FireHead

It's probably not a big deal, you're right. I suppose I am used a more humid environment. Remember: on untreated ferrous metals the oils and moisture from your fingers can cause a part rust where you touched it very quickly even in SoCal (I am not allowed to touch crankshafts in our QC room anymore ).

What do you mean by "pressurizing going on somewhere?" Are you referring to the symptoms of a blown head gasket, for example? (I figured if I didn't understand than others might not either) :thumbsup:

I don't know that I would be lifting a GM if a bought one. I have not had the best experiences with lifted GM IFS vehicles. Is it safe to assume that the GM trucks that are at the dealer currently have this steering shaft shennanigans fixed?

I figure car salesmen are generally involved in the car buying process for my entertainment pleasure. I haven't met very many of them that I felt that I could actually respect. In fact, I can only think of one guy that I dealt with that I thought was a good, honest individual, that knew alot about his product line, and was good at his job. With regard to Toyota rolling a diesel engine out in the U.S., it will probably be more than a years wait. Toyota puts diesel engine in everything they sell outside of North America. If fact outside of North America Toyota is primarily a diesel engine company (as opposed to gasoline). The reason you don't see many Toyota diesels in North America is that there diesel engines were not thought to be able to meet our emissions standards (most recent reason). In fact, I am not sure they even tried to make any of their diesel engines meet emissions standards. They thought it was best to develop a gasoline engine line instead which I suppose is traditional Toyota behavior. I doubt Toyota was every looking at putting a Duramax (Isuzu) engine in their vehicles. In fact, in a different vehicle class market (Class 5 and 6 truck) Toyota (Hino) is a very large competitor of Isuzu. This just my own thoughts on the subject and I suppose stranger things have happened. I believe that Ford owns Cummins, but puts International engines in their light trucks all the while Dailmer Benz owns Detroit Diesel, but puts Cummins engines in their light trucks.

Yeah, I am within driving distance. I'll take it if you don't want it. Does it have a title with it? :thumbsup:

Mod Quad makes a fantastic product and their quality is usually unbeatable. I hadn't heard anything remotely bad about any thing they made before this. Plus, all of their stuff is made in America (Oregon specifically). :thumbsup:

From what I have seen, Mod Quad's machine shop isn't the best suited to make Banshee impellers. They are kind of a unique part that requires a failry expensive CNC lathe with live tooling or a relatively complex fixture in a CNC mill. While none of that is an excuse for making a substandard product, it may be an explanation. With regard to the seal wearing a groove in the impeller, I would bet it was the material the impeller was made of or a shaft tolerance issue, as opposed to the seal being bad. Seals can be bad right out of the box as they are a really high production item, but usually when they are defective in the manner you propose, they burn them self out very quickly and that is very evident by looking at it. A worn in groove from the seal is most commonly a material problem assuming the impeller is within spec. An incorrect material surface hardness or incorrect alloying of the material is a problem that occurrs alot syraight from the metal vendor. It seemslike it's something that is simple and stupid to have as a problem, but it happens to me all the time. I have had to send back or recycle whole truck loads of material because the batch coupon for the material didn't pass our inspection.

I am not sure why I am ever compelled to say anything during a Trinity discussion, but for some reason I have to. Preface: I have never had any work done by Trinity, nor have I ever bought anything from them over the phone or internet. What I have done is bought quite a few items from them in person. I have been completely satisfied with them based on those experiences. They have even gone out of there way to help me. I had an OEM timing plate fracture on my engine and I was being cheap and not wanting to buy a new one from RMATV or a used one from off eBay. I mentioned that I needed a plate one day when I was up there buying jets and alcohol. The guy behind the counter ran into the back and gave me a plate they had left over from a bike they had worked on and replaced with an adjustable plate. On another trip I made I mentioned some ding-dong idea I had that utilized a stock air box. I told the guy that I didn't have one and couldn't remember that last time I had one. The guy (different guy than the one that helped me with the timing plate) ran to the back and gave be an air box that looked to be brand new with Pro Design filter set up in it and the stock carb boots on it. They gave me both items free of charge and would not even accept any cash for them when I insisted on paying for the parts. Past that, there are a couple guys that work in phone sales and a couple counter/shop guys that are less than worthless. I have heard them give some really misleading or false advice when I have been there. This is a little of the subject at hand, but their particular industry lends itsself pretty well towards training CNC machinists and engine assemblers. Pro Circuit, Yoshimura, FMF, Trinity, etc. have several of these aforementioned types of folks working for them and my company tends to winds up trying to steal the good ones. I currently do not have anyone from Trinity working for that I know of, but I have a had acouple guys in the past and they were very skilled and knowledgeable. Maybe they are an exception rather than a standard, but it does indicate to me that Trinity does good work sometimes. My personal belief is that Trinity is only as retarded as their customers. It just happens that they have alot of customers that are dumber than a box of rocks (example: the guy BigRed350x met at KP).

