camatv

what all bearings you replacing?? if its swingarm, linkage, front a-arms thats not bad the piviot works USUALLY comes with the spacers AND the caps/ seals.

only thing really to compare power wise would be a stock cylinder 421 there arent a lot of those around anymore the cubs took that segment out when they got released. i do have on e in my trail bike i'd LOVE to dyno it and have the curve ploted alongside a 421 serval. i am betting the serval will be somewhat smoother and have more top end than the stock cylinder due to the triple exh port and triple transfer. now i bet the question in the future will be 4 mill OR stock stroke 350 serval? thats what i'd like to build...

flat track. hmm is it short track? is it a big track? medium track what gear are you usually in now? these factors will make more of a choice in what pipes to use than how the power of the pipe alone. no one pipe is going to do everything... the sst's are a very cool pipe they have the bottom of the std fatty but come on earlier and will rev a lil farther in the rpm. the t-6's with a good lowend pipe will RIP on the bottom and have excellent throttle response. they will also be able to have more tractability. that is like a 4 stroke they wont be as prone to breaking the tires loose.

long live the powervalve!!! whats the bore on the big bore twister? my 485 cheeta is a beast all over bottom top its hard to decribe. well with a 165 pound kid on it it will wheelie on a +14 and 13 paddle extreme's it hits 3rd and hage a nioticeable "surge in the top end power.. its a 73bore/ 4 mill. its been stupid reliable i mean in the last 3 years i have literally filled it with alky, rode the shit out of it, changed the bottom end oil and cleaned the filters, carbs.. thats it. i agree if the cheeta PV motor was more affordable it would be a hard top end to beat... but dang those twisters are some very sweet juggs. i like how that one is water'd up from the bottom of the exhaust like the tz750's ( you can also do that with other cylinders through the base area..)

and the rubber butt plugs on the stock front bumper DO fit the exhaust to seal it up !!! WOW

here's how i feel about it... you can run the same pipes on the "drag### port" that a cpi ported cylinder would use. the t-5's just wont rev as high as the cpi's and you will definatelly feel the brick wall effect the t-5's have in higher rpm's. BUT the t-5's will have a tad more lower end than the cpi's. the cpi's are much better suited for a high port number.. long time ago t-3's t-4's were set up on cylinders with a very very high port number (200 -205's) and they worked ok... vice versa the cpi's wil also work ok with a lower port number thats suited for a t-5.. BUT the cpi will pull more rpm's with the same cylinders i just wish the cpi's fit better!! its all in really what you are wanting out of your motor. and be honest with yourself about how you ride it.

sposed to be the same...

why do they switch to the 400ex brakes?? if i'm thinking right the 400ex has a very similar caliper to a banshee single piston lilwpy pads.. 450 calipers sure look cooler too!!

chop the subby off and buy a STELLAR!!

banshees dont die they just hide in the bushes waiting to jump on your shins when your not lookin!!!

yes kinda..

just buy my 485 cheeta in the LSR chassis and be done.. 10 mills are sweet. i'd look into a cheeta. use matton baskets, 1-5 override N down ( more gearing options if you need them) bla bla bla there is a LOT you will need to build one from scratch. frame set up is cruicial. if your frame cannot handle the powa its just going to be very hard to ride if you have to get in and out of it a lot your going to loose. also if your just spinning the tires in the sand your going to loose. sometimes it takes a few years to get it all dialed in and working welll. seems in recent years peep's just sell the bike after it dosent work and build bigger and bigger and bigger to just realize their mistake and wish for the lil motors back ( 4 mills, 10 mills)/.

TDR is great tony has never left me hangin on anything i have ever bought from him. ( and to think some shops would have told you uh its a "race part" and your screwed...) and checking your clearances is a good habit to get into!!

look up the specs in the factory manual and measure the side clearance i bet its not together all the way i've been seeing this more and more lately ( not sure why) .006 is a bit much i'd shoot for .001 it will rev much easier and the bearings will hold up much better motor will run better and last much longer. the crank/ pistons/ cy;inder is the heart of a motor and not to be thrown together.. call TDR they will make it right for you..

learn how to ride.. cherrry bomb and a pipe is tuned to the max? i recently "tuned" a stocker with t-6's and it whipped a yfz 450 with a big bore and sparks pipe.. thats redicouls gearing .. what are you guys doing racing for about 3 miles or some shit>

castrol 4T 10/40 get it at o'reilly's holds up much better than type f, shifts better in my opinion. lasts longer than auto trans fluid

good lord!!! its just a freaking piston!

hehe

talk to kevin about the slingshot he has differnt weight balls that you can use to tune the locker. you can also remove every other row of balls for less lockup.. MOST lower hp motors dont need the heavy balls. the slingshot will hold a shizzton of HP with the heavy balls. other than that its pretty much the same as tuning a std locker. i liked the 3 15% and 3 stock springs in my 350 with the std balls in every row ( with and override..) just a note. if you have an override you dont want the star mod or the shift pro..

split them now. replace everything. that way you know its all right. there are pieces all in the bearings now. and yea the rest is in the exhaust.

umm yea the silencers on the t-6 will NOT fit the t-5.. they have a differnt connection spot and also the t-6 has a 3rd mounting area for better fit. they come up onder the tank more so they dont burn the air box. t-6's are a completely new pipe silencer tube it looks like the silencer them selves are the same.

if i rember right the best thing to do is SELL THEM and buy the real thing and fuck that chinese shit

unstamped and staped look the same. one has cpi on the side the other dosent.. they did change the silencers design.. newer ones have a bolt on connection to the silencer older ones are slip fit

bump. tim's joints are excellent!! umm i mean the balljoints and mounts

this has been done already thought there was a write up on it also TIM at STELLAR machine is selling the ball joints and will include the mount bullets threaded for them. i think he said around 100 bucks for all 4. not bad. last write up i read the guy got them in and they worked fine. good cheap alternative to +2's