camatv

draft like nascar!! then the silencer BLEW off WOW you cant beat a predator typing on the computer. get your ass outside and go race the fucker! if you cant beat him i can.

i can piece you one together. i can just get you what you need have a few in pieces over here. give me a call i'll pm ya my numero

you cut about 2 inches out of the pipe where it makes its turn. then you have to expand the stinger tube. sometimes they pop up on ebay they dont really have an advantage over cpi's or other modern drag pipes. the bigger ones i believe are also a LOT more capacity..

porting would get ya to 65ish!!

great shape was going to keep them for an upcoming build run excellent on stockish to trail port motors. can email pics 400 + shipp

pics sent

turn the gas on.

maybe even sniper outframe??

yea i didnt mean YOU were a pussy i meant that the easy or pus way to break it in not the "ride it like you stole it" rock~n~roll will never die turn it up to 11 full throttle till you see god then brake way to do it...

the programable dyna ignition you can hook up to your comp with the cable adn the program then pull the curves off of it and compare them side byside to others also with the programing you can make about any curve you could ever want. most "custom" maps are done on a dyno to see what the motor likes.. the pv's will get sticky from time to time and have issue's i pull mine and clean them out from time to time.. i think i have a cheeta dome i can measure that came with the 485 originally. i can tell you it has a BIG wide bad and i know from experience that they like smaller squish bands. the smaller stroke seems to like around 9-11 width and a flat inner profile. with that style you can crank up the timing and get beast mode out of that motor. more timing ont he larger strke engines makes them run oh so not so well. but lil motors like 4's and 350's oh yea. when the PV's are sticky the motors usually wont rev much over 9000 rpms or sometimes not even much at all i know when they are stuck when i ride the bike. it just wont rev at all back in the pits and about 30 mins later and i'm back in business i have had them stick 2 times on me over the last 3 years i have been playing with pv's.. you can even watch them on the dyno as they open up and there will be a lil blip in the curve. you can time this blip and the PV and adjust porting to make some serious power. the PV's can have a major effect on the motor who ever said they have to close at 188* and open at 198* and have a 198* total exhaust?? there is more to them than that.. i would love it if these PV's used a ratchet or knob like the rotax valves to help adjust tension.. maybe that could be a MULL project?? i'd like the pv top to be redesigned to be able to change spring tension on the fly.. then icould strap it ont he dyno and "tune" the pv's//

if it chatters in only one gear the trans is shot probably need shift forks and possibly a few gears etc

those pictures above is why i prefer to use a mill with coolant set up. if you whack the tops of the dogs there is a chance of the gears poping out or ratcheting and screwing up your shift forks. the clips need to go on a certain direction to avoid them poping out the groves the snap rings can be reused but i always check the straight edge to make sure they are ok most times i just get a new set and install them on the mod that i do. i most always need the manual around to help me reasemble them i have done it a BUNCH of times but i cannot rember it by heart ( plus i dont want to screw it up HA)

get the oil out of it hopefully your clutch is ok you CANNOT use automotive oil in a bike/ atv/ dirt bike with wet clutch. you need atv/ dirtbike/ street bike specific motor oil usually is a 10-40 or a 20-50 or other weights. i personally use castrol 4T MOTORCYCLE oil in mine i get it at o'reilly's you need to refill the bike at 1.5 qts and check the vent tube from the back of the case ( inbetween the rear motor mount) and the one coming out of the clutch cover. those should run into a T fitting and then the top can go where ever its just a vent line and the height keeps the fluid from dumping out. fill it up and dont check the dip shit. if its not leaking oil its fine you can check the dip schtick after its been sitting NOT running NOT idleing NOT started at all for about 20 mins the fluid will settle down and kinda even out. usually if its on the stick i'm happy. the reason for that is when the motor is running the clutch is spinnig very fast and actually shoves all the oil into the transmission area. it takes a lil bit for it all to drain back into the clutch cover.

ha ha what about LETHAL INJECTION!! in the grill HID's are absolutely bad ass i stoped riding at night because i thought stuff was jumping out at me not sure what the hell was wrong with me!! BUT after i rode with the lil HID's i felt fine and rode quite a bit that night. those are nice headlight housings!

gas or alky. how far are you trying to go? i dune ride an alky bike with 32's onit and a stock tank. i do have to watch the tank level but havent ran out yet. usually when i am ready for a drink or a poop i hit the pits and fill it back up //

pics sent

one length. or just enough to say you beat them

i thought that graphix kit came with beer cans for your shocks?

i have a set of shear ESR plate inframe small bore silencers need some work i cna fix them up for you for 375 or sell them as is for 325. CPI unstamped out frame small bore silenced opp side pipes chrome is good except where the curve is at the front its peeled off there. silencers are the older style alluminum ones. 325 as is repacked 350 + shipping/ fees etc OR you can come pick them up i dont care located in nicekrson KS outside wichita. of course i have no idear how to get my pics small enough for this site my 14 MEG camera just wont take them small enough sorry they are posted at atv dragracers as well with pictures its free to join so if you want to see them pop over there. OR i can email the pics.

wow 2 stage reeds will make a noticeable increase in the low, mid, and top end of the motor.. the DIY timing mod is nice to do also and in all reality your probably not going to need more than +4 timing on gas. mostly the plates are needed if your going to need +7 to +12 on alky / gas motors

i'll take door number 3

does the oem manual have a break down?

sent pics i might just buy them outright also.l

i have ran 155-160 on banshee with the correct domes on 91 octaine.

probably get shit for this but i can say this. check the jetting and the bolts and coolant and stuff make sure its not going to loose something.. then i take it out to a dirt road warm them up, and make about 2-3 passes at nearly full throttle then check everything again. then make about 2-5 more full throttle runs and i mean every gear through 5th. i dont care what you read or what anyone says. i have broke in motor all pussy and heat cycle and shit. and after about a year if you take them apart they have a shit ton of blow by pass the rings and the loose power. ( i ride a LOT) after i have broke them in hard like that the engines seem to last a few years longer and the pistons are not as bad with blow by ( after 2 times the run time.) i have also seen this done on dyno's unless you guys think that those all new motors your paying for and have dyno runs for were heat cycled for a few hours ( and you paid for that time also) this is what works for me on my personal motors and what i have seen over and over again with engines i have had apart and worked on. its my own first hand personal experience. rings are seated with pressure and not just spring pressure.