2Smoker

Usually by doing a compression test it will tell you what your cylinders are running at. Anything below 100 pounds of compression I would pull the cylinder off and inspect it further. Maybe all you need is rings to fix the problem. YES!!! I got away with buying an engine glaze breaker and honing my cylinders everytime a piston blew up, and putting the same sized piston and rings in. This roughs up the cylinder and cleans it up without making the cylinders any bigger and allows the rings to seat properly. You have to do this or your rings won't seat. And you can do it yourself. If your cylinders are OK, just buy a glaze breaker (40 bucks or something) hone it out and clean the cylinders with soapy water and coat them in oil and youre all set to put the cylinders back on. You can buy a topend kit, i reccomend wiseco, it comes with a head gasket, 2 base gaskets and 2 pistons, 2 sets of rings, 2 wrist pins, and 2 sets of circlips, and o-rings for your pipes. That's all you need. If you don't know what size pistons to get then you don't know what your cylinders are bored out to. You will need a micrometer to see what your bore size is, any shop will have one and they can tell you what the bore size is. Stock bore is 64 MM and wiseco pistons come in a .20 thousandths of an inch increment (which is 0.5MM) so your first bore over would 64.5MM. Have a look here for a chart on bore size and CC displacement its sort of useful. Hope this answers your question.

A boost bottle is what seperates the men from the boys! I think it does f*ck all myself, I have the stock tube here I should take my boost bottle off and put the stock tube back on and see what kind of a difference it makes. But having a "boost bottle" just sounds so cool, like it has a turbo on it or a shot of nitrous.

This type of oil rocks check out this link... THE BEST MIXING OIL

I never did anything really, I got new bars and new grips, and when I put them on I wetted the handle bar end a very small amount with yes thats right spit, and then slid it on and it gets hard to put on and you just roll it on and mine are nice and toght. I never used solvents, I didnt think youre supposed to because it doesnt dry or something.

Yeah, thread the nut on and you might not f*ck it up as much, but I would order a new nut and bolt and just beat the hell out of it until it moves. I've read alot of horror stories about stuff seizing up where the swingarm bolt goes through.

I checked my plugs again today, its running lean all over I need more fuel to the warp drive scotty!!! Anyways I am picking up a 300 main and a 30 pilot tomorrow hopefully that'll fix things I will let you know. BTW - I checked compression tonight and I'm running 140 pounds on both cylinders almost perfectly the same.

I was at the drag races here last september and the 700 was a joke. Theres no reason a motor that big should be that slow. A stock z400 almost beat him. Just because it's a 700 doesn't mean jack shit.

Before I got my head shaved and bored out and ported i was running 140 km/h beside a friends motorcycle. Thats 86 MPH. Thats with a 13 tooth front and a 41 rear. Thats pinned right out for about 3/4 of a mile I had nothing left. I might drop a bigger front sprocket on mine now that I have the guts to pull it.

I picked up a dirtwheels this month and I just wasted my money. I seen maybe 3 or 4 banshees in the whole mag, the rest is 450 this and 450 that project 450 blah blah it makes me sick. I wish they would bring their project 450 up here on a dirt road I would like to smoke it and spin rocks all over it and break the headlights or something. Then maybe they'll start putting banshees in their mag.

I had the same problem this weekend on a friend's tri-z and used vice grips loosened the 4 screws no problem!

Mine is a 99 Bought used in May, all the problems that I had were caused by neglect and lack of knowing about 2 strokes. I would buy a clymer manual if I were you and follow the maintainence schedule in it, it helps alot. Clean your carbs often, and air filter, and you should be OK. The chassis on the banshee is bulletproof, lots of grease nipples everytheres to keep things lubed up.

I always take care of mine and it kills me when something breaks or just isn't right. Mine was broke for a month now and I just got it working last night, now i need to rejet and screw with that it never seems to end. A guy that lives around here has a new 450R and put a power up kit on it and he beat my friends stock shee quite badly, I can't wait to get mine jetted right and tear him a new asshole. 4 poke boys think they're the shit, time to school them.

165 main jet?? WTF?? A stock main jet is 200 (1987-89 is a 210) are you on crack?

