FireHead

I guess I am a little in the dark about what is actually modified on the Holley carbs. I know Demon had fotten into some patent issues with Holley awhile back. You can get as technical as you want. I was trying to make a joke when I said I wasn't much of a car guy. :ohmy: Whit regard to the case trenching (which is a silly term, but that is what folks use around here), there are several ways to do it. Most people use a die grinder with a carbide rotary burr or a cyclinder head porting tool (originally made for the jewelry industry) that is commonly made by Fordom (Foredom?) with a similair carbide burr to what you might put in a die grinder. Ipersonally use a 5-axis CNC mill, but I am an extreme exception. You can also get away with doingit on a 3-axis, CNC, vertical mill if you do the programing with CAM package. You should never have to line bore the cases unless you are fooling with the bearing pockets, which ypu shouldn't be if you're just trenching the cases for a stroker crankshaft. The trick wind up being that you generally have to remove enough material for a +10mm cranks that you break through the top case half behind the cylinder mounting surface. You then have to add material by welding (usually before you break through) or with epoxy. :thumbsup:

That'd a fairly decent analogy. I like it. I also agree with you. :thumbsup:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CakhmtOh3Q We finally are getting a bunch of the issues that the video above talks about put to rest. I still can't really talk about what went on. To add a little bit of a twist to the story, the NASCAR inspector the video refers to was just fired. :ohmy: It's pretty funny and I thought you guys might enjoy it. :woot:

If it were me I wouldn't bother. Whatever did that is probably gone by now. It could have easily been detonation that occurred when you overheated the bike. :shrug:

Someone on here ought to be able to hook you up with a flywheel for less than $100 already lightened. If it came down to it, I would probably be willing to lighten yours for free if you got it in my hands when I was adjusting mine for my triple. :thumbsup:

By George, I think you've go it done correctly. :thumbsup:

I think they sell that bumper in black. :thumbsup:

Trash = dirt or metal that foung it's way into the cylinder. :thumbsup:

There is some joint in Florida called Whitaker Racing that has done a few people's transmissions on here. I think they may have an auction for their services as well. Dave Moore among several others in Oregon does trans. work as does Rudy Kurtz (I think he's in Utah, but I am not sure off of the top of my head. I think there are several other folks that do the work as well, I just can't think of them right now. There are not that many folks out there that do really good quality transmission modifications out there. There are a few of us that do our own transmission work around here as well. :cool:

I think that is a fairly accurate description. If I may add a bit to this: octane boosters generally cause different results between RON and MON tests. Based on that, I think the octane boosters may be even less effective than the posted Prestone link eludes to. Besides what has been stated, the ultimate reason not to use them is that they are a band-aid type of solution. There are generally other chemicals in the octane booster that slow down the combustion flame front and various other things/ That basically nets, you unreliable perfomance at best, depending on what is present in the fuel they are mixed with. :geek:

I think that is either a Tag or a Roll/IMS bumper. I think I am about ready to ditch my AC bumper in favor of one of those. :thumbsup:

I may have asked this question before and it may have even been in this thread, but is the girl on the bike in you avatar naked?

I assume you are asking Dave the question, but I'll field an answer for you as well. With regard to the transmission on a Banshee, in stock form, the more horsepower you make, the more difficult they are to shift and/or simply use. There is some machine work to be done to help with this and some clutch part to be purchased. The added cost is just something that should be considered before whipping out the credit card and ordering cylinders. With regard to the swingarm, you will probably wind up needing a longer one. With that comes a new brake line, chain, and shock. If you still want to be able to jump the bike you probably shouldn't extend the swingarm more than four inches over stock. Depending on your power output, a shorter swingarm may make the bike a handful to ride. Some of the guys on here enjoy swingarms that are alot longer than I feel is probably necessary. So, I guess what i am getting at is that you may need to find someone near you who has a bike like you're looking to put together and see if they will let you come check it out. :thumbsup:

Out of curiousity, why are you planning on saving the flywheel? If you re-install the thing you will just a to repeat all the fun you are having right now, all over again.

No worries. I am kind of asshole, but I mean well. :woot:

I circumvented that problem by not reading it. :ohmy:

Do you mean the piston on the right of the photograph? It's either detonation or you had some dirt or something in there.

If you need more, let me know. I took several others.

Another.

Here is one of the pictures I took this evening with the filter off.

I am not sure how I feel about the spray on bed liner. It certainly must be heavier than paint on plastic or fiberglass, by quite a bit? It's definitely different. :thumbsup:

The issue with the new sleeves is that you have to usually bore the cylinder casting to install the larger sleeves, which is a pain, and then you have to port the casting after that. If you go for the sleeves that don't require the casting to be rebored (I am not sure if that type is available for the displacement he wants), I think the sleeve becomes to thin and you run the risk of many varieties of hot seizure because the sleeve doesn't have enough mass to properly disperse heat. :geek:

A cylinder block would be something like a set of Cheetah, T-Rex, or Cub Cylinders. You could get the aftermarket sleeves from Vito's, L.A. Sleeve, Superior Sleeve, or Trinity. The aftermarket cylinder block is the best value if you conider the performance you gain against time and money spent. :thumbsup:

Is what Wayne County Michigan? I realize the question isn't for me, but I don't get what you're asking.

You need aftermarket cylinder sleeves or an aftermarket cylinder block in addition to adding stroke to the crankshaft. I polodize if that isn't that helpful. I missed a large portion of this thread.