sheefreak

When you look at the slides, check to make sure they are ALL the way down. W/no load the bike will rev to the moon if slides are even slightly stuck open. An air leak would do this, but it would have to be a pretty bad one. If you only took off the carbs make your intakes are not leaking, and carb tops are tight.

No matter what you use for paint it is not going to survive rollovers and tight trail riding. I used Dupont automotive paint w/an adhesive promoter and flex primer. But mine is a duner and I am not known to roll it over often LOL! If I were you I would go cheap. The Krylon fusion mentioned above will work fine.

Shop needs to sepatare the crank and put it back to gether for ya. The bad thing is, by time you pay to do this, buy the TZ bearing for the clutch side(I run a Maxload on the stator side as well) pay for the shipping there, you might as well buy a new one already trued and welded w/bearing upgrades. Look around, last I checked it was $250-300 to rebuild a twin crank.

Yes, the inner hub will just spin w/the rag or penny. You should really get the proper tool to do this. I think the flywheel/clutch hub tool is like $20-$30 max. I have seen it done by screwing two screws into the hub and holding w/a screwdriver as mentioned above. But I have seen someone break one of the thread mounts on the hub doing this as well.

I have the boss and love it.

Pilot should be around 48-52.

You haven't told us if it is a long rod or not. If it is(115mm) then you need the 795's. If it isn't, you can run the pistons you have. Either way, you are going to have to cut the domes and have the cylinders ported. And that doesn't mean "machine the exuaght ports to match the top of the piston when it is bdc?" You really need to talk to a builder. You can run the spacer and avoid haveing to cut the domes and port the jugs. It will not run near as well though. You will basically have the added stroke w/stock porting specs. You could get a lot more power than that out of a stock stroke by just porting the jugs.

45 pilot on stock carb...LOL! I didn't even know such a thing existed.

Here is a direct quote from DR Q. If you are not familiar w/DR Q he is one of the most knowledgable builders of 2-stroke suzuki's out there. This was a response to the question of what flaws do they have from the factory. OK, I'll spell it out in black and white in case anybody cares. 1987: The bike came out with a head w/only 6 X 8mm studs holding it down, a head chamber prone to detonate, a "bleed' type carb that had a lean spot/jetting issues and the case had no support around the magneto side crank bearing. The bike detonated, beat the crank bearings/case out and then major vibration started. All this vibration f-cks evrything up........from the frame, bolts, pegs, flywheel,cylinder ears cracking etc, etc. The longer/harder the bike is run before it's fixed the more stuff is trashed. I wrote an Rx on MacD that addresses these issues and more so you will end up w/a bullet proof LT500 that you can actually enjoy riding instead of learning the "finer points" of "tow rope wrangling" $.02 RK

What they couldn't see were the now known weaknesses in the design of the motor of the Zilla.

Pics of the throttle and intake to [email protected] please.

115...only affects what piston you use.

I know a lot of people mix their fuel 50/50 but I wouldn't and this is why. Race fuels all have an octane rating. This is an estimated octane rating. I believe VP is the only one who guarentees the stated octane rating for every drop of fuel. If you can't necessarily count on a race fuel to be 100%, how are you going to trust a mixture of 93 and 110 to give you consistent deto protection? If you want a more technical explanation on the octane rating of fuels check out a couple different web sites(VP, Torco, Cam2,etc.)

Must be running it rich as hell to mask that deto problem and losing valuable ponies in the process.

Wasn't aware we had a downloadable clymers or factory service manual.

I think he means won't disengage Chase. As stated above, you are going to need to check adjustment. Look at the arm on top of the cases that your clutch cable connect to. There is an arrow on that arm and an arrow on the top case. Those arrows need to line up. If you find they don't, you are going to have to take the clutch side cover off to adjust it. At this point you will be able to physically check everything out. If you aren't familiar w/the banshee motor, you probably want to get that clymers so you can understand Chases jibberish. :biggrin:

That's pretty low for 18cc domes. You might warm it up as mentioned and give it a shot to see if it is a drastic difference, but I doubt it. You may be just looking at rings and a hone both cyls, or new topend and bore job depending on the wear.

Fuel cock..... LOL, Never heard that one before. :yelrotflmao:

Just wanted to put Crush on the good seller board. Bought some cylinders and pistons from him and everything looks good, and was delivered in a timely manner as promised.

I can't tell by the picture, are the haulers b2b's, sls's, just buffed to sidewall? And what kind of price can you give me if I buy the tires, lockup, and override?

Always need to cut the domes for a stroker(or run spacer plate). The 795's only compensate for the longrod. No longrod, regular pistons and cut domes.

Here is a pretty good article. http://forums.everything2stroke.com/articl...bout-pipes.html

Looks like a the drag section is going to get a lot better.

I still don't understand why they didn't at least try to ask for donations or at least give some heads up of the idea and get some feedback. I feel bad for you quick and all the other PS sponsors. I am sure you will find yours elswheres but what a mess.

I enjoy both sites for different reasons. All kind of a bummer to me.