MotulMonsta

The yfz runs a 4 bolt rear sprocket and I belive it has aluminum spindles. The Warrior might have diffrent front spindles due to the diffrent frame design. The angle of the ball joint mounts might be diffrent as well as the tie rod mount. I do belive the hubs will work on all three models though.

Yeah, the water will soak up in the fiberglass and rot it out. With constant wetting then drying and high heat, your packing in the silencers might be fried.

You could run the razors on a nine inch rim and have them slide alot easier then the 18x8's. Hell that will work for any mx type tire. You can also increase the pressure. Tire pressure is just as important as tire type.

Be carfull with the long travel on a stock frame, the tie rods WILL hit the a-arm mounting bolts. The design of those arms, the longtrave ones, I asked lonestar about that like 4 years ago.."Why don't you just move the shock mount lower to run a longer shock" I guess somebody else asked this question as well. Now you can run rebound adjuster in the front and not sacrifice travel. But for that price, you might as well get a leager chassis with honda geometry.

The best advice I can give is be committed. If you second guess yourself on the track you WILL crash. Jumping is all about commitment. Don't worry about the guys behind you, just run your race. DON'T BE A LANE HOG! If your slow move out of the way please and KEEP to your line...nothing worse then being stuck behind a guy that can't hold his line and think's he's a nascar racer. That's how crashes happen. You hold your line and the guy next to you will hold his. If you hear somebody sreaming up from behind, don't cut him off. eather speed up and give him a fight or let him pass and try to take him later.

Carb sync could be out. Maybe you blew some packing material out of the pipe or sprayed water in it when you washed. Perhaps it's saturated. When you mess with the needle in one cylinder it's going to affect the whole motor. Both carbs should be set EXACTLY alike. It pops at idle, that normal Maybe your gaps are off on the plugs. If everything works fine, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

You got ot a little wrong there forcefed. Back pressure is the enemy. If your theory was true, stock pipes would put out gobs of power. Anyways pipes are designed and "Tuned" to operated under specific conditions. The motor puts out a soundwave that's related to the harmonics in the motor. This soundwave travels down the pipe and is reverbrated back into the motor where it pressurises the incoming charge. This soundwave deflection is directly related to the size and shape of the expansion chamber. When the soundwave being reverbrated back into the motor and the harmonics of the motor are in "Tune" then power is made, lots of it. Hence the term on the pipes. When you take out the packing you upset the "Tuning" of the pipe..likewise if you leghthen or shorten the silencer as well. This is my understanding of it and explains the necessity of a well packed silencer.

PWK's are D-shaped slide. Work damn good. But if it comes down to the wire, look at other things like adjustment locations and jet access. PWK Kehins have a plug on the bottom of the bowl that make jet changes a breeze, but mine, the idle screw for the left carb is burried between the carbs and the r/s carb air screw is burried as well. Makes it a pain to adjust. I don'tt know much about the mikuni's except they run diffrent jet style then the kehins.

Belive it or not, I'd go through your dealer...but get rim prices and tire prices first. They are going to look in this big PARTS UNLIMITED book...don't go by the price in that book. They got deals they don't want to give out. Let them know those prices in that book are bullshit. They should get a better price. PLUS you don't have to pay for shipping.

If you don't you'll get razor bumps.

Did you say the plug was flat? Like somthing hit it? I say you had an internal failure or swallowed a reed or chuck of metal from somthing that caused the piston to make contact. After that..game over.

The vito's piston has a shorter skirt then the stock with larger ports raised higher on the piston. So it advances the intake timeing. I've recently done a rebuild and intalled the power pistons and what ol' vito claims the pistons can do, they do. Rev's higher and quicker and makes a bit more meat in the middle. The only diffrence between this build and the last is a 20 over bore from the 40 over of the last one to give a total of 60 over stock and .010 milled of the head and a switch from pro-x to vito's. The output is by far more then i expected from such minimal mods.

