Onesickcrewcab

I was thinking of another word, but we will leave it at that.. lol

+1 for sandtoyzunlimited

I'm down. Hopefully my banshee will be back up and running by then. If not I will be out there on the new YFZ450. Chad

Bump

Yes SOLD!!

I'm looking for a good clean set of banshee cases. Meaning no chain damage, cracks, repairs or anything like that. PM me with what you have or what you find. Thanks

Better pics for you guys.

Still have the cool head. I'm going to go take better pics right now. The cool head is not damaged or warped to my knowledge. I bought new and used it for about 6 months. Never had an overheat or anything of that nature. Then i upgraded to cheetah cylinders. It uses aftermarket studs which I am including. All you would need is an O ring kit.

Yup your going to need some new needles. Do you have aftermarket or stock carbs? Need to know to tell you how to adjust them. To get them right it requires tools.

The cool head is polished aluminum. I will get you some better pictures later today.

CARBS AND PADDLES SOLD

Pro Design Cool head with 21 CC domes. Comes with studs. The O ring kit was shot so no O rings included. Asking 140 obo. Sorry for the bad pics. If you would like better please ask.

That things sexy. It would look awesome on my bike. To bad I need funds to build my motor, or it would be mine

If you advance your timing to +4 you shouldnt need any upgrades. If you go above +4 you will most likely need to run race fuel depending on your compression

Paddles have been sold.

Yes I still have the carbs for sale.

It shouldn't take much drilling to make it fit. If you do drill it, blow the shavings out with an air compressor. The petcock has filters on it so I wouldn't worry

Need funds for engine rebuild. The extras I have around have to go 38 PWK Air Strykers. The air cleaners have already been sold. $200 Plus Shipping 20x10x10 10 paddle extreme haulers on wheels $225 OBO Wheels need some polishing and the paddles are like new. If you would like better pics let me know.

The weakest gear and not to mention a pain in the butt to replace. I don't know about you guys, but those clips holding the gears on gave me heck.

I think that might be the problem. Today when i got home I was checkin that out. Took it off and noticed that there was a little plastic lip on the feed side of the fuel filter that could be restricting the fuel flow. You know the kind of plastic lip on a cheap model car that you put together that was leftover from the form. Dont have time to take her out tonight and check it out, but I will let you know if that fixed the problem. Thanks again for all you ideas.

Looking for the factory thumb throttle assembly. So if you switched to twist throttle and have your factory thumb throttle laying around that you want to get rid of let me know how much.

I'm running B8ES NGK plugs. As far as the petcock being clogged I'm not to sure about. I know when I turned on the gas and having overlooked that I forgot to put the gas line back on the carbs it flowed pretty dang well. I have an inline fuel filter that I put on when I first bought the bike and I also changed that out incase it was clogged. The floats are at stock spec. 21mm from the carb bowl gasket seat (without the gasket) to the top of each float in both carbs. Should I adjust them differently? Is an airleak in the crank seal a common thing? I could pull that side cover off after work and check that out. Thats about the only thing I havent triple checked yet.

Alright went out and leaked checked the Banshee again today. Took off the boost bottle and inspected it and it looks good. Put it back on and leak checked her with starting fluid to see if I could get a little rev or motor noise change and nothing happened. No air leaks to be found. Dont know where to go from here except bigger on the mains.

I was thinking about that today. I did spray WD40 all around the boots and reed cages and didnt find any leaks plus both cylinders are running identical. I didnt spray the actual boost bottle, but I did spray around the base of it. Its brand new and looked decent but I guess it could be cracked or have a leak. That would explain both cylinders running lean at the same time. I'll have to check that out tommorow. Thanks for the feedback. Its the little things we miss that make life miserable.

Alright guys first post here but I've been reading posts for a while. I have a 99 Banshee with FMF Fatty gold series pipes, K&N filters with airbox removed, Boysen Power reeds, and White Brothers boost bottle. I'm having problems with the jetting. I ride at sea level ( live about 15 minutes from pismo beach) and I can't get my banshee to stop running lean. I'm running stock carbs. I started with a 300 main jet, 30 Pilot jet and needle in stop position with the air/fuel screw at 1.5 turns. Found out really fast that the main jet was way to small so I jumped up to a 350 main jet and it continued to run lean. So I decided to jump way up to a 470 main jet to see if I could drown the thing and go down from there. So right now I have 470 Main jets, 30 Pilot jets needle in stock position and air/fuel at 1.5 turns and she still contiunes to run lean after the result of a plug chop. I've tried moving the needle clip down 1 and 2 positions from stock to richen it up but that isnt supposed to work at WOT and the results weren't any different. Tried adjusting the air/fuel screw from .5 to 2.5 turns and it still runs lean. The bike has lots of power and no bog on top end but gets hot real fast. The result of my plug chop today with 470 mains, needle one slot down from stock and air/fuel at 1.5 shows that center of plug completely white. ANY IDEAS???? Most people with my configuration seem to be running a 380-400 main jet max according to the many posts I have read. I have no mods to the engine itself as its still on its stock top end. Have a missed something here or does this thing just need a huge jet or possible some bigger carbs??? I run 91 Octane at 32:1 with castor oil.. Any thoughts, ideas or comments appreciated