FireHead

If you fish around in that water jacket with a 90 degree dental pick I bet you will get it. I would take a shot at that before a went to all the trouble of taking off a cylinder. You may also try standing the bike on it's and seeing if the o-ring falls out with the coolant that runs out. :thumbsup:

I think the new Dodge trucks are probably the better looking trucks of the group. I am not sure if I want a manual trans. or not as I am afraid that I might get tired of shifting it and/or wear out the clutch in SoCal traffic. :wink:

I find myself spending more time on the HQ latley while I am on the phone at work. From a professional stand point, I have basically been using the HQ for typing practice. Ever since I broke my hand while testing a vehicle in 2002 my typing has basically degraded to 40 or so words per mintue and recently that started to bother me. Besides, I always wish that people add as much detail as relevant to any technical conversation and I certainly know how frustrating it is not to see the whole technical picture. So, hopefully people enjoy my posts and aren't burdened by having to read too much. As a side note, if I change jobs here in the near future (which may take me out of racing), I may finally take some people up on there request to have me write a column for a magazine once a month or so. If nothing else, I have been putting off writing a couple papers for the SAE that I probably need to work on. Either way, that is my plan to keep in touch with racing and to stroke my ego a bit if Ileave the racing industr and certainly would not be very successful doing that sort of writing at 40wpm. The trick with running just water in an engine is that it doesn't benefit from the raising of the coolant's boiling point or degassing of the coolant that is afforded by running some sort of antifreeze. If you do run straight water then you may want to look into creating a higher pressure cooling system as that will also raise the water's boiling point (I have no idea what the maximum pressure the Banshee cooling system can support or what pressure the water pump can produce. There are obviously several limitations to be found there). Last but not least, just because you are running alcohol should not mean that your engine will cumulatively run cooler. While alcohol does make an engine run cooler, it also affords you the ability to run higher compression, higher rpm's, andget more fuel into the combustion process than you would be able to with a petroleum based fuel. The net effect is that even though alcohol is a cooler burning fuel, if you take advantage of it's characteristics you will reject more heat and thus run in the same temperature range as you would be if you were running gasoline. In other words, the only way alcohol makes an engine run cooler than gas is if you were switch fuels without doing anything else. :geek:

To reinforce what I said earlier, I use the 4mm and .125" tool for finishing only. I go after the intake and exhaust with endmills that are around .5" in dia. to rough the areas out. The largest tool that I can get away with in the transfers is 8mm in dia. This is all in respect to stock cylinders of course. :thumbsup:

Obviously, each track and race sanctioning body have their own sets of rules. From my experience the coolant rules always seem to similair. The two common coolant related rules usually are to disallow the use of ethylene glycol and to enforce the use of a recovery tank. I cannot speak intelligently about the reason for not allowing ethylene glycol based coolant, but I would guess that it's environmental as ehtylene glycol is the chemical in coolant that kills your pets if they drink it. The spirit of the rule for requiring a coolant catch can is fairly straight forward in that water on the track with rubber worn into it = slippery as ice. Furthermore, you should be able to run something like Redline's Water Wetter in you cooling system, or one of the organic coolants as they do not contain ethylene glycol. On all of our pavement based race series we run a coolant that is proprietary to us. Somebody told me that our company in Japan developed it, but that could all be bs. All I know is it comes in relatively unmarked drums from Japan, and it looks and smell funny. :ermm:

I am one of the guys that runs the recovery tank on the front of the bike. I think the rule at a formal drag strip is not that you have to rune pure water, but that you can't run anything with ethylene glycol in it. Correct me if I am wrong. :geek:

Let me borrow one of them, so then we can race. :woot:

This probably won't help you, but I''l post it any way. When doing port work on stock Banshee cylinders, my weapons of choice for finishing operations are a 4mm dia. ball endmill, a 4mm diameter bull endmill, and a .125" dia. lollypop endmill. All of the tooling is made of TiAln coated K30 carbide. The reason I say the info might not be useful to you is that I do my porting on a 5-axis CNC mill. For doing the cylinder block of my own design, I am using quite a few more tools of similair style and dimension. :geek:

That reminds me: I think the parts that we are talking about are technically called "torque stays," not engine mounts. :geek:

You could probably have the same sort of relationship with the recreational use of Viagra. :woot:

I just replied back you. I think what I wrote is still quoted in the message body. :ermm:

Damn you're needy. I sent you a PM. If it makes any sense maybe you can toss what I worte in this thread. :thumbsup:

I am not really worried about anything with the Dodge trucks except for the transmission. The new Fords are probably ok, but they have been notorius for having weird engine problems for awhile when they release a new model. The 6.4 lter engine will definitely be the "highest tech" diesel engine in the light truck market when it comes out. Ford has had some shitty transmission in their trucks in the past (it seems like it all went downhill, with regards to reliability and longevity, when the C6 was restired). If you ever have any questions about engine design or technology give me a shout. :thumbsup:

Aircraft stripper will not take off powder coating. :thumbsup:

I agree. Take it to a sand or media blaster. Depending on where you are it will probably run you anywhere from a case of beer to $200. :thumbsup:

If it is the hose that is about .25" i.d. then it is the vent / overflow line. If it's leaking just a little bit it's probably because the hose is cracked or something. If it's leaking alot, then you have another problem. :thumbsup:

That's exactly what I was thinking. :thumbsup:

I am apparently still upset that I cannot buy hookers with my roosts. :mad:

I think those two options are equally as good. What it may come down to is who has a better lead time and who gives you better customer service. I had had crappy telephone based customer service from both places. However, I can drive to TCS, and is person they were superb. :thumbsup:

I got some shiny chrome ones off eBay for around $10 once upon a time. :cool:

The crappy thing about the way the drain screws are in there is that if you drain any solid out of the bowl, then some of them get stuck around the screw, and all of a sudden it doesn't seal properly. :shoothead:

The only thing I see as being a real problem that may surface with all of the new emissions eequipment is that catalyst or particulate traps may not last as long as they are supposed to. A used up particulate trap could very well cost an owner a few thousand dollars to properly (they are considered hazardous waste, just like the exhaust filters on the dynos at my work) dispose of it if the dealer doesn't cover it under warranty.

I wouldn't put silicon on it. I would just dab some grease on there so that o-ring doesn't tear during assembly. You shouldn't need silicon on that joint unless the tube is deformed or something along thise lines. Yeah, the area should be clear of debris. :thumbsup:

Hey, you're the one that started a thread about nut polishing. :laugh:

The nipples on the bottom are bowl drains. There is a phillips head screw that acts as a valve for them on each bowl. The hoses that are coming out of the barrel of the carb are bowl vents. If you have fuel coming out them, you need to be looking at the needle valve and seat attached to the float. There is also a single hose that connect to each carb in between the two. It is the choke crossover. :thumbsup: