FireHead

I know where the hoses are supposed to go and I am not sure that I could figure it out from what you wrote there. I agree that it's a simple task, but I recall you asking the same questions awhile back. Obviously, I did the same thing based on all the links I posted in the previous thread on this topic. Not, to be an even bigger twat than I already am, but I also disagree about the coolant overflow bottle. :woot: As soon as I finish my sandwich and beer I will head out to the garage and take some pictures. I may have to avoid Bansh-eman driving over to my apartment to bitch slap me on the way, so it could take longer to get pictures. :yelrotflmao:

I should have guessed you would the a person who is a fan of octane booster. :woot: Atleast your using a type of octane booster than might be worth while. I half way expected to see you claiming NOS Octane booster was giving a 70 horsepower increase. :laugh: Back to the topic at hand, I recommend that a proper racing fuel is used before any one gets out the octane booster. :thumbsup:

If you don't have compelling reason to have to save this flywheel, then just got at it with a 3 jaw gear puller. You don't need an expensive puller, Harbor Freight quality will do. Or you can generally rent them from your local Napa (they may even let you borrow it for free if you bring you bike down to the store and pull the flywheel in their parking lot. :thumbsup: Another option would be to weld something to the flywheel to allow you to pull it off. That solution is a little more equipment intensive though.

For a $60 diffference I would just by new VF3's. :thumbsup:

I had one of the Nology boots do that on my last trip to Glamis. I sat around pissed off for most of a night because I had figured I lost compression or something, I went to load it in the back of truck the next morning (now the engine is at my eye level) and i can clearly see one of the boots was sitting higher than the other on the plug. It took a little bit of beer for me to forget about that whole episode. ::

If I were you, I would save the beer money and buy a crankshaft from someone like Twister. To add a bit of scale to this discussion, you don't see me offering to do the machine work for you, which I would do if it were an easy task. You will need to have your cases trenched /clearanced / machined (take you pick of terms) inorder to run anything larger than 4mm additional stroke. What sort of info are you looking for in regards to this? I hate to ask an off topic question, but what was the Demon tweak you were talking about in regards to Holley carbs? I apologize if it's a dumb question. I am not much of a car guy. :geek:

Did you make the grill yourself? Is your plastic Rhino Lined? I like the front bumper.

I'll get on it after I get home tonight and get something to eat. I ran my radiator dump hose on the top frame bar and then dropped it down behind the engine. I think you can see where it is going in one of the pictures that has my filters in it (the hose is the one coming from the left side of the frame). :thumbsup:

I really like the seat and, of course, I like the wheels. Can you post up a better picture of your grill? I can't really see what you have going on up there. :thumbsup:

With most incandescent lights, it doesn't matter which wire you hook to which lead as long as one wire is a ground and one is from a power source. Why do you not want to install a proper Banshee taillingt or after market taillight? Whatever you use make sure that it doesn't exceed the power consumption of the stock 194 light bulb. Without doing the math, I think that bulb probably draws around .5 amps. :thumbsup:

I agree with the price vs. quality statement. With fasteners, you get what you pay for. I don't have anyexperience buying "bolt kits" though. :thumbsup:

Do you want me to take my filters off and take a picture or two for you when I get home this evening (it will probably be around 7pm my time)? :thumbsup:

There is nothing wrong with a threewheeler. :thumbsup:

Except that Inland ATV is the same guy that is in2glamis on eBay and everyone knows the reputation behind that deal.

That forum is the equivalent of Bluetraxx for the pickup world.

I learned about what some of the issues/features are that are found in either truck. If you read past all the bs in that thread you can figure out which engine and trans. combos folks have and what people are doing to/with them. I also found out about the GM IFS tierod issue. Now I don't know if it is as bad as anyone said it was, but it is a starting point for me to learn more about it. :geek:

That is a good point they could be Power Pro in-frames. In fact I may change my guess to that. What pipes do Power Pro make for Trinity? I thought Trinity had their papies made by some stamping house up in NorCal?

If it were me and I didn't need the shock in question to keep my bike running, I would spend some time watching for another shock(s) on eBay as opposed to immediately coughing up the $125. With the YFZ shock to be shortened properly for the Banshee application, you pretty much need to shorten the shock body as it is not the shaft length that causes the problem. You could also make a taller piston bumper made of something like polyurethane and install it below the shock's piston. Either way, you would need to make a decision as to whether it was worth the time and effort compared to buying proper shocks from Works or another vendor. :thumbsup:

Adding or subtracting tension from the rear spring is done with the preload adjustment. Adding preload most certainly will raise the bike up some. I think you may have a seriously mistaken idea of what what preload is and how the adjustment of it effects things. All preload does is index the spring in relation to the shock. It does not increase the spring rate unless you put in so much preload that the spring's coils bind.

Plus, alot of people don't realize it, but you can put your weed in there. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Borrowing or stealing a camera may be an option. :geek:

I am not sure what year that color combo is from (I'd have to look it up). The seat is a custom cover that looks like it might be from Cascade. There is a full set of plastics with that color combo on eBay right now. :thumbsup:

See if you can get a better picture of them. I am not sure they are DG pipes. They look like they have weld seems that are idicative of a hand coning style of construction . They might be an old FTZ or LRD pipe. Can you email the seller and ask? :geek:

Just in case anyone thought I had lost my mind. Here is the link to a video of what I was talking about. :cool: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYpdRmbQzDY

If you are mostly competent as a back yard mechanic and you have a properly assembled water pump that you are replacing, I wouldn't think that you would need a manual or instructions. Maybe I am over estimating people, but I think it is pretty straight forward and doesn't require any special knowledge or tools. :thumbsup: