DUNEDEMON

HEY NOW! Watch it!

Most good engine builders will do the case porting when the cylinders are ported, check with your builder.

Not trying to hijack this thread, well I guess I am. I just designed some new A-arms for my bike that use a "uniball" instead of a heim / or ball joint ( automotive tie-rod end ) They are at the coater as we speak, whenI get them back I'll post some pictures. They are +2 +1 with 9 degress of positive caster and 1.5 degrees of negative camber built in - non adjustable, made from .083 and .120 wall 4130 chrome-moly, tig welded. If people are interested I may start building them and selling them cheap.

Good info Rescuejeff, I have Todd at TCS do all of my valving (he uses our springs exclusively) his prices are close to what you paid, and offers the same type of gurantee. What type of spring did precision concepts install? just curious.

I am not aware of any such part, short of going to an aftermarket clutch lever assembly that comes with a cover you are probably put of luck, but if you find something, let us know.

boonman, I just need to know what type of riding you do, and the length of your swing arm (stock / -2 / +4 etc...) I'd be happy to help you out ( or anyone else for that matter), let me know what I can do. Who are you going to have do your re-valve?

I think Wallrat's avatar is better than NO avatar.

Congrats locogato11283, sounds like fun. I'd like to see some pictures too.

Check with T-Rex or Cheetah.

If this is a Banshee based project I can help with a spring (my company makes direct replacement increased rate rear springs for the OEM rear shock) plus we have coil-over specific springs too. If you have significantly changed the weight bias, or rear suspension's motion ratio you will need to increase the spring rate to gain back you wheel rate. The only time a different length shock is required is when you ghange mounting points. Let me know if I can help.

If you have the chassis of the bike supported, the rear swing arm will move (up and down) enough to allow you to remove and install the rear shock no matter where the pre-load adjusting nut is set.

Remove the rear shock from the bike (it's easy) and use the spanner wrench, or if you are careful (and don't have a spanner) you can use a large pair of channel-locks.

I have a 6 x 12 flatbed trai;er that will hold 3 stock length Banshees sideways, sorry I don't have any pictures.

The seals and the bearings need to be removed prior to coating. They are easy to remove, not worth the risk of damaging them.

Yes, the hubs are secured to the axle with a bolt that passes through the axle, no splines at all, width is 2 position adjustable. The X-33 axle come with hubs, and a new locknut.

I say get yourself a cat and a video camera............

Try checking Douglas's web site, they mav advertise the weights. As far as damage to the wheel, I'd say it depends on what type of riding you do and how hard you do it.

Yeah, I'm tired of being that asshole. Tried camping world too, they just have shit for the "built in" models. When I baught my Wekend Warior I was not about to spend the extra $3500 for the generator, I bought my portable new for $950. The onan stuff wont fit my model (Generac) already tried. thanks though.

Have you got the other half? are you willing to part with it?

I think you guys should stick to using shocks that are designed for the machine in question. Installing honda or cannondale shocks on a Banshee is a bad idea. Different bikes have different front end geometry, pivot points, pick-up points, motion ratios and travel requirements. Save you money and do it the right way. Would you attempt to install a ford part ona dodge just because you had one and it looked close? I'm not trying to be a dick, just trying to save you guys some time and money.

Was just answering your question, based on my own experience...I give up. Good luck.

philshee Thanks for the tip, I'll look into that.

Me too, Stan's stuff is the shiznit.

Well I'll try a stock Banshee silencer, maybee Got1 will to, anyone have any stock silencers they want to get rid of? Might be good for my generator - installing Yamaha parts on a Honda.

Thanks for the ideas guys, unfortunately I've already looked at 6 different local shops and the smallest mufflers they have are WAY to big. The mufflers at the hardware stores that look like canteens are basically the same thing I have now. The pipe work is not that big a concern it will be easy. I was just hoping that someone else had gone through the same thing. I want the thing quiet, but I don't want to add so much backpressure to the engine that it starts running hot. Do you think a stock Banshee silencer would work? What about a T-5 silencer? Again this is a 10HP Honda OHV generator engine - think of it as a big block for your lawn mower.