camatv

still here

dang and i thought a 1.5 to 1.7 on a non barred bike with 300lb bike adn 280lb rider was not o so good..

i didnt buy them for jenns cause at the time i had just gotten a set of show chrome CPI's that were perfect. then i came across a set of same side outframe shears in show chrome hand coned. bought those for another build and now thats whats on the bike. nickel starts to look like sheet after a year or so just like Pc fmf and other nickel plated pipes. i just cannot seem to want to have a bike of her's caliber with wd40 pipes or discolored nickel pipes with pits in them.. sorry. what i meant was you cannot get them in show chrome for 750ish from jim direct... ( as far as i know) you can buy them in bare or nickel. for what i PERSONALLY WANT and would expect quality wise i would PERSONALLY want show chrome. and i would want NICE chrome not that bullshit that starts peeling after 6 months or starts to flake in 3... and to get that kind of quality costs $$$$ yea i already have about 12k in her bike already. and it sits there and looks nice with the shears on it just fine. i'd just feel for what we do with it when we ride it the snipers would be a better fit to the motor... to me if these were retail 480-550 bare and 600-650 nickle they would sell better.. stainless!!! thats a great idear~! fully polished stainless would be the ultimate.... that would be killer. i love my stainless pipes i have on the trail bike..

looks like a play bike already.

didnt know i asked about a cub motor?? ha ha BUT anyways. this is my 6 year old 535. in the old LSR chassis. and yes i'm 280 lbs. the motor had a rip in the intake and if i posted pics of the cylinders people would wonder how it even still runs... this was the last race/ run for it its getting pulled and split and new crank, pistons, replate and all other loose as hell bearings and wobbly stuff inside is getting replaced.. so in the mean time i will just use the 485 in this chassis. i think that will be a good base engine to "track race" with also. rember i'm just doing this for FUN!!! i plan on putting a +10 arm i have on the chassis and pulling more weight off of it if i can. also getting a bar built and put on also. then i plan on using a launch limiter and starting to "tune" my clutch stuff.. anytime i had to let off the times would drop at least .5 most times i just leaned up and stayed in it. those were the faster of the passes i made. it was also about 98* and hotter when we raced! when it would wheelie 250ft of the track the other guys there didnt believe i would stay in it that far. heck was just riding for me Ha..

if you want "roll of dimes" pay 600+ for a radiator. as far as alluminum goes if it holds, has proper penetration, and dosent leak. then its good. i personally HATE the "roll of dimes look" a flowing style alluminum weld to me looks much cleaner. if you look at some machine alluminum welds thats what they are. and yes i'm no certified welder either...

ive seen some much shitty'er builds for sure. good job. if you like it then ride it!

first off i'm in no way defending trinity in any way shape or form.. on my recent "vacation" i decided to stop by first hand to trinity racing and take a lookiee see around. i really dont know whats going on over there. BUT its kinda a 2 sided deal also>? first off i walk in and there is NOONE and i mean NOBODY up front i could have walked out with about 5k in billet parts that were scatter'd around on the show room easily. of course i wouldnt have know what they were cause there was nothing on the walls or even in some kind of order.. the "offices" up front were empty and most had random parts in them and a few desk spaces. finally after about 10 minutes i walked into the back shop area and a dude was back there packing parts that were sold through ebay. and i mean a TON of parts. after i said hello he got someone to help me out. and that fellow came up and promplty helped me find what i was needing ( PV gaskets for a cheetah. no i wasnt going to pay 25 bucks to ship a pair of gaskets that cost 12 bucks.) figured i'd stop in and just pick them up... he kinda showed me a round a lil bit and explained how things worked ( kinda) was a nice guy i felt.. i didnt meet harry he wasnt there. the back area had many CNC machines going and there were a few motors sitting around and a dude in back doing port work.. its a shame this is what i mean by a 2 sided deal they have all this "talent" i mean come on they are designing CNC machined parts that look cool, are made HERE IN AMERICA!! and at least somewhat work well. its just WOW guys who's runnning this place its a total mess in there!!! i just cannot believe this kind of business is being run this way.. so much potential there and just a total mess.. i really feel sorry for the guys i dealt with and the seeming total lack of support there. the one guy i dealt with in person was helpful and was willing to kinda show me around and wasnt a real asshole to me at all... i dont understand how they can have that kind of problem when their online sales are so heavy. ANY person that answer's the phone SHOULD be able to process a payment through pay pal ON THE SPOT and hand the tinny lil part to the shipping guy about 20ft away from his desk. that thing would have shipped for 5 bucks in a flat rate box... there were plenty of flat rate envelopes being shipped out from what i saw. i just dont get it.. the building is not across a 15 block area wherer anyone who answers the wphone would have to make a major effort to go talk to someone if they are unsure about something. what the hell guys!!

