camatv

cool

always pre heat all parts to be coated.

i like the mother billet. seems to be nicer and much less elbow grease. as far as already polished stuff that is...

pretty cool bowls i would have like to have ran a set on my 28's... they would be good for setting fuel level. not much else really. plus they look cool oh yea and lectrons have had this for a very very long time... clarke "natural" tanks were actually nice for seeing how much fuel was in the tank instead of having to stop and open the cap... i'm going to do an alluminum tank with a fuel gage on the side here soon...

there are no review's because nobody has any yet.. and yea the people that would run them are snowed in. OR running other pipes right now. i'm curious also. BUT they are set up for 421 cubs....

just put them on and ride it

umm hmm take it off the bike then call TOOMEY and buy a NEW set of silencers.... DONE>

good lord all this crap about OKO's JUST BUY PWK"S!!!!!! they FIT they WORK they WORK oh and did i say THEY WORK> whats the price difference from oko's to pwks??

i would personally chose the CPI's ( because you want to keep the air box) OR the trinity inframe pipes i know i know trinity is a painin the ass to deal with but the pipes are very nice powerband i really prefer them over the t-5's fit and finish is nice and they just work well.. if you are willing to do something with the air box the shear's would be an all top end pipe. what about r-2's? or the snipers?? the high prices of the snipers might hamper the reviews for a while on them. plus they are set up for 421 cubs./

get me a email i have one low hours rebuilt backing plate/ cusions 120 shipped

250r rear end. probably has 250r brake caliper OR some home brew stuff swinger KINDA looks like a lsr but the welds and rear carrier fitment is deff not their high quality. the 250r and banshee carrer have about a 1/8 differnce in the mount location ( if i rember right) most time its not bad it might eat sprokets a lil bit. i have one of these 250r rear ends. the r axle is much bigger but heavy. i DO like that the R has a cooler rear brake mount, axle nut on them looks not as clutter'd up like the banshee double nut stuff.

people that still have a subscription to dirt wheels.. people that take pictures of themselves in various places reading dirt wheels people that get pissed when a girl in a bikini is in dirtwheels ( oh what will my MALE kiddo think?) people that run rippers on stock swingarms and wonder why it wheelies ( its not cause of the power) people that do street bike conversions and then run sand devils or angled paddles people with v paddles that dont like straights cause " they wont turn at all" people that stand up in the whops going 2 miles an hour thinking they are flying.. people that let their KIDS drive across the drag strip at the dunes. same people think its ok for their kids to drive those lil atv's in the pits doing circles ALL DAY LONG and the kid constantly blips the throttle. ALL DAY LONG ( then get pissed when i start throwing cans at them as they drive by?)

i will roost all over the trators with my smoking smelly 2 smoker, ass blasting dirt slinging no wasted crank strokin floppy dick BANSHEE

bump

they are deff pretty quiet and work ok

they still have to fit in the cases no matter what. the spec i was saying is the center to senter and outside's to fit and clear the cases. this spec shouldnt change no matter what.. what do you really think about the "budget " cranks.. the JC is the WSM crank right? what the heck is the builders supply?

deff go with ball joints. tims are simple and fit the stock spindle

pretty cool. i dont think you can ever type too much or have too many pictures. i have a set of the newer TB's if you ever decide you dont like those slide style..

i dont think you would need po off pressre for a jetski carb on injection? have you taked to gigot about this? ( stall worth uses gigot for the work he does with injection) lobo's was all done at gigots why not use a non slide TB/ i think i have a set of newer r-1 TB's i was thinking the same thing. what did you do with the lectrons??

i'm sure if you call tim he can custom make you some arms to use the longer shocks

LRD's like a bigger motor. they also will make more upper RPM hp on modded engines. i have a set that were built for a 4 mill and they are a really cool pipe ( if your looking for more top end than the t-5's) the STD lrds are ok they basically move the power up in the rpm range i have never really messed with the slipp pipe design to try and tune them to the motor. usually just set them to rpm and called it good.

ask for the shipping costs to be cover'd and ?or a credit or parts for the cost's that you have spent on the last few ones.. i cannot believe it at all. what the hell is going on?

there you go doing that again!!! K+T is good at what they do BUT of course you better know what you want some of the porting i have seen from them i wasnt impressed for what it cost then others looked very nice. ( most were big $$$ builds?) just cause the bike has the K+T logo on the juggs, dosent mean its a fully all out built K+T bike. one of the coolest bikes i ever rode was a stock cyl 350cc they did it had a LOT done to the inside and the numbers on it were saposed NO NO's these days. on alky and shears among other stuff it was a blast to ride..