your top end? Checked compression recently? Something is not quite right.

Need some pics and details on cylinders and head. [email protected] Are the domes cut for the stroke, or did you run a spacer. If they are cut did Rudy cut them? Gas or alky? Do the cylinders come w/a set of pistons and rings ready to run? If so how much time on them? What overbore are they at? Is it a Pro-design, NOSS, etc. Did you ever have these cylinders dyno'd? Or maybe some times produced? I know Rudy's shit runs but gotta ask.

Looking for a duneable... but who cut it and how much for the override?

One of the headaches of going fast. Well worth it IMO.

I would be willing to bet they would run right w/shearers. Andy is good at everything, pipes may even be his strong point.

I agree. Brand new clutch components all the way around and perfectly adjusted mine will creep when I rev it getting ready to launch. That didn't happen till I had quite a bit of power though.

Have you checked your clutch adjustment on top of the case. Are the arrows lined up? It is also possible that your clutch basket is grooved which will make the plates not want to spread apart when clutch pulled in. Couple places to start.

They look too small to be drag pipes period. I have no clue what they are.

Anyone know where to buy them new?

Not really. Porting is the way to go if you want a dramatic increase. Timing also makes quite a difference. The only problem is you would be pushing the envelope if you are not already running race fuel. If you want to go w/a little larger carb, no bigger than 30's w/o any port work.

I wouldn't go this route either. It is a lot of undue stress on a lot of parts(tranny gears, shafts, cases...).

You should be able to space it out as Bansh-eman stated. You will run in to the same problem w/CPI's. You are stuffing a FAT pipe body in a frame, you are going to encounter clearence issues. Whatever you do, do not dent that pipe. 2-stroke pipes are refered as tuned pipes for a reason. The shape of the pipe is not for looks, especially a Shearer pipe. People can argue it will not affect performance, but it does.

You may want to condider PT mids then. Great low to mid and will rev out a little.

Pictures of override? Who cut it? How much has it been used?