i 100% agree.. i have even went as far now to completely redo the radiator on the one i am doing. i hope it will work now.

cheapo drag shock.

there is one with an alien head sticking out also. and if i rember right one with just the top part of the skull.

bad bearing. also look at the lower chaing rollers maybe?

im guessing thats with a bar... no bar on the dunes.. around here there was never a track untill very recently that was even close to me to to consider going and testing the bike out. so all my "setup" was specific for the dunes around here... the track is a fun place to play with the setups. in the first day i was at the track that just opened i went down to a 12 hauler and ripped a few 1.5 60ft times if i rember right thats with no bar and i weigh 285lbs. in the last few years the launch has seemed to be all that matters since the 4 chokes started racing around here we all went to about 200-250ft racing it seems.

yup if i had more $$$$ i'd have a set ont he wife's bike. its just at 700+ then have to have them show chromed at 250+ its a hard chunk of change to cough up. thats the only reason i dont have a set on it right now.

buy a mattoon basket. install done.

depending on sand conditions i run from 12 haulers to 16 extreme. 14 over arm. if your gettng left behind in a 1-5 you are either not using it right or not transfering enough to the sand ( tire spin) or have some frame issues. i'll pm you

with no packing in them probably.... wow guess what i have been saying about them was just ignored huh? as i stated they are similar to power as a CPI just stronger.. excellent high end rider bike pipe. to me.

vague q's go a long way in here.

if you know how to gear', tire', use a 1-5 they are much better than a 2-5. but i also try to ger for a high MPH and i'm a fatty too i blew up 2nd gear so many times i got tired of it.. went to the 1-5 n down before it was really "popular" and havent looked back. i run hinson spring loaded ( cause its the only one that stayed together) and 15/40 to 15/39 gearing on 72-74 roll out 14's and launch 1st. you also need to understand what it is your trying to accomplish with the trans itself. its not easy to get 280+lbs moving quick.

brats totally suck off the line unless you have let them down to about 1 psi and sit on the grab bar. they work good for shorty swingarm bike. to stockish bikes too ANY scat track tire in the 9-8 " 9 hauler to 11 exxtreme is going to make a huge difference in your "bite" off the line. but just rember got too much and your going to fight wheelies

you should come out to the midwest HQ ride this coming year. damn those are some WHITE cases!

they will tell you to buy a cub.. mostly because the older ones are overported and jacked up. they dont have the pv's inthem so they dont work right and as stated they dont have the correct dome shape in them. now to enlighten people. when th e"cub" first came out it had similar issues. some were being overported and wouldnt run worht a shit. and others were haveing way to tight of a squish clearance recomended and a n incorrect squish widht put in and were blowing the heads off or destroying pistons. those issues came about the development of a better more suited dome shape/ desing that would hold up. and that development if back'd on the cheetah casting along with a full understanding of how the pv works can result in a supperior motor to a cub.. this is just my opinion and the cub is still a great motor to build.. so dont misquote me there ok. most those cyls were 400 cheetahs if its a 68mm bore seen a lot of "4 mill cub/cheetahs" coming up for sale,, then they end up being 400's most have the stroke and bore cast or stamped in them in the intake area.

i hear ya.. i miss watching the 2 stroke bikes lay waste to the fart canners. then everyone got on the fart can band wagon and we have ultra loud sloww ass racing.

most times my poop is a kinda brown to tan color.. for comparison?

your going to need more than porting.. BUT it depends on what exactilly your trying to beat.. if your trying to hang with stock bikes you shouldnt have an issue now. if your trying to whop some cubs with drag chassis your in a long road of spending cash.. buy a DM and get a 6 over...