Ok I had it out last night, my pilot jet needs to be bigger because I can't get to idle. If I choke it I can get it to idle sort of good, but as soon as I take the choke off it revs up really high and is really erratic, then it quits. I read that in the FAQ. I am going to screw with my settings today to see if I can't get it to idle witht he pilot jet I have. Other than the idiling, it was buring a tad to rich, so I moved the clip up one (down one from what it was before the engine was rebuilt) and I checked my plugs and its working awesome. I don't think I will have to change my main jets just my pilot jet.

That sucks man. I don't trust shops at all, I just bought a clymer manual and do all the work myself, except for taking the motor out and splitting the casing to take the crank out, I'm not really comfortable doing that yet, but I know a guy that owned 4 banshees and he does it cheap for me. Last time I took something to a shop was 3 years ago I has a dirtbike and got sprockets put on it and they never tightened the front sprocket on and i was going down the road wide open and the front sprocket flew off cracking the engine casing ruining the sprocket and runinig my brand new o-ring chain. I said never again!!!! Do it yourself.

That sucks, on those bikes at that speed one mistake and things are going to hurt. (or worse) I've lost a friend on a bike a few years ago, and I almost lost one this year on a CBR 600. He came pretty close to dying. We all do stupid shit on our bikes, but it only takes a split second for something bad to happen. But I'm not going to sit at home all the time because im scared of my bike or anything, I'd rather live a short eventful fun life than a long boring one.

That sucks, I'm just used to jumping on my bike and going on a tear I can leave from my backyard and go anywheres around here and I never have to pay to go riding. I guess some things you take for granted.

Yamalubes good shit if you don't wanna spend a ton of money, but mixing oil is cheap insurance. Don't be cheap because it doesn't pay when your crank bearings or something rolls over and dies. I use normal amsoil, not the really really expensive stuff, but there is another thread here about mixing oil and some people are mixing at 100:1 with really good oil.

Yeah, letting other people drive your stuff is a hard lesson to learn. I have invested so much time and money into my shee I could never let someone else drive it because if they fucked it up I don't know what I'd do.

Car - I've never really been around fast cars. Probably a little over 100 MPH my shee - 2 wheels - 65 MPH 4 wheels 87 MPH 1982 Honda 450 Nighthawk - 109 MPH wound out

Yeah, but how often do you drive it and for how long? I drive my shee 2 or 3 times a week for 30-60 mins at a time, usually putting 1 or 2 tanks of gas through it on a trip. With that much driving, I don't think it's wise to mix at 100:1. Maybe if youre just drag racing for 30 seconds...

Hey, My crank went, and while it was getting fixed I did my top end up. I have a dual stage air filter with a modified air box, I am running a 260 main jet, and I have FMF fatties with powercore 2 silencers and reed spacers. The top end was completely stock. The only thing I changed was I planed the head, had a good port job done and bored it out .20 over and put wiseco pro lites in. Now the guy that did the work said to drop the clip (raising the needle) one clip, but I took them apart last night and dropped it 2 spaces putting it as far to the bottom as the clip will go. I get the crank tomorrow and I am going to put the bike together tomorrow night. How much does dropping the clip change the jetting, and is 2 spaces too much? I know its hard to tell because the bike isnt running but i wanted to know how much of a difference moving the clip makes.

It's in the banshee manual that comes with the bike. I don't have it at my house right now, but i can pick it up tomorrow and tell you.

I would just check out the pistons and cylinders before you bore it out. they may be fine. In that case put new rings in just to be on the safe side and buy a clymer manual and take care of it and itll last you a long time. Its when you neglect to clean the carbs or something when youll lose a piston. If you really want to rebuild the top end and start fresh (i dont blame you), if you go with wiseco pistons i think they go in increments of .20 thousands of an inch. Wiseco makes a piston kit which includes everything you need EXCEPT WRIST PIN BEARINGS!!!! So you may want to put in new wrist pin bearings too, and the kit is pretty affordable. Get a good shop to bore it out and you should be all set. If you pipe it youll want to mod the airbox and put a jet kit in and run a bigger main. You will be like then then youll love it! good luck

Dude i hear ya! I was mixing at 40:1 with shit non-synthetic oil (yeah I know you don't even have to say it) and a rod bearing siezed. I just rebuilt the whole top end and i put a new crank in and that motor will never see anything BUT 24:1 amsoil. 100:1?? WTF! sounds like you might as well run straight gas in it.