camatv

thats the truth i cannot understand some of these guys from the south @@@ my cat sometimes sprays the bushes.. sorry had to

all depends on how you want the motor to pull. i like more lower rpm hit BUT i also like a high revving engine. small motors like to REV bigger motors are more lower rpm's so the pipes are fitted to work on what they are intended. the 535 cheeta i have i use the big bore pipes it looses less hp as it heats up (dune racing) and will launch a hell of a lot harder when you load the shit out of the motor. that is bigger gearing heavier rider and lot more tire.. a lil 350 can rev and make power well into 11000 rpms the big bores will really fall off after 10000 i know on mine i use 7500-10500 rpm range ( its also powervalved) a 535 i would choose a big bore pipe and gear it up tire it up.

replace everything.. adjust nut lock washer shift shaft spring plastic thingy should cost about 70 bucks in parts

sell it, buy my lsr 485. take to sand, kick ass.. or spend about 2 times as much and have half the bike

umm yea crank seals OEM, yamabond OR import grey ( not 1211) clutch cover gasket base gaskets, head gaskets or o-rings intake gaskets, o-ring for water bypass through clutch cover ( use OEM) clutch boss lock washer, drive sproket lock washer. stainless allen bolt set ( if wanted) blue locktight for all bolts..

i just muted it the 10's have red frames too! lucky!!

yes thats the cool thing about them i also use couplers for the stock air box. all you need is a cable ( unless you have torrs removed) and the couplers they are a easy nice upgrade from stock. i have a set i'm thinking of seling they are chrome slide, LRD preped bored to 30mm pwks. some of them are NOT chrome slides and they can wear quickly.

i have a yfz turbo kit i need to sell this COULD be re done to run a banshee ( what i was thinking) its the garrett turbo ( NOT off a car) turbo netics blow off, high pressure fuel pump, turbo regulator, plenum, charge tube, exhaust manifold. its set up for blow through should be able to install and get running on a yfz really easily. i would recomend dyno tuning for set up. but i have read some on blow through setups and they really seem simpler than you'd think. i think most peoples issue's are with fuel pressure. with this pump and regulator the fuel pressure can rise whith boost pressure... i need to get it gone 900 shipped!! i can email pics. turbo is a water and oil cooled bearing set up. 100-200hp rated turbo

i'm digin this plastic

here's some vids they even have their own show! he rides it at the end.. can someone come and hold my grab bar??

ooo that looks cool!! why do they have these things and NO sxs? those are r-1 rears and linkages. seems interesting doing a linkage on a front suspension...

the snorkel holds them back SOOOOOOOOOOOOO much. you can keep the lid and just cut the insides of it and where the snorkel goes on i have done that a few times it works well. unless you are splashing through water so deep that you really shouldnt even be there int he first place. i'd ditch them both and run a nice bolt on plate or modded stock plate. i look at banshees as the corvette of the atv world and would you drive a vette into the lake?

get a space heater and warm defrost the bike. i have had them freeze in the trailer on really cold rides to races and we have had to heat them up to even get them to start.

\its probably too rich on the bottom. OR your trying to take off way to low in the rpm's/// its NOT a 4 stroke you gotta rev it a lil bit to get them to go.

hmm ok i looked on the nett also. couldnt find shit either. must not be that important. my DMR chassis has a weird linkage thanggy on the back that works very well ( now that i have it tuned in) it sounds a lil similar to this.. i cannot picture this v style your talking about ..

now thats funny right there i dont care who you are !!!!

thats hwere i get all those weird bolts. ace hardware..

yea like i said i'd trust the crank from M+M over the ebay offering ( of the same crank). the one i installed deffinatelly was fully welded and looked like a great weld it was nice and true and i wouldnt hesitate to install another one.. i'd like to see the "new rods"!! every CRANK will eventually have a failure. what pisses me off is these cranks that are sold as ready to run and then are crap right out of the box.. wiseco's can have the center pin welded i sent one to crankworks for this to be done along with assembling it corectely and welded right it was too wide and unwelded on the center AND not true. and the "seller" wouldnt do anything about it so a "good deal crank" ( 50 bucks less HA) ended up costing about 200 bucks more to just get it running. and 650 bucks + total for a simple 4 mill long rod crank dosent sound like a good deal to me..

they deffinatelly showed the ability's and advantages of that particular motor. but wow they are really really really expensive. my trail bike is a 421 stock cylinder and on 110 oc it is a 55ft tq and 80 hp with trinity pipes ( i have it on alky now.) the serval is doing those number with cpi's and pump gas ( very cool)

dg's BLOW i rember a pipe test a LONG time ago they were just BARELY above stock pipes in power. i always thought he silencers looked kinda cool. but the performance is just not there. i'd take a rusty set of FMF fatty's over new chrome dg's anyday

is you motor completely stock? i dont know why the serv would have to have a lockup. a good clutch with billet basket and strong springs should hold it. your talking about around 80 hp IF you use cpi pipes.

you need to post up some pics.. and as far as developing something that looks "off" its hard to sell i rember when KTM switched to inverted front forks on their dirt bikes they hated to do it their std front forks worked amazing ( they also used no link rear ends) BUT the "consumer" was confused as to why KTM still had std forks when EVERYONE ELSE had inverted it took ktm years to figure out the front forks after they switched..

screw heimes ball joint all the way you cant convince me otherwise.. how in the heck if you have 450 bucks for a-arms are you NOT able to find some with ball joints?? or are you just dead set on NEW?

its a comon bearing type like ball bearing needle bearing i think they are called drum roller bearings. the only reason we know them as "tz" bearings is because of the use on the tz road race bikes from yamaha. used to order them through yamaha for the banshee cranks. they use an inner race for the banshee crank..

35.5 pwk's are sweet they are NOT to big for your bike in drag bikes i ahve ran 39's on a 350 before. the 30mm ( bored 28's ) are sweet all around carb also they will rev on top harder than you think.. i have ran away from bikes with 33's and 34 pj's on them with 30's/ its not always how big the carb is...