Well, AV is rated differntly then race fuels and pump gas. a 103 octane rated av fuel might be the equivelent of a 92 grade pump gas. They use a diffrent formula. Also AV gas contains anti-icing additives that could potentialy harm a two stroke motor. Kinda like jet-a isn't good for deisel trucks..the trucks will run good but it will ruin the motor. All in all the AV gas is formulated to provide a reliable fuel for high altitude flying at constant rpms. It made to keep carbs & fuel injection from icing and operated under heavy loads. I wouldn't run it.

What cylinder? If it's the right, your crank seal might be worn causing oil from the tranny to enter which would make it run rich. Are you running the stock exhaust? The baffles might be clogged a bit. It also sounds like an air leak in the exhaust. Do you have all your hangers and springs installed? Does your pipe seal around the exhaust port on the cylinder? Do your clamps on the pipes hold it tight? It's not electrical seeing as it happens in one piston...unless you have a bad sparkplug cap/wire. Both plugs fire at the same time. simple ignition system.

Buy a complete aftermarket clutch plate kit. They come with plates. You usualy can't use the stock plates on an aftermarket kit as the puny stock shit is dwarfed. You also might need to adjust the clutch internaly. But it sounds like something is binding. So I'd take the entire clutch out and inspect it all. then I'd monkey with the tranny to check to make shure all the gears engage and rotate freely and smoothly. You never know what's wrong until you look for it.

You can go with a + 2 front end and have a deaper offset to set it in an inch or so to clear tight woods. You can run what the pro's run, a +3 long travel but that's money. Not worth the cost on a banshee...unless your makin' money with it. I suggest a +2 width, +1 fwd with a -1 swing arm. you retain the stock wheel base but move the weight a bit more to the rear. With shocks, I'd say get custom axis all around, they won't let you down and they are very durable. But they are expensive. Works is a good entry level high performance shock as high performance shocks go. everything else falls between those two companies. I also recomend getting res. to enable you to control the damping and preload. Rebound adjusters will eat up travel so it's a trade off. I recomend rebound adjusters too..at least in the rear.

I cut the whole back side of the airbox off right where it meets where the pro flow kit mounts to. So in essence I have no airbox. just a big foam filter hangin' out in the open. I've yet to have any problems with the filter falling off..I race mx with it..but I do worry about sucking water. Pro flow is a tough ass kit and very dependable AND long lasting. One of the most trouble free mods i've made. If your really worried about water, they make special lids with vents along the sides and back. You can do this yourself on the stock lid. What you want is to channel the water down and around the filter while maintaining good airflow.

You can trade the t-3's for t-5 or 6's.

I broke my innerhub once when I tq'd it. 26 bucks for a brand new one. Didn't upset me for very long.

Buy new ones. Those caps are what seals dirt out and the grease in. Plus new ones look pretty.

WAIT!! It depends on where you ride. With my cut front fenders, I won't ride when it's muddy and wet. Because all that shit on the ground WILL end up all over you. It will get all up under your helmet, in your teeth, up your nose..your goggles will be mudded out in under 5 min. If you run tear off..you'll burn alot. You won't stay dry..your gear will go to crap fast from all the excess washing to keep it clean. I'm thinking of getting a second fron fender assy w/ the fenders still on just for rainy days.

You gotx to bargin hunt. Let the owner of that shop know that you ain't a sucker. If he tells you it's 24 bucks per jet, look him in the eye and say that you could get them for 4 bones a pop and ask if he's trying to rip you off. After you do that to him a few times, he'll know better and just try to sucker an easier target.

Smart ass

I dump mine in 5 gallon buckets then take it to the recycling center. Oil on the ground will f*ck shit up for a LONG time. Plus epa charges $10,000 per contamintated cubic foot of dirt. a quart of oil will easily contamininate 5 feet of dirt. That's a lot of money. Plus illegal dumping into the sewage systems will hurt the seperators and could potentally end up in your tap water or river/ ocean/ lake waters...Not good.

Lean condition, too far advanced timing & A spark plug that's too hot. All those will cause predetonation. Which is what cause a hole to be punched into your piston.