Banshee~

Get one of these, it mounts in front of the radiator, or you can just zip tye it there. Some dont even use them. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/Product_De...tv?pid=00009084

Your lean on you main jet if you dident change your jetting after you took the airbox lid off. I would try 240-250 main jets and see if shee runs any better. Also do you know the elevation of pismo beach?

Is your airbox lid off? Ive got fmf sst pipes and a K&N filter with the lid off at 1000ft. running a 320 main,30 pilot, middle clip position (stock), airscrews 2.0 turns out. Your problem is you needle clip position, put it back in the middle and see if that helps, might even go another notch over if that doesnt fix the problem.

I would advance it +4 degrees to give you more bottem end. Also, you might have to run a higher octane depending on your elevation and dome size.

I would get a noss machine coolhead before the 2-1 carb. Your bike will run alot cooler and it looks better than the stock head.

I agree with that, I thought it said no lid.

That is way to big for the pilot. Order 310-330 main jets, 27.5-30 pilots. Start with 320 mains, 27.5 pilots, needle on the stock notch, airscrews 1.5 turns out from seated.

Id put in 320 mains,27.5 pilots, and see what that does.

Sounds like an airleak. Start up your bike and spary your carb boots with carb cleaner.

What all do you have done to your bike? What elevation are you riding at? And what size of jets are you running? Let us know that and we might be able to tell you if its been ported. You might call racelogic up and ask them .

They make them with photoshop, but I think ~~banshee~~ is doing them for free.

Your going to be very happy, but I would have got the t5's if I was you. They are better if you plan on porting your engine.

Cough up $250 for a noss machine head, trust me. Mine ran hot with just pipes, so I added a noss head and engine ice and it runs cooler than a stock banshee would. With the 21cc domes I noticed better bottem end, plus you wont overheat and that not good for your engine if it does.

Ive got the ac's that bolt onto your existing pegs. It took about 1 1/2 hour to install them. Ive bought alot of shit from dg, that will not fit unless you get a grinder out. Some of the threads where stripped on the hardware (was stripped from factory), just shitty products. Ive only seen one thing bad from ac, and it was a blaster bumper.

Dude, eat shit (no offense)....how do you know if someone understands jetting and what effects it or not? I was just giving him a starting point, better rich than lean. Im assuming your going to run it in the winter, so you will need to go up on the main jet for that. Yea for higher elevations require you to jet leaner than you would be at on lower elevations.

The only 24 or 25 in. rear tires that I would think of would be dirt devils, or mud lites. Your shee is not going to like that big of rear tire and it would look queer as hell. ITP makes a 23 in. tall holeshot (xcr?) rear tire that is 6ply and wouldent look bad.

Put the stock pilots back in (25's) or 27.5's if you have them. That should make the lowend better. Also, throw in 270 main jets and see what that does.

I was asking because my half brother live in arlington, so we wouldent be driving back to okla. after the show. I just got off the phone with him, and his wifes parents have a ranch house about 20 mins away from ector and said we could crash there, so its looking better for me.

hmf makes a good pipe. My bro has one on his 400ex and that thing is annoying loud!

Try a 290 main jet and mess with the airscrews. I got this off of Banshee Jetting Faq Start by adjusting the airscrews; on each carb turn them in (clockwise; which is richer) a half turn (180 degrees); adjust both airscrews the same amount. If you have the motor idling allow about 20 seconds for the motor to react to the new setting. If the condition gets worse, try going out (counterclockwise; which is leaner) on the airscrews and see if it improves. If going in on the airscrews helps but the problem persists after you turn the airscrews all the way in, or to within a half turn out from seated (don't torque the airscrews! the tip is pointed and overtightening them can cause damage!), try the next size larger pilot jet, and start over with the airscrews 1.5 turns out; tune the airscrews from there to get a clean idle and off-idle response. Conversely, if going out on the airscrews helps but the problem persists after you get to about 3 turns out from seated, try the next size smaller pilot jet and start over with the airscrews 1.5 turns out; tune the airscrews from there to get a clean idle and off-idle response. Once you acheive a clean idle and crisp off-idle response (no bog or hesitation right off idle), you may need to adjust the idle speed up or down by adjusting the idle screws. If airscrew adjustment does not have any affect on the bog or hesitation, and you are certain the problem is below about 1/4 throttle, check the carb sync, make sure the pilots aren't clogged (it only takes a speck of dirt to block the tiny passage), and insure that both airscrews are set the same number of turns out from seated.

Id press charges and make them pay for your doctor bills for sure and then kick their asses.

BS, you would have a hard time beating a stock banshee with that gearing

Id try the 300' mains,27.5 pilots, airscrews turned out 1.5 turns like he said. $6 a jet you can get both sides for that price on http://www.magicracing.com/view_category.asp?cat=172&page=2

Id put a 280 main, 30 pilot to start with, and just take the snorkel off the airbox lid.

I ride the same kind of places as you and went with fmf sst's. They kick ass, but the install is kinda hard if you still have an airbox. You might look into toomey t5's if noise isent a problem.