camatv

depends on how well the motor is built. if its pretty mild the 10 extreme on a 6 over will probably be really fun..

one on left is OEM looks like. not sure on the right maybe long rod/ stroker piston. put the pin halfway out of one and push it in the hole of the other. the piston top will be about 5mm shorter on stroker/ 4 mill pistons.. also most have id numbers on top.

o-rings only

good luck. this isnt a budget sport.. although time is free

simple. worn trans dogs, bent shift forks, worn shiftng parts. replace everything.

BUYING FROM TRINITY - It's like eating raw chicken...... Once you do, you regret it for a long time and you really wish you had picked someone who could prepare it correctly. thats a great analagy! i totally agree

SOLD

what are the cranks?

lectron= easy to tune, easy to get parts, never needs "jets".. usually make more TQ than other carbs i have used.. PWK's great carb easy to tune ( if you have a box full of jets$$$$) work good parts easy to get.. only thing is you probably wont find many that use the lectron just becuase its not as "popular".. price new to new and the lectron is usually a lil cheaper also.. almost all the time if i show someone how to use them they never want to go back to any other type of carb.. i can take a set of lectrons NEW out of the box as long as the needle is right. have them on and TUNED in 30 mins. you dont see to many "what jets" or "jetting?" threads related to lectrons..

can i get a webbsite full of assholes?? i dig the green and black thats the best use of that kawasaki crap color ever

that smell is just me i farted a few weeks ago and it takes a lil time for the stank to make it to south africa

i dont have one cheeta pv motor that runs good. i have 2. and one that i built that is still in its early stages of "tuning" ( springer's) that lil 400 has already pissed a few peeps off.. i dont care what trinity has done sells or produces. there are plenty of shops that make a crap motor package.. HELL one local one to me ( in wichita) has a 610 cc honda 4 stroke that made 52 hp WOW>. if you put the BS aside. the cheeta casting is superior to a cub.. ( not trinity)

it is hard to do but ask andy about pricing a 400 cheeta with PV's. you CAN get the cheeta without going through trinity... the cast head is actually cheaper.. and rember just the crank, cyl, pistons, and a head are NOT going to get you a motor built. also on the cheeta you will want to spec either gas supercub style dome or on the 400/ 68mm you would need to spec cub gas 22cc domes similar to what the cub uses NOT the off shelf trinity spec monsterdetomatic domes. ALSO the porting if done on a cheeta to in my mind be done right needs to be spec'd with the powervalves. it is done much differntly than just "normal" porting that i have seen on cubs. at least what i have done on the ones i have built.. a larger bore cylinder is much easier to make the larger blade PV's work 10 times better. try pricing a 485cc motor. 73mm bore/ 4 mill stroke i'd also highly recomend a cut modified stock transmission, billet basket, and HD clutch kit with springs. you will also need a differnt pipe ( cpi, SNIPER, SHEAR.) i'd recomend sniper for an excellent mid/top pipe OR the shear for a tractable topend overrev pipe. i personally feel those 2 pipe choices are superior to the CPI BUT some prefer the cpi for whatever reason.. you can get away with stock carbs and modified reeds BUT they like larger carbs. i'd suggest 34/36 or 36/36 or 36/38 HV lectrons... and finally i would recomend a 4 mill HOTRODS crank with american built TZ bearing fully welded. you will also need seals ( god i hope you buy OEM) and all the other gaskets for the motor. and someone to assemble, mock , and custom build the motor. if tuned right and built this way, proper maintenance you would have an unbelieveable well running, and very reliable motor. unless some kind of unknowable total mechaincal melt down happend..

you would use absolutely nothing in your sig.. you would have to build from scratch the price differnce would be minimal.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two-stroke_power_valve_system this is a great read. also IF the PV system is such a waste why did ALL the major manu's design, and use it on their motors?

larger motors create more tq and a lil more HP but for the massive CC increase adn additional costs of transmission, clutching, billet cases, special Huge pipes etc to me there is no comparison. compare apples to apples.. the serval is a good option but if $$$$ alows the PV motor is far supior. IF set up right. in my opinion the pv motors were to far and few to be widely understood. the setup was just flat wrong when they were released. the cylinder design is amazing in what it "fixes" from cub's, super cub's, and stock. the PV works by varying the exhaust duration. the spring can be changed and the release of gasses ( pressure ) can be tuned a lil bit. a 535 or 485 PV cheeta can be built to need one hell of a chassis to handle the broad power they produce. a pump gas cheeta wouldnt need a massive billet transmission or a 10 plate clutch to live. it wouldnt need a billet set of cases to stay together. of course a 4 mill DM wouldnt necessairly need all these items. BUT still uses a custom head, custom intake, reeds setup and needs major work to even top cases stock cases to fit. in my opinion apples to apples comparison they are an excellent choice for a dune/ drag motor they are just not the " BBD " right now. as far as being outdated? how do you figure that? to me the CUB is an outdated design. its a very necessary cylinder i believe but pure head design wise its based off of a cylinder bolt pattern of the 70's...

with a stock uncut un modified trans after the 2nd pas the trans will be hot and it wont shift for shit. the PV motor if its even close will make so much low end on a 4 over it will probably be hard to launch right. looks like i may be building a complete bike for a guy over then next few months will be a 421 - 485 cheeta pv 4 mill and have +4 arm, +3 +1 Long travel a-arms and full axis shocks. should be a fun bike.

take to cover off and check it out. if the shifter is jacked up and sideways replace it all.

i'd recomend a trans upgrade. clutch upgrade and figure out why the seal went bad in the first place then i'd probably have the crank true'd and welded and check everythign out in the cases.. oh and clean everything and wash out all the old clutch material thats in there ( that grey black nasty you will see all over the place). its a motor not a facuet in the sink or a piece of siding on your house. do it right or you'll be in there again.

maybe bad head gasket/ o-ring. plus if you blow an o-ring or similar its best to dump the coolant and drain the cyls and start it if you dont have time to pull the head and get it all out. call the shop that built it.

i would say buy the mattoon.. its a great price its a 8 plate if you want to do that. the backing plate is cromoly and thicker than most any other basket the bolts are 5/16 instead of lil bitty and the cusions are hard as hell. stock baskets suck. the backing plates and rivets are the only thing good about them. the cusions blow out and the fingers break in anything over 60 hp. in a TT situation i would HIGHLY recomend a basket.

if the cheeta isnt built right it will deto on race fuel and blow the cylinder off before the race is even over HA HA!!

sheeeeeett all this drama is just after the fact.. these trips are bad ass no way around it its the one get together i will always look forward to and make absolute sure i'm there if im working and my JOB wont let me go i'd quit fuck it and yea if ya say some wack shit to me or koolaide its gonna happen!! hell i used to wave bye bye to the nerfbar racers.. i've done some real dick moves out there for sure. if ya cannot take a joke stay in the truck!!

are those hand coned CPI's? thats sweet

if I built and setup the cheeta i'd say its gonna eat the stocker alive. plain and simple. i'm helping springer with his lil 400 and its been fun.