Banshee~

you have alot of class dont you?

Bump! post pics (when you get a chance)of the red lines. Do they half way match the '04 frames?

The stock filter is the biggest POS. A k&n filter was my first mod!

What mods do you have? My bro is getting a 06 r when his 400ex sells.

Your yamaha dealer could get you one, but you dont need one unless your other one is bent. If you worried about bending it strip it down and have someone guesset the frame for you and then grind off any tabs that you dont need (stock pipe, airbox, heel gaurd, ect..). You can get some new a-arms, but i wouldent go more than +1 depending if you ride tight trails. You will love the elka's while your buy yourself a set, feel free to buy me some to

http://cgi.ebay.com/2003-Yamaha-Banshee_W0...1QQcmdZViewItem

89-90 had bigger rear hubs than the rest.

1. good aftermarket tires 2. fmf fattys 3. noss machine coolhead (21cc domes for 93 octane or 18cc domes for 110) 3. +4 timing 4. K&N filter w/ lid off that would be a good start

the highest bid is now US $14,999.00

YES IM THE HIGH BIDDER AT $305 !!!! DOES THE WINNING BIDDER GET FREE GIFT WRAPPING?

we should have a mod delete this so he wouldent stop the auction

Your probley right, but that wasent my point. The laeger frame uses the 250r's geometry (if i remeber right) that means that you have to get different a-arms,steering stem, and tie rods-$2,329.00. Then the 250r swing arm-$1050.00. Then you will have to get new front shocks, but could get the rear one redone. So thats atleast another $1500. Laegers web page doesnt have a price for the frame, but im sure it has an outrageous price tag on it as well. I was just trying to warn peterlocal22 that he had to buy all that stuff with that frame before he bought it and found out nothing would work on it. IMO, stick with the stock frame and get some elka's. That would be more than enuff for the casual jumper. After you bought the elka's you would still have enuff money to build a stroker motor .

I have been running 21cc domes on 91 octane with no problems @ 1,000 feet.

For just trail riding I would stick with the stock frame. Maybe reinforce the stock frame and then powder coat it, but a good aftermarket frame would run around $1200. And then on most of them require special a-arm,swing arm, and steering stem. If it was me I would just use that money for some elka shocks to make the ride alot softer.

I just used a pipe wrench and a pipe to put on the end of the wrench. Tip: take the nuts off before you take off the tires. You might even need someone to push on the back brake.

Those are the airscrews that you are talking about. The idle adjusters are ontop of the tors box. Take the seat off and turn them 1/2 a turn at a time and wait 15-20 seconds for the settings to take place. Once you get it to idle good you have to make sure both of those screws are turned out the same on both carbs. When you have them lined up good (just by looking at them), turn off the gas, push the throttle all the way and then let go of it. You should hear both of the slides hit at the same time.

I know it sounds silly, but did you check the gas?

Sweet, if your parts turn out good I will probley take some stuff to them over the winter!

let us know how it comes out.

If you dont ride threw water I would go ahead and just get rid of the airbox.

Run it down the road at WOT and put the choke out half way and if that fixes the problem you need to go up on the main jet.

dont forget waiting in the park for old people to throw you bread

I allready have put new ones in on my '04. Here is a good site if you dont have a cylmers manual http://www.bluetraxx.com/axle_bearing_install_1_new.htm

The 4mil crank will give you better bottem end, but why are you getting a dune port if you trail ride alot?

sweet write