FireHead

If this is in regard to a YFZ450 shock you probably need to pose the question to gimmeeabeer as I haven't seen the inside of one of those shocks yet. If you want to talk about shortening shocks in general, there are many ways to do it. It depends on what shock you want to shorten and for what application. :thumbsup:

I got it, I just didn't want to keep it. :woot:

The ID grinding is what I was getting at with my jig grinding statement in my previous post. 10 microns true position is usually what I will wind up with for a tolerance if I am recreationally making a Banshee crank. I could probably do better, but I'm lazy. I disagree that a CNC mill is 100% necessary to get this project done, but it does give you a much better chance of creating a good crankshaft. Furthermore, if what you say is true about your boring heads, you need to buy a better boring head(s). My Sandvik heads repeat to 1 micron. As you point out a constant 20 degree celsius is a must for accurate machining of steel like we are talking about, as well as control of humidity and temperature. As you say, welding the crank is only done to preserve the press fit. There seem to be a current of folks on the HQ that like to disagree with me on this. For what reason I have no idea, but they usually cite a source such as some undisclosed big name builder told them so or they heard it from their sister's(actually mother) boyfriend (actually brother).

Most of all the recent horsepower and torque figures that are published by the manufacturer are a product of the looming EPA regulations. I don't think it is worth trying compare numbers from that type of source at the moment.

I can undertand the land owner's position. I don't know what it is about Washington, but the dune areas there seem to attract a much higher percentage of idiots then California or Oregon.

There is something wrong with both of you. Arguing back and forth over this like you have been doing is roughly equivalent to retards trying to have sex. The only thing that is going to come out of this is a bunch of noise and possibly an abortion. :shoothead:

I am actually thinking about getting an auto trans. as I think I will be going through clutches fairly quickly and having to shift all the time in the homo SoCal traffic. :ermm:

You can snage the Mukuni boots from Sudco as was said previously or Mod Quad has them if you call them. Mod Quad is there I buy the the manifolds from when I am making my own intakes. :thumbsup:

Make sure to take some pictures of the place. I am anxious to see what it looks like. :thumbsup:

Yeah, that's not right. Yamaha never put any aluminum fasteners on a Banshee.

You can hold the webs in a set of prismatic vice jaws and support it with a set of parallels. Pressing the crank together shouldn't need a special fixture if you take your time doing it and measure the distance between the thrust pads on the webs as you go. Your problem is going to be that once you have machined the first web, you will have dial indicate in all of the subsequent parts. There are many ways to do this, but the least difficult methods are also the least accurate (example: a coaxial dial indicator is only good for +/-.001" no matter what its rated for). Now you could make a fixture with a center and a dowl pin on it to take any positional variance acroos the four parts out of the equation, but that requires adding a small manufacturing feature to all of the webs and you may wind up being just as accurate doing that as you were if you dialed each part in individually. Either way it's alot of work. The forgings are a mixed blessing because of all this in this particular application. It actually takes alot less time if you are making small quantities of thi type of crankshaft to make the webs from billet. If you have access to a CNC mill, it also winds up being cheaper to do if you convert hours spent working to dollars. :geek:

I agree with your regarding how all the engines compare to each other. I started this thread simply because I had become very out of touch with what was offered and what was good or bad about the trucks that are currently for sale. The 6.4 Ford is definitely the highest tech. light truck diesel on the market right now. :thumbsup: This is completely off the subject, but is the lady in your avatar picture naked?

Putting more preload on the rear spring won't help. All that does is adjust the ride height. I suppose if you tightened the spring to the point of having the spring coil bind when it hits a bump then it might make a difference, but I wouldn't do that unless you hate your lower back and kidneys.

