Onesickcrewcab

Who says you have to change it twice as often?

How long were you riding it? Its possible the float got stuck up and starved the engine for fuel on that one side. I've seen it happen before.

Heres a stupid question. But does it rev at all? Does it feel like a tors problem?

Wow. Ive never seen that happen before. What thickness base gasket were you using? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you should pull that crank out and have it checked out. With the pistons smashing into the domes it could of knocked that crank out of true or off center. Especially if it wasnt welded. Was the crank you put in it a stock crank? Or a hot rods or some other brand? Almost looks like it may have been a long rod crank. Another possible reason is the guy who owned the bike before you might of had the bottom of the cylinders decked due to the cylinders being warped at some point. Then ran a thicker base gasket to make up for the deck. Good luck with it.

How many hours does the motor have on it? And have you checked the compression lately?

High Temp RTV works fine!

If those upper A arm bolts have never been taken out. You might want to grab a mini sledge cause you might need it. When I took mine apart I destroyed the bolt and had to buy a new one. Word of advice. Use Anti Seize when putting that all back together. PB Blaster works well.

Here is one of the best tools you can ever add to your toolbox. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585. If your head is leaking it will lose pressure. Do you know what temp the bike is running at? I'm with the rest of the guys that you pinched an O ring.

If you have another shaft already, just tear it apart and fix it. Its not that big of a deal. If not, do as Loco said. Weld it and fix it next time the motor is apart.

Heres a list of problems that you would most likely see. Spark plugs backing out, Bike running real hot, possible hole in the piston, lose of porcelain around spark plug electrode, stress on the rods due to detonation. You cant run that much timing on gas. Now if your were on alky I would say go for it, just leave it fat.

I also wont use fuel thats been sitting for over 2 months. Had bad experiences with it. I say you just load up the bike, tent, beer, and the fuel and head to Pismo. Problem Solved

TTT

200 obo. Bump

Hope you get better soon. We need to talk about new jams in the chat room

Bump!

Have a set of YFZ450 A Arms off my 2007. Only went to the dunes a few times. Ball joints are tight and the arms are not bent. Comes with the tie rods, upper a arm dust caps, washers and nutz for ball joints. Does not come with the lower a arm dust caps, or crush sleeves. Grease Zerks are already in there. Asking 225.

Depends on your elevation. My 485 at sea level had 24cc domes and the compression was right at 200 PSI per cylinder. Right now I currently have 27cc domes and the compression is 175 PSI per cylinder. I have a 485 with powervalves blocked off. Even with 175 PSI you should be running 110 race gas.

New Price 450.

I'm listing this bike for my brother. If you have any questions please PM me and I will give you his number. 2005 Yamaha TTR 90 Dirtbike. Very low hours. Clean bike. Few minors scratches from riding boots. Oil changed after every 3 rides. Kid outgrew this bike. This bike has electric and kick start. Paddle tire and dirt tire included. Current green sticker and title in hand. Asking 950 OBO

The going price for these I've seen online is 150 for the set.

Heres some pics of the bowls.

Chariot makes some. Call John and Sandtoyzunlimited. He has them in stock and ships same day. 818-500-7263

So this is what we still need to get Austin up and running. 1. Kicker Gear 2. Flywheel, woodruff key, and nut. 3. Transmission shifter shaft. 4. Eccentric bolt, nut, and retainer. 5. Case seal kit. 6. Clutch cover gasket. I want to give a big thanks to everyone who contributed to the welfare build! Austin is a great personal friend of mine, and I can tell you he is very excited to get this bike rolling.

:biggrin: I totally agree on the fact of limitations and efficiencies. You assume that the stator will only put out 100 watts. Hence the 8 amp output. That comes back to the efficiency. Is it only limited to 100 watts? Every stator will be different. The wiring in a banshee is not going to give you hardly and measurable resistance or loss of power transfer. What the real science comes down to, is how much heat can the light filament take? Neither of us know that answer to that question, but we both know that amperage causes heat. I agree current is passed, but the amount of current that is passed is based upon the resistance path. With the filament being nothing more than a resistor ohms law still applies. Minus the in-efficiencies. I know for a fact from experience that two 50 watt lights will blow without a voltage regulator. In your theory that stator only puts out 100 watts. And minus all the in-efficiencies in the banshee wiring, minus the coil, and the voltage drop you mention. The factory 70 watts should light without blowing correct? Better you didn't try to re-school me in electrical calculations. Because that would be a battle that neither of us will win!

The problem with you theory is that the lights are designed for 12 volt application. This goes back to simple ohms law. So as your bike revs, your voltage increases but your resistance stays the same. You would have to calculate the current for the lights at max stator output power. Lets say 22 volts. I'll break it down for you. Light bulb resistance. R=V^2/P. So that equals 1.44 ohms. 1.44=12^2/100. Now the resistance of the light bulb is not going to change, because they are 12volt lights. Your current flow through the lights at 12 volts will be as follows. I=V/R. That equals 8.33 amps. 8.33=12/1.44 Your current flow through the lights at 22 volts will be as follows. I=V/R. That equals 15.27 amps. 15.27=22/1.44 Now your power across the light can now be calculated. Which will be as follows. P=VxI. That equals 99.96 Watts with your lights at 12 volts 99.96=12x8.33 (As you can see the theory working) P=VxI. That equals 335.94 Watts with your lights at 22 volts 335.94=22x15.27. So as you can see, at max stator output voltage the lights will be trying to drawing 15.27 amps. And trying to put 335.94 watts across your 100 watt light bulbs. Will it take that? I don't think so. And if it could take that, it would be drawing all the power to your lights and kill the bike. Unless of course your stator puts out over 335 watts and run your bike. So you need that voltage regulator to keep you at 12 volts so everything is good. Anymore electrical questions? lol