camatv

looks like trikefest will be 2 weeks after snakehunt i'll be hitting that and weather permiting i'll be going as much as $$$$ allows this next year.

the head will fot std cubs not super cub and you will need cub specific domes.

and a good manual i prefer either the OEM OR a haynes clymer i didnt like much i thought thats how you break in a new motor is rev it solid for 2 minutes?

oh GREAT now everyone's gonna want to go spend the night with me in the commander!!

stay in the house and drink hot chocolate?

i love my pic its awesume

nope never happend to me i dont loose.

that was hard to read.

welp any luck?

the so called "trail gearing" and why it SUCKS 13/40 20" tire dirt.. 24 1st 32 2nd 39 3rd 47 4th 56 5th 67 6th

hmm how about this. 14 41 22inch tire launch in 2nd sometimes 1st 350cc 33 1st 45 2nd 54 3rd 65 4th 78 5th 93 6th

thats pretty cool 10500 15/40 26inch tire sand launch in 1st 43 1st 58 2nd 70 3rd 84 4th 101 5th no 6th seems right as i tried to gear to hit 80mph in 4th on gps and my rpm was showing avg shift rpm at 10,500 to 11000 overrev and i almost never get the bike into 5th

i dont rember the factory spec but i do think its 1.85ish?

2 strokes are really dependent on ring seal so fitting new pistons and rings often does make a nice performance gain. escpecially 350's!

i can drop in all 10 studs in about 5 minutes with an installer.... i can remove the studs in about 8 with a remover. i just like having the right tools for the job. just my preference.

yea and if the cylinders have been overheated too much they will be more likely to yank threads. also the studs you use you need to check that the o-rings will seal against the actual stud NOT a threaded section of it. it is more likely to leak if the o-ring is in the threaded area. also use grease on the o-rings to help hold them in place and take your time dont rush it. you will need longer studs for that head also. and i'd highly recomend using a stud installer/ remover on them.. dont tq the studs much at all when you put them in the cylinders. just a lil eee and thats it.

recently i have been liking a modded air box that i came up with the pod filters always seem to rub on the frame and get holes in them or they can also fall off!!! ( mostly the really big ones) the air box i use pluming connectors to connect to the pwk's thery are easy to trim with a bench grinder. the ones i use are rubber just measure the carb then measure the airbox and go get them you HAVE to measure the couplers because they are a lil off on their sizing if rember right i think i used a 1 1/2 - 2 coupler. and i got them at home depot. you will need to trim them down if the box is in the stock location. i have also used the longer ones without modding he couplers just modded the box. the filter stays in place and if you have a pro flow kit with k+n they work well you can cut the shit out of the box i have cut the entire box off before and just basically zip tyed in in i always cut the frame tabs off and cut that section off the box also they are easy to remove this way i'm thinking of making a small braket that bolts where the plastic mounts are and on to the box to support it. after years of dealing with burnt outerwears and burnt up filters with big ass holes in them i'm really liking the modded air box..

thisis how. you have to resleeve the cylinders and then pop up the sleeves then make a spacer plate and weld it in, OR get a head designed for the sleeve pop up then set up all the porting and you have to be careful they are easy to break into the water ports. for the cost to do it i think it would be better to just save your pennies and buy the aftermarket cylinder when your ready they are out there. and they are rare but the ones i have been around RIP

are you going to change up your suspension also? just putting in a bigger motor is not going to help you out escpecially if your having problems wiht your lil stocker motor now. try setting up your suspension better and droping as much weight as you can first?

hmm i'd guess that since he said stock shocks they are stock fronts off of a banshee..

the thing with +3 arms is this. most people dont know it i dont think. you can run the 4/1 ofset wheels and the bike steer's much easier and will not fatigue as much. the big ofset out wheels can bump steer bad and will want to follow ruts and such even in sand. the 4-1 inset wheel lines up better with the steering angles of the ball joints. i always liked the +3's for that reason i could still run stock offset wheels and i felt they rode better.

tim's balls should fit them. hehee just check to make sure your spindles aren't reamed they shouldnt be with 16mm stud

thats a good idear.

happend to me the other day i ALWAYS check the fuel level. had a yfz come in that poped and backfired then died and wouldnt start i looked in the tank switched the petcock over to reserve and it started right up. he was happy

hell yea do it for sure you will LOVE it! but be sure you get a helmet cam so that we can see the video from the first time you ride it and it hooks in 3rd and slams you into a tree!!