camatv

FAIL

the pvl is lighter, probably made it rpm more.. put on a 16 tooth and increase the HP output of the motor. ALSO the stock ignition will add more timing on top potentially slowing the motors rpm capacity down.

only baskets that have held up in my motors are the big anodized matton's or the spring loaded hinson. any other basket and i at least convert it to a big bolt, thick plate, mattoon cusion basket. every other one i have ripped the bolts out of or blown the cusions out of them. if you run the spring loaded you will most likely have no problems related to clutch basket failure. its a good choice.

yup.

LOOKS LIKE A LA SLEEVE MOTOR.

klotz. super techniplate. screw caster oils. green antifreeze mixed 50/50 royal purple or klotz lower end oil for 2 strokes must saqy on the bottle OK for wet clutch klots will most likely say that but the royal purple you have to get the right stuff.

weight of driveline matters too.

ohms test the plug boots. if your running a resistor plug put in non resistor. also unscrew boots and see if the ends are rusted at the connections. if they are replace both boots, cut back just a tad of wire reinstall. gap plugs to 20 tho. make sure stator pickup is around 20 tho gap also. if thats ok. remove petcock and clean the in tank filters. check petcock, float level, and vent tubes on carbs are not plugged and not straight cut and hanging below the bike. remove mains and dump tubes completely, make sure all the holes in the dumps are clean and the air holes in the fronts of the carb inlets are clean and clear. if this is all ok. try upping the main jet one size. if it gets worse. try one size smaller. 2 strokes dont like to run out for a mile or so at WFO you will need some special setups to run for a long period of time at wide fuckin open

if they dont have windows cut in the skirts dont sweat it. plus those 2 part numbers. the O is a zero. not the letter O

yup your fueling a larger cc motor with one carb.. it sounds like its lean on the upper range OR starving for fuel...

any length on the arm?? no question about that.. if your stock length to 2 over the brats work fine. if your going racecut they end up about paper thin so if you rin any kinda real terrain. the 8 to 10 paddle haulers are great. also consider 8 or 9 paddle 9" wheel extreme's they will flex some and hook but not as much as an 8 but then not roll so much like what is wanted riding around like a 10" wheel. they work really good. most dont know about them

whats the slide cut away on the reg pwk's. then compare to the air stryker.. i have had air stryker's really dang good on old trail bikes.. 38-45 pilot, and 150-165 mains. most people try running way to big of a pilot in them then try to jet them backwards. if the bike wont run/ idle, and come right off idle nice and clean how the heck are you going to set up the mains? cel or eel or ceg? needles if i rember. been a long time ever since i found lectrons dont really mess with those other crap carbs much.

its not a 79.. get some cheapo digital calipers or just send it all off to someone who can get you setup bore, and piston . then like said do tors delete, no boost bottle, check crank, true weld if ok, get anodized billet basket from mattoon, and modified stocker trans.

the eix are easier to fire.. i run them.. you may not need resistor caps if your running resistor plugs also.

NICE! I rember seeing one of the old lsr stockerish looking frames run way back in the day it took me a bit to notice it wasnt a stock chassis..

ha ha..

DAMN

is the choke passover tube in place.. order a synch tool already thats probably the problem. just counting screw turns on idle screws will get you no where.

but holy crap what do you do if it rolls over?

after you get the idle set ( it will probably be around 4-6 on that synch tool. ) you need to set your cable pull. this is one of the things i think a LOT of people forget. looking at your pic one cable adjuster is way up the other is bottomed out. i personally screw them in all the way then set by eye that they are pulling up pretty close. then after you have your idle set up and your slow jet is the right size ( by listening to the motor using the idle air mixture screw) you can set the cable pull. i give it a very small amount of throttle enough that i can see the sych tool raise up then hold it at that throttle and switch back and forth on the carbs. one will be lower than the other adjust the tops till they come just off idle at the same reading. tighten the adjuster nuts then set your cable slack. you want a small amount of slack for turning but not so much that you have to push the throttle cable in a ways before it rev's. this is with the adjuster at the thumb throttle. THEN if you still have it the throttle stop screw can be set. push the thorttle in till it bottoms out then adjust the stop screw in till you feel it hit the thumb lever inside the housing. then adjust it in just a tad then you are hitting the stop instead of pulling on the cable. your cables will last a lot longer by doing this. and of course set the stops nut that keeps it from moving. if you get your idle set dead on you will hear a difference in the way the motor sounds it will also come off idle a million times better when your riding it. this small tuning aid ( synch tool) is one of the best you can get and use. doing this completely will result in a much better running and more reliable motor. y9ou can go back about once every few months and check it again. things move around and those lil stop screws wear some too.

17cc shelf domes or 17cc custom domes... makes a big difference.

yes. check your vents if you plugged the vent under the water pump and your rear vent is plugged it can pop those out. OR your shift fork shafts have poped a circlip and its moving over pushing that plug out. if your vents are plugged put the alluminum plug back in and put a lil locktight green on it when you reinstall it. also make sure the plug cavity is clean.

the wire loom is probably one of the places its coming in. but dang you have to pretty much sink one for that much water to stay in there. if the water can get in and get out its not nearly as bad as just sitting in there. i have cleaned then painted rusty flywheels before. and then just made it so that the water can escape from the bike. if your not sinking it in the river it sholdnt get as much water then... the stator and flywheel can handle water and really its best that it just flows back out. the loom is also sticking out some in your pic you can push that into the rubber gromet so its flush with the inside of the case. if it sticks out it might move over and rub on the flywheel and make a bo bo some people around here think these things are boats i swear.. the weird shake the motor had there is deff something going on in there. split that sucker apart so we can see!

i think the source of the water getting in is the huge mud holes and lakes your riding in. its a sport bike not a mud racer.. yank the motor and check for piston skirts still attached / and, or hydrolocked crankshaft and or phased out crank from hydro lock ok just watched the video. check all your motor mounts also. almost sounds like looks like a exhuast spring rattleing against the pipes. but kinda hard to tell in the vid. motor has a nice decell shake to it!

my trail bike i ran a 65 tho squish clearance on pump gas. it ripped. ran for miles and never acted crazy. you have to rember "optimal tight squish" is good for short burst motors. drag motors etc, long drawn out trails. long heavy load like hill climbs and long low throttle lean condition rides like trails will like more clearance than the so called optimal. plus larger bores will want more clearance also. try running a 421 cub at 40 tho or a big single nope not going to live for long at all. i personally prefer larger than so called "optimal" squish for riders and drag bikes for many reasons. mostly for deto issues with running low octane pump gas. and reliability concerns the band width and dome profile seem to do a lot more than just sqush. if your domes have a really wide band in them and a tight squish your asking for trouble. its easy to see where a motor actually wants its band at with used domes. at least thats how i started looking at it. the cool thing now is your going to be able to try 2 sets of domes back to back and compare them. hopefully you spec'd a small width band less than 10mm wide..