After spending a large amount of time looking for the thread with the pictures in it, I came to the conclusion that the thread either got deleted some how during one of the forum upgrades, or the pictures were in a thread about something else. I will take pictures of my bike when I get home. I must warn you that I have my coolant bottle moved to the front of my bike, so all of the hose routing is going to be pretty far from normal. They all connect to the proper locations, the lines are routed different than stock. Let me know if that is ok with you so I don't spend a bunch of time taking pictures that I don't need to. :thumbsup:

I was hoping that someone else would be the person to pee on the parade here, but I guess it's going to be me. Machining the pin bore for one web on a manual mill with a DRO is one thing, but doing all four webs and maintaining a reasonable tolerance on the true position of the hole across all the webs is not going to be easy. If there is grinding that is required anywhere inorder to put that crankshaft together, it is going to be that much harder to do with manual equipment. I would say the bored pin holes would benefit from being jig ground, but I don't think it's 100% necessary. Beyond that, if grinding is required on any of the bearing surfaces you are probably going to need to have thos particular parts nitrided. I am not trying to discourage anyone here, but I really think that you need to know what you are getting yourself into. If I were to make up a number, i would say that 99.5% of the HQ membership to not have the ability or skill set to do this sort of machine work. I am not trying to be an elitist wank, but I think that needed to be thrown out there to help bound this discussion. If, after all that, you want to give this project a try, then I think it's a great project. If you have the means competently complete this project then you will certainly save alot of money. If needed I will be happy to help you in anyway that I can. I would be willing to put together a list of instructions for anyone who wanted to give this a try. :geek:

The dimensions on the pin holes should be such that they support a heavy interference fit which should be about .002"-.003". Using a boring head is really the only appropriate tool for this type of operation. You should TIG weld the pins to the webs.

You were paying more attention than I was, obviously. I didn't see that the inner webs did not have the holes for the pins in them. It does look like the snout and flange webs have pin holes in them. I am not sure what the deal with that is? Do you see any other machine work that needs to be done?

Moses lake is fantastic as far as dunes in WA go. The big weekends are alot of fun, but a few people always wind up getting killed. The sand in Moses is a bit differet that other places because it was a dumping place for the ash from Mt St. Helens when it was cleaned up after the eruption. Plus, Moses is an actual dune are that is very large compared to Beverly. I never really considered Beverly a dune are because the ratio of sand to dirt and rocks is pretty low.

Wow! i lived in WA for 22 years and no one ever told me about that place. I even have some extended family that lives in Pasco, whom I know I have talked to about ATV's and they never said a dman thing about it. I am actually a little bit upset about that. :mad:

My red bike in my signature has a +4 arm with an Eibach spring and was revalved by TCS. I ran the +4 arm on that bike for awhile with out doing anything to the shock. I ride primarily in the dunes so I was able to get away with that for awhile. The poor ride was starting to wear on me so I finally broke down and bought the Eibach spring from Cascade. I rode the bike for over a year with it like that. One day, I had to drive out to Lake Elsinore, CA (where TCS is located) for something else and decided that it would be dumb if I didn'y drop my shock off out there to have it revalved since I was going to be out there any way. I am very happy with the improvement in ride quality the valving made and I wished I would have taken care of it sooner, but if you're young and your back doesn't bother you, you can probably hold off revalving the shock for a long time. :thumbsup:

I got your point the first time. I was just checking to make sure that you weren't going through some sort of masochistic phase. :ninja:

Yeah you should be able to get by with just the Eibach spring for awhile. I think the spring is arounf $100 from Cascade. IMO with a +4 arm, the spring is about 80% percent of the total solution and the reamaining 20% is valving and shock condition. :thumbsup:

I am curious as to what machining is required with that kit of parts? Once you get that question answered, I can walk you through the rest or the process. I may have made a crankshaft or two when I was younger. :woot:

It seems that none of my friends use AOL Instant Messenger any more, so I canned that. I do have the MSN messenger though and you can get ahold of me via my email address [email protected] . Thank you, drive through. :wink:

I am pretty sure that you can't buy a good shock for that much. I think an inexpensive rear shock from Works is like $600.