banshee04le

Yep. I've got a 3 footer that weighs about 20lbs. Heat would not be necessary. With the cheater pipe, I wouldn't even grunt.

It sounds like the crank seal on the clutch side to me. Take the pipe off of the right side and look for signs of tranny oil in the pipe. If there is oil, it is the crank seal.

Will it rev up cleanly while it is sitting there idling, or does it not rev? If it doesn't rev up, but bogs when you try to, your emergency brake switch or wiring may be bad. On the handlebars (clutch side), there is a black jacketed wire that goes to your emergency brake switch. Trace that wire down to the first connector (down in front of the radiator I believe) and disconnect it and see if that helps.

I hope I do this right: The gears 1 through 4 have been back cut so you don't have to use the clutch to shift, along with the shift drums. Basically what happens is you are in 1st gear, and when you normally shift, you pull in the clutch, you move the shift lever causing the rotation of a drum which in turn slides a fork that engages the drive dogs of the next gear. With an overdrive (sometimes called an override) the drive dogs on the gears have been back cut with ramps that allow them to engage flawlessly, but the shift drums have been relieved as well. When you select the next gear the counter shaft spins faster than it was with the previous gear, and the gear going slower is forced away from the driving gear due to those ramps, and the fork is allowed to slide over and out of the way so it doesn't get bent. This is why you have to pull in the clutch when you lift off the gas with an override. If you haven't selected another gear, there is no clearance on the shift drum for the fork to slide, and the ramped drive dogs will allow (force) the gear to disengage, but there is no where for the fork to slide, so it will get bent. Good for drag racing imho. Not for the everyday rider. When they mention straight cut gears, they are talking about the primary set. From the factory they are \\\ because they are quieter mostly. But this can cause side pressure on your crank and cases under extreme hp. Straight cut gears are stronger, and won't cause a side loading situation when you have 149 hp. All new knowledge to me. Thanks Stan. I almost feel like I could go out to the garage right now with my dremel and backcut my dogs. I'm not sure about relieving my shift drum, so maybe I better leave it to the pros .

Like I already tried to tell you, and like Jim said also, if your smoking more on the right side than the left and you notice your tranny oil level dropping, then your clutch side crank seal is bad. Its not going to run right until you fix that.

Grabbing the sawed off shot-gun and heading back to the bar is rarely a good idea. This guy pushed up the benchmark for a bad day. Now, no matter how bad one of my days get, I can always say at least I didn't blow my nuts off.

I'm on dial-up unfortunately, and I'm sorry to say that was incredibely slow to load. Cool pic rotation when it finally did load and those Gibson long travels are badass. I know that my subsequent behaviour is not condoned, however I feel that your opening statement of is at the very least, presumptuous, and could indicate that you are not really in touch with who you are and your place in this world (I'm being dirtrider for a day). To me, the statement indicates an inflated ego (Walter had words for me in the past. I'm not one to hold a grudge though .). And my ported nitrous motor will spank your little longrod or whatever your running anytime your ready. LET'S GYT-R-DONE!!!!!!

Me too Also, when I'm jerking a quad off a truck...I don't think about it when I'm doing it, but I've thought before that if you tripped on something when you were walking backwards with the ass end that it would probably hurt when the bike came down on you. Thats it! Heavy objects falling on me. I'm scared of that too.

Didn't you say that when you took the head off because you thought you had a coolant leak, that you put it back on with the same gasket and used some silicone also to try and seal it on . That could have something to do with your compression problem. How about I crate up my freshly drag ported engine out of my 04' and we just trade. Just built and runs like a top. PM me.

How much time you got on those plugs. You didn't get that much coloration starting with new plugs and doing a wot chop test. On a wot chop test, the plugs will look very lean to someone who is used to reading plug color on 4cycle engines. On a properly performed throttle chop test for jetting purposes the only coloration you are looking for will be a ring that should form on the most recessed part of the center electrode insulator. The whole insulator will not color...it will look lean to someone who does not know to look for the ring. Those plugs do look ok though, for being in sevice for a short time.

How much is some amsoil anyway? Bushings-bearings...whatever .

How in the hell would that which you wrote even be conveyed to someone over the radio. Whats with the arrows? Looks to me like you take 73 south to highway 23 and 96. Then take 96 west for 145 miles and your there.

Anyone running 30mm keihins on a drag-port 350 stock stroke? I have cpi inframes and k&n pods. What needles work? Shees loading up at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle and then takes awhile to get on the pipe when I pin it...then she rips???? I have tried all needle positions. A smaller main helped, but I think I may need a different needle now???

I say a good warmup with some little throttle blips the night before you ride. Then a good warm up with throttle blips before a first easy ride. Let her fully cool and then shes ready for some drag racing as long as your jetting is on. I base this on nothing technical or specific so take it for what its worth. Works for me.

Yeah, if 2 guages tell you 60psi, like you said its rings or reeds. probably rings if both cylinders read close to the same. She'll really rip after you rebuild the topend.

Did you pull off that right pipe and see if there is any oil in it yet? It only takes 5 minutes to pull that pipe off.

If you have a nice frame paint job, do it like the book says and put the bare assembled crankcase back in the frame and build it up from there. It's easier that way anyway.

Pull the right pipe off and see if any oil drips or pours out of it. If so, your right side crank seal is bad or not installed correctly, causing the engine to suck in tranny oil. If there is oil in your pipe, clean it out with kerosene and reinstall after fully drying. Run it again. If the problem (oil in the pipe) re-occurs, you will have to split the cases again and replace the right crank seal. It will be much easier for you this time. Don't give up. Glue the seals into the case with yamabond5 and don't put them in backwards, like I would have if I didn't have a clymers to set me straight. Use yamabond4 on the case halves.

#1 nothing to time. The only marks to be aligned are on the clutch basket when installing the frictions disks and plates. #2 The rings can be carefully spread and installed by hand. Make sure the end gaps are positioned properly at the locators in the ring groove before compressing and installing the cylinders. #3 The torque spec on the flywheel is 59ft/lbs Oh yeah...what he said...

Yeah a good amount of side to side slide is normal on the piston pin but there should be zero wobble or play. It should be a tight slide, just how I like it. If the piston is not burnt or scored on the skirt and the bore is measured to be within spec tolerance for the piston then you can run a hone through the cylinder and throw on a new set of rings. Wrong forum section by the way.

I'm assuming you have stock carbs. Make sure the choke tube is in place between the two carbs. If so, one or both of your slides probably are not fully closing. If one hangs up, a switch inside the TORS setup on top of the carbs disables the ignition if the thumb throttle switch says that the slides should be closed. You need to make sure the slides are in right. You need to see them to make sure they are both opening and fully closing in sync...you may be able to if you remove your filter and shine a flashlight, I'm not sure. You may have to remove your air box. Do you have spark? Are the plugs wet?

I don't think that would get you anything but ridicule, unless you were a paraplegic. Now if you could rig a reverse gear, that might be worth the extra weight and effort .

It does add increased stress on your bushing and balljoints. I can't tell you first hand how much this will accelerate wear because I flipped mine and then flipped them back after 1 ride because I didn't like it. I noticed much more bump steer which made the ride less comfortable and more fatigueing. It would be ok for smoother tracks and surfaces. Not cool on rough off-camber terrain (bumpy shit).

I watched a guy trueing a crank one time. He layed it up on a bearing jig so he could spin it and positioned and zeroed a dial mic on the shaft. The dial mic was setup on a simple positionable jig with a magnetic base. He spun a crank and it was about .030 out of wack. You can tell where the high spot is by watching the mic needle. He grabbed the crank and wacked one of the throws caveman style with a big brass hammer about 2or 3 times. He layed it back up in there and it was much closer, about .007! He then took a smaller brass hammer and wacked it some more. After some fine tune wacking he had it spinning true and set it aside to be welded.