FireHead

Is dissatisfied the word you were going for there? There is always secret option number three, which is don't use polished nuts. :woot:

The problem with a car battery charger for your application may be two fold. First off, a car battery charger puts out about 14.1 volts, not 12. Secondly, a car battery charger will not respond very well to large, frequent, fluctuations in load like you may be presenting it with. With regard to what to use for a motor, it really depends on what sort of fidelity you need to have for the control of the motor in addition to how variable you need the speed of the motor to be. If you need to accelerate and decelerate the motor to different speeds frequently, then a RC car motor and controller may be the most plausible solution. If you just need to start and stop the motor, operate at a constant speed, and do not need to control the accelleration or decelleration of the motor, then you may have many more options. :thumbsup:

That's hot, :cool:

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=routing This is the first thread where I didn't get much help. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=routing Here is the thread that I got worked up over nobody posting pictures. Apparently, I didn't start the thread like I said I did. http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html I found this while searching for the post with pictures. It's not what I was looking for, but it might help. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=overflow This is also not what I was looking for, but it has some neat art work in the thread. At the moment, I cannot find the thread with the pictures in it. I spent the better part of an hour searching, but all I came up with was the threads listed above. If you can't figure out what you need to out of those links, let me know and I will take some pictures for you. :thumbsup:

I think it is sort of a common sense thing. If I were to turn my common sense into words with out having a hose and clamp in front of me, I would say finger tight + 4 turns ought to do it. It seems to be that it would be really obvious if you were over or under tightening the clamp. If it wasn't tight enough then the joint may leak or the hose an d clamp will slide around. If it was too tight then the hose would look very obviously deformed. I hope that helps. I just re-read what I wrote and I am not sure if it will make sense to anyone besides me. :geek:

That's a good write up. :thumbsup: It takes a bit of thought to get a Pingel on right the first time and not have it leak. I wish I would remember that every time I get one of them. ::

There probably is, I just don't know what to tell you off the top of my head. Radio Shack was my first idea and Xantrex was my second idea. My company conjurrs most of that sort of stuff or selves if we need it. You may just need to go nuts on the internet and see what you can find. Iam not sure if the following places even have what you are looking for but it's worth a shot. www.omega.com www.grainger.com www.mcmastercarr.com www.mscindustrialsupply.com wwww.digikey.com

www.xantrex.com They distribute their products through a dealer network, so you will have to figure who the closest distributor to you is from their website. You may actually want to send Xantrex a direct email as they tend to give you free stuff itf it's for an educational application. Good luck! :thumbsup:

If you don't want to wait for pictures, if you search this forum you will find a couple threads that was started by me with all of the pictures you are looking for. I got sort of worked up that no one would post pictures of the hose routing in one of the threads. :ohmy:

The the billet impellers certainly will be more reliable than a stock, plastic impeller. As for increasing the cooling system's ability to cool, I would say that they certainly do a more efficienct job of pump coolant, but as for putting a number down to say how much cooling has improved, I cannot do that at this time.

I usually run VP U2, unless I need a higher octane fuel or can't get ahold of any U2. I sort of have a thing for fuels with oxygen additives in them. I can always blend in propylene oxide myself to some cheaper race gas, but I am generally to lazy to do that. Sunoco, Trick, and VP make good methanol as always and I have been known to go that directikon from time to time. :thumbsup:

I will file that away in my head for use later I suppose. I think there is a hole in the bottom of my mental filing cabinet though, because I sure seem to be losing alot of things lately.

Well it doesn't look like I need to worry about calling GRR to see if they can make pipes for my triple.

I think the auto trans, the Dodge put behind the 1st gen. diesel trucks had some serious longevity issues. None of that really matters though, as I looking to a get a new truck. :thumbsup:

It seems that each manufacturer has or have recently had some sort of issue with one of their transmission. I probably won't be working the truck very hard, so I might get away with not having any transmission porblems.

Preface: It all depends on what type our application of shock we are talking about. In fact, let's not even talk about this until we know the specific shock that we are going to be talking about. I have to go to a directors meeting here in a few miutes, but I'll be back on here later tonght. :cool:

You could have an air leak in the intake tract. That would cause it to go lean and not let the engine rpm drop very fast. :thumbsup:

That must be some freaky aircraft stripper that you got ahold of. Most of the time that stuff have has an acetone base and nylon or polyvinyl isn't usually solvent in acetone. I guess I learn something new every day.

Id anyone wants the dimensions and thread form of the stud let me know, and I will post it up this evening after I get home from work (I have to measure one that is at home in my garage). I think you could get the studs at Lowe's as well. :thumbsup:

It would be even luckier if I owned one personally. If I take one of the jobs I have been offered, a used HAAS mill and/or lathe are going on my shopping list after I buy a house. :thumbsup:

I would be interested in what the cooling system pressure for the Banshee is supppose to be. I am running the same OEM rad. cap just like you are. In fact, I think I have only seen an afrermarket cap once. I think PWR makes it. However, Fullbore used to make a fancy aluminum cap cover that is sort of neat looking. It's not neat enough looking for me to track one down or make one just to put an extra cosmetic part on my bike. If needed, I think I could probably guestimate the flow and pressure output from the water pump at a given rpm. I can't think of a way at the moment to determine the maximum cooling pressure unless it's written in the Clymer manual or you make a trial and error science project out of it.

I saw those the other day on eBay as well. If it were me buying new tires, I would just ignore those and buy from Skat Trak. In the whole scheme of things, tires just aren't expensive and tire is one of those things that could make you have a long walk through the dunes if they fail.

Yeah, that's sort of the way I am leaning right now. I am not sure that I will be able to decide on a transmission until I drove both trucks.

Not that I have to prove anything to you guys, but here is a picture of the carbs that I took right before they went in the box to be shipped when the auction ended.

So, check this out. UPS delivered the carbs back to me today (unexpectedly). They were broken just as the buyer claimed. The choke knob shaft was broken off and missing and the TORS Elminator cable adjusters were twisted off and one the nuts was from them was missing. They were certainly not like that when I sent them out. It is quite clear that the cable adjusters had been raped by a pair of pliers to the point of them getting stripped, twisting and breaking. I have no idea how the choke knob broke but the nut area on that looks like someone went after it with a set of pliers as well. It's pretty clear that the guy did this stuff himself (for reasons I can't figure out) and is trying to stick me with it. I am not wuite sure what to do at this point, other than wait for the guy contact me (I am not going to go out of my way to work this out with him). It's too bad that I left him positive feedback when he paid for the carbs, because I am certainly going to wind up getting negative feedback from the deal unless the guy waits too long to leave feedback. With the pictures that I have of the carbs before I sent them and the letter UPS is sending me I doubt Paypal will be able to do anything to me. Now, I just have to figure out what to do with the carbs if the guy doesn't contact me or screws me over in one way or another. I don't think that I am quite morally bankrupt enough yet to sell the carbs again after I repair them. Maybe I can give them away to someone on the HQ or something. What a fucking shitty deal this has turned out to be. ::