banshee04le

LMFAO

Oh yeah, if its not too late, its better to remove the clutch basket and flywheel while the engine is still bolted in the frame...makes it much easier than fighting it on the bench trying to hold the engine down while you crank on that shit.

Its pretty easy. Remove the side covers like you said. Remove the clutch assy. Remove the stator and timing plate. Pull the head and cylinders off. 16 case bolts later and shes ready to split. Pull the top case half off after you remove the pistons from the rods and there will not be any springs or gears flying anywhere. The 2 gear packs lift right out as an assembly. A flywheel puller is the only special tool you should need. I may have forgotten a minor detail or 2 but nothing tricky. You'll see when you get in there. Make sure you have a clymers manual and you'll be ok.

I didn't say "come around" dumbass, I said "turn the corner around here" and what that would MEAN is that everbody would stop fuckin' with you. On second thought though, I don't think you will ever turn the corner around here. And you are, without a doubt, the one who is clueless.

On a serious note, hang in there Dirtrider. I think you might even turn the corner around here some day...if you stop being such a post whore. Honestly, you post way to much stupid shit. Try to cut down, and get a life while your at it. And I still recommend that you pursue furthering your education...past the 4th grade.

If it's not already, disconnect the little black TORS module that is mounted on the left frame tube just in front of the gas tank and try it. If not that, and all cdi wiring checks good (not open or shorted to ground), I'd try a new trigger module which is on the timing plate and picks up a magnetic pulse from the flywheel. The flywheel can also lose its magnetism if it has been beat on in an attempt to remove.

huh

Thanks Frank. How much loot we talkin so I can have it together before I call.

He meant that all the fuel that you said ran down into the drain in the floor of your garage needs to be diluted down with water.

Don't clamp off the overflows. That would just cause the fuel to flood into your crankcase. You probably have a piece of dirt holding your float valve open. Disassemble the carbs and clean them w/carb cleaner and compressed air. Adjust the float and or replace the needle and seat if necessary.

To tighten the chain you just loosen the 2 carrier through bolts and then loosen the locknuts on your adjusters and then turn the 10mm adjuster bolts in to tighten. Make sure to turn both of them the exact same amount. You want about 3/4" of play in the chain. Even 1" is not too much IMO. To test rear sprocket wear, try to pull the chain away from the very rear of the sprocket. No matter how loose your chain is, if your sprocket is not worn you won't be able to pull the chain off of the teeth very far. If you can pull the chain more than half way up the teeth of the sprocket, its time for a new sprocket.

Exactly. And what brand of oil are you using and at what ratio? Is there more or less smoke than usuall from the exhaust? Is it idleing faster than normal or did you have to try to adjust the idle speed down anytime recently? If it revs clean and fast while not under load but does not make power under load you are probably losing crankcase pressure. Its not your clutch side crank seal or you would be sucking and burning tranny fluid. Its either the flywheel side crank seal or the cylinder base gasket is leaking or the machined crankcase mating surfaces are leaking, which do not use a gasket. They are sealed with a sealant called yamabond that you can get at the stealership. Make sure the intake and exhaust can flow properly like PlaynSand said. What you describe does not sound ignition related...misfiring and timing issues are fairly distinguishable from other engine problems IMO. Sounds like you need to do a pressure test.

How about Trick Truck or Reds Trick Truck or Performance Truck.who ha or Reds Performance Truck or Badder_Truck.com or Trucked up.com or ...I like Trick Truck...I do however want credit...and $500...thats cheap ad consultation and you got it from the best .

Right on! You nailed it. Now move along over to Bluetraxx.

$60 a month for 2yrs = $1440 + $500 down = $1940 or buy it outright for $5800.....hmmm. Try that again. How much are your payments and for how long?

Dirtrider are you a fucking moron? I don't know why I ask because I know that you are. Asking somebody on a public forum if they grow. You never cease to amaze me with your level of stupidity. I kind of feel sorry for ya...but damn!!!

Not at all. If anything, there would be a slight decrease in power. For maximum power, you want to use the lowest octane rating that you can safely use. High octane fuel does not make more power. It simply resists predetonation longer than low octane fuels. A low octane fuel can ignite before the spark even arrives, if compression is high and combustion surfaces are hot. That is predetonation and will melt you motor down faster than anything. Again, race gas is not to make more power, it is just insurance against predet on high compression motors, or motors running NO2. Buying race gas is a waste of money if your motor doesn't need it.

Wow dirtrider, you are dumb. Casting soil before swine? I thought Holyman set you straight on that when you uttered that same foolishness a week or so ago...it says you shouldn't cast PEARLS before swine. Why do you keep posting idiotic shit like that anyway? It doesn't even apply. Seriously dude, you need to go back to school. The alcoholic janitor that hangs out in the boiler room could probably even teach you a thing or two.

Quick fix. I looked over and had 666 posts .

Good post. I admire your perseverance I guess, but a man without pride is not a man. If you had any, you probably would have taken the hint a long time ago and moved on...maybe I'm wrong, but I would have. Like I said, I admire your perseverence...I guess. Some of your posts aren't too bad. I even believe that you actually have a banshee now. Try not to make so many dumb posts (I'm tryin to cut down on mine) and I would say don't start so many dumb topics like the "what if everyone owned diamonds like jelly beans" but that seemed to go over pretty good Yep, woman have more shoes than men . If I lost anyone at the end there...it's an inside joke. Stop making dumb posts and I'm willing to cut you some slack.

A lot of guys run 2 full quarts. This has supposedly been found to reduce the possibility of the ball and rod welding together on your clutch throwout, which can occur if you downshift too far for the speed you going, with the clutch pulled in. Like if you were flying along in 6th, pulled in the clutch and downshifted to 2nd or first while your still doing 80. 1.5quarts min. 2quarts max.

Yes...you are.

I blew a crank seal last week. I split the case to replace it and I see that I have some pretty major crank seperation going on. Its time to build it better and faster than she was before. I need a motor that will make a reliable 75rwhp, that will still take a 15-20hp shot of nitrous with no problem...so I can't run high compression. I'm wondering what would be my best bet to make that kind of power without high compression?