No Limit Powersports

pics of the frame to [email protected]

To start with a cub likes compression and timing so i would start there. Measure your squish before you just go throwing some smaller domes in it. You are going to have to get the squish where it needs to be before it will run right, personally i would run it between .036-.045 but some may disagree. I have seen pump gas 421 cubs that acted this exact same way and the problem was they were running a squish of about .060 and 19cc domes with about 145lbs, but the problem can come from many different things, did anybody port this cub, are you sure on the jetting, timing, compression ect... To be honest I think a 421 cub should be running 180+ compression with at least +7* of timing and good gas...otherwise what you could have just built a 350 stock cylinder for a lot cheaper and made 75hp...imo...

id be interested in any stock trannys that you have and clutch covers

Ive got a noss head brand new with 20cc domes ill turn loose for 250

Looks like to me i said not both i said you need both as in a 795 piston for the rod and a spacer OR a dome for the stroke

you use either a spacer or a dome with a offset for the additional stroke typically not both (i suppose you could do like a partial spacer and a partial offset then get the ports right but lol) if it is a long rod you use a different piston, if it is a stroker then you do the plate OR the domes, if it is both you do both. all your trying to do is either get the deck height back close to factory so the piston doesnt crash into the head or cut the dome so it doesnt. Essentially all a stroker does is add displacement.

The different series piston is used to compensate for the longer rod length thus you can drop in a long rod crank with a different pistion and the port timings will remain unchanged. A cut dome 2mm step (because with a stroker the pistons now actually move farther up and down), plus whatever step (squish) desired, to compensate for a +4 mm stroke +2 up +2 down for a total of +4 thats why on a +4 stroke longrod you need a different piston and either a spacer plate or a cut dome but with either way the port durations need to be correct. Now cubs on the other hand are different cause the deck height are already cast into the cylinder for the different strokes so no plate no offset dome

Just take the lock nut loose that holds the adjuster and screw the fork that holds the pedal as high as you can get it and still put the pin back in and it should clear.

If your just dirt draggin your not going to beat a set of wedge style tires like the pro wedge, 4 snows, or the zippers. Ive tried all the tires including the klaws cut and the klaws are probably the best knobby ive found and just as good would have to be cut tammers but the wedges arent good for anything other than straight line draggin

I think its arp that makes some 8mm x 1.25 nuts that take a 10mm wrench a little trick Calvin taught me along time ago makes the front two bolts cake anyway alot of your builders should have them or ARP part number 300-8311 for a two piece pack

First thing we need to know is what motor it is exactly there are a lot of combinations of cub motors. Mid .50 squish imo is way to much i run all my motors between .036 and .040. You will gain some compression by tightening down the combustion chamber, but what motor you have depends on how you do it. Each motor is design to have a paticular base gasket in it to keep the port timings right even know that every builder has a opinion on that. If it is a stock stroke stock bore cub with a long rod you should be using a .022 base gasket which will leave the pistion .018 in the hole so then you have your dome cut with the correct step in it for the squish you want. If the motor is a stock stroke 68 bore with a long rod it should have a .012 base gasket which will leave the piston .018 in the hole... the reason there different is because a 65x54 long rod uses a 795 series piston and 68x54 long rod uses a 573 series piston.

Cow Checker

interested pm sent

interested pm sent

nowata 45 min north of tulsa

I have some 22x11x8 9 paddle extremes tripple buffs excellent condition 72 roll out (no wheels) --275.00 + shipping I also have some 22x11x8 9 paddle haulers single buff excellent condition not sure on the roll out (no wheels) --150.00 + shipping

Ive got some 33 pwk's with the rubber boots to hook to the stock box. Ill take 300 for em.

Up for sale is some brand new shearer big bore out of frame (each side, no silencers) chrome. This pipes are brand new they have been mounted but never started. 400 + shipping

Yea graphics arent really my thing but i think it looks good You coming to the races this weekend?? Thats no joke ive never spent so long on a website out of all the ones ive done, but it was all worth it giving jeff the capability to put his own parts on makes it all worth it

Thanks for all the props guys keep the feedback coming

Thanks i think its works so much easier than most

Im diggn it so far hope everybody likes it, let me know if anybody finds any problems email me at [email protected]

No not right now but jeff has the ability to upload pictures into his photo gallery now. I dont like setting them to where any body can upload pics cause you never know what you might get uploaded!!! But im sure if you snap a pic and send it to jeff he'll put it up for you he already has a bunch up now.

the site is done but Jeff dont wont to go live with it untill he gets all the products uploaded to the site should be going live real soon!!!!!! So now everybody can bitch at jeff and not me lmao JEFF HURRY UP WERE TIRED OF WAITING SLACKER WHERES YOUR SITE WHENS IT GOING TO BE DONE LET GO GET IT DONE TRY AND GET SOMETHING DONE TODAY ROTFLMAO

LOL thats not Jeff thats Brian ive seen lots of pictures of him hes a nut