camatv

i have 2 i will be doing in the next year or so. one "trainer" and one dune drag bike. i wont be using the front yfz motor mount OR the stock yfz radiator.

if the dome profile was changed it wouldnt have as much issues with pump gas. and yea pump dosent like timing! if your going to "play " with pump you need a better suited profile to run higher comp. dynas are a digital ignition and HATE outside "noise" like coils charging and firing, and stators winding up and plugs firing and making all kinds of RF bla bla bla. they dont like to be next to the coil OR fire non resistor plugs. i have had one just take a shit after about 6 years.. i thought you could download the flash to the dyna and compare it to other maps? or maybe i am thinking of the injection. been a while since i played with the maps on one. the cool thing about a dyna is it only adds timing where you want it even the stock curves go back to stock timing on upper rpm's where you DONT want timing on a plate timing curve advance you do advance the entire curve.

steel based head gaskets have to be replaced every time. the thick gasket is the "bolt on" way to get it done with the stock head. cometic makes that gasket also. they look a lot like a 4 stroke gasket and the 4 canners dont have problems i agree the head and domes is better if you are particular

they like alky also!! they do overrev much harder than fatty's NOT a drag pipe but a fun one for sure!

i think every post should start with "damn banshee" NICE

toomey t-4? look kinda weird?

its puff puff give

alky? gas? twins? single? 2-1 ? bike? its all jetted on the needle cut out. and if equiped the powerjet depending on who modified the carb and weither its a straight lectron or a FBG or PACKARD.. if you dont know if you send me a pic i can tell you what it is.

the domes should have fit?? the pipes on the stator side will have issues usually some space on the mount to clear also what intakes did they send with it? some of the UPP ones have a angle to them and if they are on backwards can move the carb towards the frame instead of towards the middle. might take a looksee at that?

screw those bucket of shitt crossover tube crap. if you buy the proper intakes with the rigth angle adn height the carbs clear the clutch arm fine. the closer the intake to the motor the better the throttle response will be. i have used 2 seperate intakes for years i really didnt like those new style leaky ass badly machined crap. the vitos bullseye intakes are great and the trinity intakes are decent as well ( yea yea i know trinity sucks bla bla bla) chariot individual intakes seemed good also, UPP intakes were also one of my fav's simple and bolt right on. the BIG cub intakes without crossover are a great way to go with bigger carbs.

me too after years of buying billet from them this was the only issue..

from what i have heard from well know, well respected, banshee builders that actually have a dyno the pipes are what they say they are an excellent low midrange well suited high rev pipe.. they have the lowend to bring an overported motor back to rideable again and thats doing a LOT! whats bad is the company has NO advertising ( besides the company webb site) no ebay offerings, and no real backing of the product. soooo they are just unheard of in this day and age of internet forums and other webb based selling. its a shame

DOOOOODE!!! that plate is KEWL as hell!!! if your going to screw around on the dyno that NEW style plate is the way to go!!! awesome! i was going to say chariot also they are actually billet AND not that high of a price for the quality i'd spend the extra 20 bucks with chariot

hmm i think you might have to take them apart the top of the pj set comes off just be low th threads you can grip it there and unscrew it OR the brass tube has to be brazed on after its in the carb i cannot rember for sure. just call packard they can walk you through it i can get you pics of ones installed on lectrons if you need also.

absolutely hands down buy 32/34 or 36/36mm HV lectrons. NO jets/ extremely easy to get parts for and JETTING is a breeze. the larger lectrons will make more bottom end AND still rev like larger carbs on top. call PACKARD and ask him about them. i dont care what these other guys say... the 32 34 will fit stock boots.

some certain engines dont even have the windows. hehehe i used to do holes or port match the windows. then i noticed it really didnt do much but make the pistons lighter on that side and sometimes cause cracks ( after a long run time) so i quit doing it. whats funny is the less i do to them now the better them seem to run..

if its a "cold sieze" then you know what happend ( wayy to much rpm before it warmed up) most cast alluminum cylinders are not as prone to cold siezure due to the pistons and cly warming up at the same time almost looks like lack of oil or lube or a lean out. you can usually hear deto when its doing it. those domes look a lil more than a 22cc might want to check that out also. the marks on the o-rings are from installation they squished out on the top of the cyl and the head they most of the time wont do that if you grease them well so they kinda slip around when you are installing them. but more often than not they kinda do that anyways.

is it the new 450 DB with the motor flipped around?? those are sweet bikes

use the force luke

ah yea the rocky mountain cheapo chain i'm going to try one on the wife's bike its a good "test mule"

mine turns orange if i eat to many cheeto's first

i didnt know DD made a chain? best i ahve EVER had was rk mkz3 or rkmkz4 hardly stretches and takes my fat ass and 100+hp motors abuse with NO issues. ever ever ever ever never..

nice rides!! its neat to hear of a major build adn switcharoo going on and then you wonder why you did it till that first wheelie out the gate at the dunes.. i'm just happy to see more and more banshee's coming back from the dead. shows them 4 pokes who's still boss.

i need XL!!

ohh also looking at the pic the uppers hymes are all the way in you can move them out pretty far most all your adjustment is done with the hymes and NOT the ball joints. i would much rather have about an inch of 2 hymes sticking out on the mount than the ball joint hangin by 2-3 threads on the end. if you take the time to get nuts for the amounts that are sticking out on the hymes and the balls you will have a much stronger front end for racing. rember if you are racing like we did around here your gonna bump some peeps and maybe tap the wal sometimes hate to have you wreck from not spending about 5 bucks on some strength.. just a thought...