FireHead

That could be. I didn't think about that. It seems to me that I have a suspension geometry cartoon around here somewhere, I'll see if I can find it. I think Chainsaw may be a member on threewheeler website that I used to spend some time at. If it's the same guy, he knows a fair amount about threewheelers, especially Tri-Z's. What doesn't make sense to me is how you could possibly not have a ton of toe-in under bump. The inboard steering points don't appear to be modified. Thus, when you move the pivots out, even if you put longer steering arms on, the steering arms are still out of plane with the lower a-arm. I also think this setup may give you a ton of camber gain/loss in roll.

Pro Design or one that I made myself. :geek:

I know......I am off to punish myself now.

I apologize as well. I'm an asshole. :thumbsup:

I think the point that a few people are trying to get across to you is that for near the same price, you can get a proper a-arm setup. From a suspension geometry point of view, you would be better off with wheel spacers (I don't like them either from an engineering stand point) instead of that kit. I don't think anyone will argue with you that the Banshee doesn't have the best suspension geometry from the factory, but all this kkit you have does is exacerbate the problems. If you wouldn't mind, take some pictures of the kit on your bike. Either I am missing something or you are full of poo about the lack of bump steer. :thumbsup:

On rough days I will run up to 10psi in my front tires and get down to around 3psi in the rear. I have found when it is rough and you let more air out of the fronts the more the bike is tossed around. Letting a little air out of the back put more of the paddle profile in the sand, which may not make it smoother but it will get you a little better taction in rutted up conditions. :geek:

I agree 100%. I have bought parts from NYUK a few years back and they were always better than I expected and arrived sooner than I expected. He has owned and parted out more Banshees than most of us on here ever will. He's a good guy to be digital friends with. :thumbsup:

I think you actually have to buy this kit to qualify yourself to put 24" wheels on your bike.

Good fastener manufacturers are hard to come by sometimes. It may not be the guy who is assembling the bolt kits fault. QC is all over the place with fasteners, especially if they are made overseas. :geek:

You shouldn't need to rejet when moving from VF2' to VF3's. :thumbsup:

I am pretty sure NYUK is a good guy. :thumbsup:

Are you not supposed to do that? :wink:

You don't want brass bushings, what you are looking for are bronze oillite bushings. You can get them from Cascade, JL ATV, eBay, and I am sure other places. I personally make my own. :thumbsup: The advantage is that the metal bushings will last alot longer and help the suspension move more accurately and with less resistance.

I wasn't saying that Motul wasn't good oil, I just wanted to make sure that no one thought that it completely eliminated coking. Any natural castor based oil will create alot more carbon-carbon deposits than a synthetic oil will. :beer:

I like to sign up my neighbor (the one that parks his car in front of my garage) for stuff like that. :ohmy:

If I were buying a new diesel truck 4 years ago, I would be buying a Duramax without question, but now because GM changed the body style I don't find the truck as appealing. Now, I don't really find any of the body styles that appealing, so it's going to come down to the drivetrain for me to make my decision. :ermm:

I think the lift pump is going to be a wear/service item on any diesel truck that you get no matter who made it. I think the newer vehicles will show a check engine light if pressure to the injector system drops to a certain pressure. If you get the truck fixed for $150 in parts, I think your probably doing pretty well. :thumbsup:

It's pretty hard not to realize that you bought crap when it sits there and smells all the time. :ohmy:

We lost everything from pistons to rods to crankshafts. All of our nitromethane work has been in support of teams in a couple of NHRA race classes. Nitromethane will auto ignite if you have even the smallest hot spot in the path of the intake charge. You also wind up some interesting exhaust fires after you lose a cylinder. We haven't done any work with NO that I have ever heard about, but then again I havonly been at my current job for three years. I am not sure how NO would perform versus nitromethane in a large format engine like we were working on. :geek:

Thermal barrier coatings can be very helpful. We use a variety of them depending on whats allowed in a given race series and/or where there is a noticeable performance benefit. The most common areas that we coat are the under side of the piston, the inside of exhaust components/turbos, and oil control compnents. I haven't run nitromethane in any oy Banshee engines yet for the same reasons that I am not running alcohol at the moment (it takes too much effort). We have had to run it at work for a few different projects. It's quite a different animal. Nitro reacts veyr differnetly than any other fuel to changes in combustion pressures among other things. If you are developing an engine to run on nitro you need to make sure that you have alot of extra rotating assemblies on hand.

Why would I spend money to buy shit. If someone gave them to me I wouldn't use them. You are clearly not telling the truth if you same that you have less bump steer now than you did before you installed the kit. It is absolutely geometrically impossible. If you don't know what you are talking about, then just don't say anything. It's pretty simple concept. At the very minimum, if you do that you may be able to avoid being a feature in the Darwin awards. :shoothead:

That's a nice thought, but with all the weird stuff that people put on their ORV's, you have to wonder. The people who make and sell the stuff have to be selling some product otherwise they wouldn't still be in business.

Congratulations! The smoking until it warms up is perfectly normal. :thumbsup:

When I was screwing around monitoring a Banshee ening cooling circuit on a dyno I had thermocouples on the head at the coolant inlet and outlet, one over each cylinder, the water pump, under each cyclinder on the engine case, and at the base of each cooling jacket. Since I was on an engine dyno, I was running the house cooling system and not a Banshee radiator. Even with the house cooling system, engine still ran hot and had a very uneven heat rejection plume across the cylinders (the dyno cells also have heat sensitive IR cameras in them). As eluded to by Blowit, a spark ignited, gasoline fueled, engine performs at it's best on the verge of detonation and thermal run away. In other words, the engine is at it's best right before it blows up. The most intersting thing that I have learned with regard to heat management of two stroke engines is that with in reason it doesn't matter what the cooling system of the engine is doing as long as it keeps the engine from auto igniting, seizing, or similair. What does make a huge difference in power out put is the temperature at which you keep the crank chamber. As a general rule, the cooler the crank chamber is kept with the rest of the engine at normal operating temperature, the more power you will make. :geek:

This is absolutely the only case where wheel spacers are better than something. :thumbsup: