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Everything posted by FireHead
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I couldn't sleep, so I got up and finished reading that thread. I learned several things about the new engines and transmissions, especially the Dodges. I also learned that there are a bunch of douche bags that post on that forum. There were several people that were blatantly making things up and what was worse, people were agreeing with them. I am pretty sure I could go over there and post something ridiculous, like sticking a dead fish under your drivers seat gives you 100hp in Dodge trucks only, and somebody would probably agree with me. In fact, they might even go so far as claiming that it was either themselves or some guy they know that works at a dealership are the people that invented it. You would probably get another couple guys that produce dyno sheets proving that it works and then following it up by saying that the dyno was stingy and it actually makes 130hp. :: :shoothead:
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I need help running these radiator hoses and vent tubes
FireHead replied to 96_banshee_96's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
For future reference, there is a lot of information that was accumulated here before a new thread was started: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=75312 -
Pro Design impeller installation help
FireHead replied to NE-Shee's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
You should get a Clymer manual as was suggested. I think Pro Design used to have instructions for some of there stuff on their website, but I cannot seem to get on it to check right now. -
Nobody liked my boost bottle joke............. :sad:
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I don't know how you are going to hold .0005" across all four webs, but I learn something new every day. I just realized you were in San Diego, if you need help or get in a bind with this project, give me a shout. There is a guy in our engine shop that can group piston by weight just by picking them up. Most the time he is right within a tenth of a gram. Our QC dept. are the folks that actually do the component matching, but the weighing by hand thing is a damn cool bar trick. I am not sure why I just told that story.............it's not really the same thing as holding a tolerance on a true position dimension. :shoothead:
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I would volunteer Dave (dajogejr) to help you, but my knowledge of the location of cities in MI is right up there with my knowledge of women. I am not sure if Detroit is close to you or not. :thumbsup: Like I said before, if it tomorrow night comes and you don't have this done yet, I'll go pull my filters off and you'll be able to see the whole thing (including the T fitting). :thumbsup:
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You might as well have Adam Sandler's character from the movie The Hot Chick describe what a boost bottle is good for. :laugh:
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I am reading it right now. Thanks.
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And another................ If you need more give me a shout. With regards to the T fitting the line from the clutch cover by the water pump meet the line coming from under the rear motor mount right in between the aire filter (on my rad bike) then one line continues up to the top frame rail and loops back down through the wire loom (metal wire clip deal attached the rear, right side, of the top engine case) and hangs freely past that about even with the bottom of the frame. :thumbsup: I am going to be pissed if you don't try and do this yourself before you take it to the dealer. :ohmy:
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I see, we are talking about transmission breather lines. I'm an idiot. It's a good thing I just went back out to the garage and took more pictures (of the correct lines this time).
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If those aren't what you were looking for pictures of, what were you looking for pictures of? You can look at this picture while you think about it. :cool:
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Here is my current bike. The coolant system and hose routing is the same as on the bike in the previous pictures.
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I found this picture of an old bike that is probably more helpful than any picture I took tonight. Notice the classic statement on the white board in the background.
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The backwards spelling is the unfotunate side effect of making the my signature look better (mirriored that engine). Dinner made it for me. I kinda like it. :smile: If there is any interest for those who don't know what or who Sandvik is: www.sandvik.com
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I like the silencers moved to the center of the frame. I don't like the no back plastic look. :thumbsup:
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You got a great deal if they are in good shape. I think those go for about $200 new. :thumbsup:
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Moses lake doesn't usually get a dunes that are large enough to grow dangerous razor backs. I mean there are some, but nothing that will kill you. The dunes there are more like four sided table top jumps than anything else. On a busy weekend or if they have had rain there the week before the sand will get really chopped up.
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That's just fantastic. I wonder what happened.
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If you post a picture of what you have, I can probably explain the best way to shorten it. I am still a little in the dark as to why it needs to be shortened.
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I am leaving work and heading for home in a couple minutes. Let me know if you want me to take pictures when I get there. :thumbsup:
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I was wondering why no one had said anything about that yet. I figured either everybody missed it or y'all were busy emailing Lee to have me kicked off here for being a sick bastard. :biggrin:
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Just so we're on the same page, I know you were being general and I was just flipping you shit. :thumbsup: The particular Sandvik head that I was speaking of cost around $4500 for the head and another $1000 for the HSK63A back end. I should also clarify that the bar belongs to my company and not me. Of course that is just for a bar that has a 10mm dia. range of adjustment that covers the size of a Banshee pin dia. When I bought that particular boring set up I also purchase heads an back ends to cover a bore from 5mm dia. to 6" in dia. in various depths and increments. Including inserts and such I think the P.O. I signed was about $100k. 1 micron true position is easily reapeatable witha good mill, probe, tooling, fixture, and operator. The secret (not really a secret) to our success with holes of this tolerance is in our probing routines. Even with a hole bored to that tolerance, you probably still need to jig grind the hole to get a good surface finish, to facilitate the best press fit, and eliminate any taper. Like you said, 1 micron is tough stuff, even if you grind the bored hole. If you look in my signature you might be able to guess what I do for a living or atleast who I work for. :thumbsup:
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You obviously haven't been to Los Angeles lately. There are alot of people that go both ways there. That might have been funnier in my head. Oh well, it's nice to have a very small waiting room for one's thoughts.