I appreciate the advice and help. I think my first maneuver will be to get out and drive some trucks pretty informally. I would rather hear from a mechanic than a sales guy any day. With the intermediate shaft that you speak of is that between the steering column and steering box or is it the tie rod from the chassis pivot point and the steering knuckle. I will special order a new truck before I settle for something off the lot that doesn't have what I want on it. I get a screaming deal on Toyota vehicles due to where I work. I think the associate lease deal for a Tundra is like $140/month including full coverage insurance through the company. I ahve not ever looked into buying a car through my company, but if I get that kind of deal on a lease, I am sure that I would get just as good of deal buying a vehicle. I really don't want a gas vehicle. A sensible vehicle for me would be a mid-size to 1/2 ton truck. I am kind of throwing sensibility out the window on this time around because I want a new toy. As for dealing with the car salesmen, I heard a new line at the track this weekend that I have been anxious to use on some one since I heard it. The context that it was used in was someone making an excuse to not sit down. The line is: "I would love to sit down, but I think I just popped out a hemorrhoid. Could you help me tuck it back in?" That ought to make a salesman wan't to get away from me as wuick as possible. :yelrotflmao:

I would say that your main jet is way rich. The stock'ish motor that I have on my shelf with a prrty mild port job, 17cc dome'ed cool head, VF3 reeds, 30mm bored out stock carbs, Dyna ignition with a custom map, and CPI in-frame pipes only needed a 350 main at sea level, but it also needed a 32.5 pilot. Every motor is different, obviously, and you will certainly need to due some experimentation and plug chop work. If you posted pictures of your plugs after a plug chop, we will probably be able to help you even further. Your paddles suck for an application such as a Banshee. With all that said, your overheating could still be caused by jetting. Just because your main jet is too big, doesn't mean that one of your other circuits is set to be too lean. Like I said above, I needed another size up on the pilot jet. I am not sure about your needle setting. What kind of shape is your coolant in? Have you run the bike with the radiator cap off to make sure that the water pump impeller hasn't taken a dump on you? Do you have a good feeling that you radiator cap is holding pressure?

I new GM front suspension hasn't had much of a reputation for longevity or being able to hold an alignment as the trucks accumulate higher mileage. I could all be a bunch of crap though as I don't have any recent experience with GM trucks. It may just be a myth that has spread across the internet based on all of the difficulty GM had in the late '90's with their IFS. I may take you up on the offer to come look at GM trucks. I am certainly not ruling them out yet.

Yeah, I think the 6.7 Cummins is probably the engine that I would be looking at getting in a Dodge truck. I have pretty much decided on a super cab w/ doors or a drew cab and a short bed. I need to get out to a couple dealerships and drive some trucks. I am not sure that I want to deal with the GM front suspension.

I have always either made my own or used the Pro Design parts. What is the issue with the Mod Quad impellers? Do they have burrs or some other type of manufacturing left-overs on them? :geek:

I remember the name, but I don't remember much about the guy.

No worries. I understand what you guys can and can't talk about. The new OPSEC regs. that DOD has out there basically doesn't allow you to talk about non-classified information such as websites if it has anything remotely to do with what you are working on. I can appreciate you tryin to simplify the information you were presenting as I forget to do that from time to time. It actually sounds like you have a pretty good grasp of the subject matter that we are talking about. As I said before, I made several assumptions when I worked out what a theoretical boundary layer might be across a the feature in question. There have been many different attempts to sort out even intake charge distribution across cylinders in a V style engine. So of them were actually fairly insane. The old standard of having one injector and one throttle blade per cylinder is still the best way of doing it as far as a high rpm, naturally apirated race engine is concerned. Direct injection is the latest attempt and it certainly works well (better in diesels), but it currently has several emissions related draw backs with small gasoline engines. :thumbsup:

Yeah, my pipes were quite a bit different than Power Pros if you held them in your hand (i.e. they didn't feel like a pop can, the chrome wasn't peeling off, and the mounts had more "strap" area on them so they didn't break off). It makes me wonder a little bit about how Power Pros came up with the design of their pipes. :ermm: I agree, based on my experience with making pipes that performed terribly, that the person who ran those pipes would have probably been better of with stock pipes.

Alright, just let me know. I am not in any hurry to have more crap for visitors to play in my office.

Did I mention that I am probably a car salesman's worst nightmare. (I have perfect credit and more than enough financial means to buy a vehicle, but all I ask are technical questions and I am cheap as hell.)

That is about all of the information that I was able to find on the feature. I am curious as to how they are controlling the torque converter and shifting as it seem that what they describe would make a huge about of heat in the transmission. Additionally, are they throttling the intake air at the same time as what they say the transmission is doing? If they aren't, I can't see how a diesel engine of that size would provide enough resistive force to slow a vehicle down very much. I mean it certainly won't hurt anything, but I have a hard time comparing it's performance with an exhasut brake. :geek:

The near mach 1 intake charge speed is pretty standard as an assumption in the automotive industry. Intake charge pressure is directly related to the intake charge speed and vice versa. You'll have to excuse me if this sounds rude, but I hear "defense contracor'ish" statements alot when we are interviewing folks, and the ones that disagree with you and cannot tell you why because it's secret are usually full of crap. I am not saying that you are full of crap, but depending on who you are taling to you may wind up coming off that way even if you are 100% correct. :thumbsup: Tumble is a term used when discussing pretty much all internal combustion engines. With reed induction two stroke engine, there isn't so much of a push-pull effect, but there is a pull-stall effect. I know what you are getting at and I think that I agree with you You are correct that there are a few other assumptions that need to be made in order to calculate the thickness of a boundary layer, but intake speed has the greatest influence on the end result out of the assumptions that I made. Other than that, I think I agree with pretty much everything else you stated. :woot:

I need a new office ornament if you want to get rid of the one good YFZ shock and it's in good shape cosmetically. :geek:

Sure. I think that there are alot of places that could sell them to him. Cascade, Redline, K&T, etc.

It's pretty safe to say that they are not aluminum. They might be a non-ferrous stainless steel, but I doubt it. :thumbsup:

Eibach makes a spring that should work for you. I can't emember the part number, but you can get it from their website. As Bansh-eman says, you will also need to get the shock revalved.