J-Madd

What size tires and gearing?

With the Draggin Plastic the weight is negligible. We've ran some without plastic, but usually because it was in the way of something we were working on. I think there are fewer that run plastic/fiberglass than just a few years ago.

Extra thick fiberglass with thick lead based paint I hope.

I have a complete 4 mil Cub with 2-5 override. In the 4-sale section if you search back a bit.

My 650 cc drag bike has ceramic powder coat. It runs better than most.

You can buy one 10 years newer for not a lot more.

Yea I meant fibers. I use Barnett steels. I cant seem to find out which oem clutch is the "583", and I'm not at the shop where I can look at the package. I don't know if the FZR is the one we run with the 8 plate, that may be the 7 plate or 10 - 12 plate, can't remember. I think any will work through. Just have to adjust the pancake bearing accordingly for the thickness.

I wouldn't spend the money on the Hinson plates. FZR1000 or Raptor 660 plates are common. I use the one that's stamped 583 on the Hinson 8 plate. I forget which one that is.

Left over for 9 years? I bought a 2006 SE new. It was $5000 or so. Then I cut it up and put a Cub in it.

Could be sheared flywheel key or pick coil gap is too big.

Packard. Fast by Gast.

Run a kill switch wire to a red wire on the left coil, and the other kill switch wire to the red wire on the right coil.

Run the end of the red wires to the kill switch leads.

Are the pistons in it now stock? You can put new stockers (with fresh hone) and run it if so. As long as it's not out of round. You can't however put in a stock replacement forged (wiseco) piston within boring it.

If deto caused the problem or not, if water got into the dome while it was running you probably ended up with deto. Dome(s) and piston(s) are likely not in the best shape. The bore I wouldn't worry about so much. Unless it's due for a bore and hone anyway. Or everything may be fine. Tear down will tell. Of course leak down test first as mentioned.

I have a hybrid ridgid frame. $1000.

4 mil Cub complete dynoed 100hp on alky. Ran low 3.8s with 160 lb rider and 3.7s with jockey. Has 2-5 override and lockup. $2000 plus shipping. Firm.

I jokingly call my Scimitar Drug Money, and my 650 cc Twister Alimony.

No. It helps support the cover while kicking it, I think, but it'll be fine. Put it back next time.

I'll put in $500. $1500 now.

PM sent.

Impressive.

I'll sell a ridgid chassis cheap. PM me if interested. Probably not much more than a bolt on front end.

I get some next time I go to the shop.

I have some polished Shearer silencers I'll never use. You can mod your pipes for them pretty easily.