DUNEDEMON

Hope I did not come off like an ass, that was not my intention, was just trying to explain the terms to some of those who might not have a clear understanding of the them. Again not trying to be a dick, just to clarify - that is only 1.5 deg positive, they do not get added together, 3.0 deg positive would have your front tires looking like the back of a VW baja bug. Your settings on your 2 bikes is good information, gives others some insight about different set-ups. I have no need to go 90 and let go of my bars, hell with my gearing I couldn't even get close to 90.

I've seen them advertised by a company called "bling star industries" http://www.blingstar.com

Yeah rub it in, its too hot for a trip to the dunes here in So Cal.

Duce are you really running 3 deg of POSITIVE camber? Yikes! I run 1.5 deg of negative camber, 9 deg of positive caster, and 1/4" toe in. Negative camber is when the tops of the tires lean in towards the centerline of the vehicle, make the vehicle turn in hard and promotes good handling at high speed. Caster is the spindles inclination forward or backwards if you were looking straight down on top of it. POSITIVE caster works with camber through the travel range as long as the camber gain is minimal, tough to explain without a graph but think of it this way - have you ever tried driving your car realy fast in reverse and attempted a precise steering manuver? Feels strange right? This is the effect of NEGATIVE caster. With some tinkering on your camber / caster settings you can really get your bike to handle great.

My TAG T2's came with a black and grey pad, have you checked with TAG for a diferent color?

You have to use "saftey wire pliers" to do it correctly, they are special pliers that clamp the wire then allow you to spin the body of the pliers to secure the wire, then cut off the excess portion of spun wire. Sorry for the poor explination - kind of hard to describe. Go spend $30 on a good set of pliers and a spool of saftey wire and do a little practicing on some stuff before hand, you have to be careful not to wire them too tight otherwise you'll cut through the grip. You will be amazed how manny other things you can secure with saftey wire on your Banshee. I have used them for years, never realized how manny people have never used them.

Check, TAG has some adapters for their bars, they have a "banshee" adapter (works with the stock stem) and a "universal" adapter also. I have the T2 bars with the banshee adapter and they work fine - take a look at their site it has pictures / descriptions.

Neither...

This will add more "pre-load" and may help slightly, but ultimately the original front shocks will be far to soft both in spring rate and valving. When increasing the width of the a-arms an increase in spring rate is needed to gain back the original wheel rate, this can only be acomplished by going to a set of aftermarket front shocks (the original Banshee front springs are not replaceable for an increased rate spring) the increase in spring rate typically needs a change in valving inside the shock to controll the new spring rate. BTW - I have no personal experience with the "ugly" a-arms but there have been numerous posts regarding their poor quality and customer service. Good luck.

Ding Ding Ding! Give the man a prize! Great answer, this is correct. 1.5" of toe OUT would be INSANE!! With the tie rods on the Banshee positioned where they are, the natural tendancy is for them to toe out when loaded, so a bit of toe in will help this, TT guys may run some toe out, I would suspect not 1.5" though.

SAFETY WIRE!!

Scott I would say the single biggest thing to keep an eye on is the air filter set-up and making sure it is sealed correctly to the carb etc.. you know the story. Beyond that I would just reccomend that you check air pressure in your paddles, check / adjust the chain, all vital fluids, bring some extra jetts for temp & elev changes, spare spark plugs, tools, plenty of water to drink, flag/whip. As far as sand getting everywhere - that is part of having fun in the dunes, just make sure you have no leaking fluids / grease etc.. and the post-dune clean up should be a snap. Anything moist / greasy will hold sand like glue.

If you are looking for new replacement seat cushions I think that UPP make polyeurethane replacements, not sure what they cost.

sredish by the looks of that picture if you don't slow down you are going to have to get your hand an abortion.

I have a +4 with 13/41 gearing and I run 116 links - had to get a 120 link chain and remove the extra 4.

Not here in CA baby, at least some gas is cheaper here...

I hear this is a common thing with the Banshee, but get this - my bike is a '97 and I've never lost one.

I started with the patch, then the gum, then finally on to the cigarettes - wanted to take it slow and not rush into anythinng.

I'd say stick with a shock designed for the banshee. Have you ever tried putting Hyundai parts on your Dodge?

You have a lot more motor than I do (370LR here with a full dune port) so I don't think you'll have a problem. If you want to do some gear tuning at least they are cheap. That set up works well for me, but I am just a duner, not a hill shooter, I only run a +4 swing arm with 20x11x10 8 paddle sand stars. (added in edit) It seem that no one else is running one of Jim's famous engines with shearers, so you'r going to be the test mule.

Thanks for the tip Bigboy. yes ther "NXT" wax is new I just have not tried it yet, was just curious if any one had. For what it's worth I use a product by "Eagle 1" called "wax as you dry" (comes in a red spray bottle) I use it between waxes, any way you spray it on the car/truck after washing while it is still wet and then dry it - works great I highly reccomend it. I'll pick up some NXT and give it a try and report back with the details.

Oilsmoke I found that the Shearers like a bike that is geared a bit low (porting etc.. will dictate what works best) For example not changing anything engine wise on my bike when I went from the T5's to the Shearers I went from a 14 primary to a 13 primary and the pipes really responded well. I am now at 13 / 41 with 20" paddles.

No that place is called "Hytech" do NOT go there for anything other than dress-up parts, beyond that they are bad news. Good move, Kevin is a great guy and really knows his shit.

Your vibration may be due to the tires being out of "phase" on the rims. The cups on the paddles should be in the exact same location side to side. For example, with your paddles on the bike the cups should contact the ground at the same time on each side when moving, if not this will cause a vibration because there is a delay between paddle to ground contact. Did that make sense?

Call Kevin at "Custom Creations ATV" (909) 797-1585 tell him what you are looking for and he will take care of you. He did the engine in my bike and I have nothing but great things to say about it. He is located in Yucaipa CA - about an hour east of LA via the 10 freeway, tell him Blaine @ Eibach sent you.