.

I'd say you could go with 3 things. Pull the head on it and check it out, if everything seems alright, clean the hell out of your carbs and see if you can get both cylinders firing and run it. 2. if the topend looks messed up, rehone it/bore it if you have to, get some rings (pistons if you have to)and throw it back together and run it. 3. Chances are if it sucked sand it blew it in the bottom end which is where it would go first. Sand doesnt like to move to well when it sticks to oil, and it could work its way down into your crank bearings.....and you could get a nice kaboom from a bearing letting go. Pull everything apart, clean it very well......and work your way back up through the previous stuff I wrote.

That would be a lot of oil. Nope...your measuring parts actually. Kinda like widgets. 40 parts = ounces, gallons, whatever you want to measure. 40:1 would be 40 parts gas: 1 part oil. 40 ounces of gas: 1 ounce oil. etc etc.

You'll lose the vin numbers on the frame if its powdercoated. An engine vin number dont mean crap. You could tell them that the frame was powdercoated at one time and it isnt the original engine in it. Just a thought.

Looking for a good bottom end that someone lost the crank on it. Need the cases to be good, trans, clutch etc. Dont care to greatly on the condition of the clutches etc, just needs to be there. Stator side would be nice as well. Gonna be building a stroker and gotta have a good platform to start.

while cranking compression might not be the same compression as what the compression might be when the cylinder fires, it is a good guideline to gauge what fuel you need to run. Thats how the whole test came about. It would be hard to get a compression reading with the cylinder actually firing, so they found out what it was when it wasnt firing and found the area where you need to run race fuel etc. The 40psi difference could be a big difference in cranking pressure to actual firing pressure. You say 4-6 times greater. I'll say 5. say my pressure was 100. X that by 5 and its 500. Say it was 120 x 5. Thats 600. a 1/6th more compression. I'm sure thats not exact. But its the same general idea. I tend to think of a cylinder as a pipebomb. To say that it is turning heat energy to mechanical energy is a little wrong. In fact it is the force of the explosion that needs to be transformed into mechanical energy. Take Nitromethane for instance. Very volatile, if you hit it with a hammer it will explode. One of the benefits of it is that it runs very cool and wont fry an engine literally. But it produces an immense explosion (600hp worth per cylinder in a hemi engine) Now explosion is a type of heat expansion, but not in the way that it is what is creating the power. If that would be so, those drag engines would be a molten piece of Iron by the end of the run. Thats why some run alcohol and methanol as well. Better explosiveness, and that burns cooler than gas. Now back to the pipebomb theory. When it explodes it is going to find the easiest way of travel. In an engine it is the same theory. Which is going to be the piston. The idea of creating a better dome and combustion chamber is to create a way to direct that explosion more downard on the piston. And that is the way to effectively produce power in an engine. (That was the whole idea on creating the "hemi" engine in mopar which our engines have the same idea) The way to create the most power in an engine with the fuel used is to find the compression that the fuel likes to be compressed at for the best explosion, and the right mixture of air mixed in to the fuel. And then take that force and direct it down on the piston as best as possible with combustion chamber design. And as far as rings sealing, their is also the flex of the ring up and down that creates seal. Almost like a windshield wiper, but on a whole different level. I'm sure theirs other factors as well, but thats the main gist.

first thing you want to do is get a compression checker and check your compression. Anything around 100-105 your ready for a rebuild (depending on elevation). Or a variance of 5-10 lbs of difference between cylinders. Next thing to do is get a clymers manual. Its not very hard to do. Only thing I needed the manual for is torque specifications and specifications for movement of the rod and crank separation to make sure everything was still in check. Its pretty straight forward, pull the pipes, carb, coolant lines (dont forget the little bolts in the cylinder sides to empty coolant) carbs, head and pull the cylinders off. Pull the intake and reedcages off too. Go have a machinist mic them for what size pistons you should get, buy the pistons (get a kit for everything, its cheaper) then take the pistons and cylinders back to the machinist so he can bore the cylinders to the specs of the rings that come with the pistons. Pull the pistons off the rods (put a rag down in the bottom end so you dont lose anything down there), put the new pistons, wrist pin, wristpin bearings on and put it all back together. Theres tons of information on here about the process, what kits to buy, where to buy the kit, just do some searching on here, its been discussed pretty well recently.

lol @ that.....thats why I'm only running only about 4 gallons of the honda stuff through it then switching over to my regular oil.......wait....I run honda trans oil in it as well.....I'm just screwed any way you look at it......no wonder my shee is so slow.

all I know is that I boosted my compression to 170 psi and the bottom end screamed. You dont add psi for top end, you add it for getting you to the top end. It is a torque increaser. I agree that there is more to it than that, and that if an engine has been taken apart before the cylinders could have been decked, and that squish angle and all the other aspects could create a better detonation to push down on the piston. Thats what R&D is all about. You build a head, create a dome for it and dyno it, pull that dome off and put a different cut dome on....and dyno it. And you find the best dome for a stock engine setup....and run with that for your line. And if you create a better dome....you start running that one. Now say dan at patriot racing builds me a stroker motor, He's gonna know what kind of cut dome is going to create the best downward force on the piston and cut me a dome to go along with it. Again R&D comes into it. All in all, to put out an aftermarket head, you are putting out custom cut domes for a stock style setup. There has to be R&D work to be able to put one out in the first place. So maybe another company knows of a dome that could create better downward force on the piston, and has done more R&D work. I for example, have owned my banshee from day 1, and if it goes to a machinist, I know every little thing done to them. When I talk to a builder when I get my engine worked on porting/stroking etc. I'm going to ask him about his domes and what he's tried, and what he feels works best and have him cut me a custom dome for that engines specifics. RK Tek, say I have my stock engine, which I have an aftermarket head on it, and running 18cc domes at 175 psi. When I put my 21cc domes it drops it to like 135 or so. I notice a drop in torque. I can let off the throttle on flat ground and it will chug along until I hit the kill switch with the higher compression and it wont with the lower. Are you saying that you can build me a dome thats at like 135 psi or so that will create more power/torque than what my 175psi domes are creating? Granted you may have more R&D design work on your domes than what are on the domes I have now, and might be able to create an ounce or two more downward thrust but 40psi difference worth? I'm not discrediting you, I just find it hard to believe from the power difference I notice. Building domes for a worked engine is a different story. I dont know how much a longrod stroker engine varies from engine to engine, or from builder to builder but that all comes down to R&D as well. If they dont vary, then I assume that you've done extensive R&D on longrod strokers and know exactly what dome application needs to be cut for each application possible to create the most downward thrust on the piston? And if they do vary, I assume I'd have to send you my engine for you to build the way that you build engines and know from again, R&D, which way a dome needs to be cut to create the most power?

I dont know if this is right or not, but I believe it fires twice. Once when its up, and once when its down. Pull both caps off and put plugs in them and hold them to a ground and kick it over, see if they both fire at the same time. I believe they do but not sure.

I'm guessing it doesnt have a carburetor. It's probably fuel injected.

I wonder if thats how jim dunken really ports them? I've heard of being able to port and get rid of the bridge.....but I dunno....

Just broke mine in and passion recommended that honda 2R stuff or whatever its called. It's non synthetic and for oil injection/premix applications. I went through my 2 15 minute heat cycles, letting it cool down inbetween. Then took her around the yard for like 15 minutes in 1st gear never getting into the powerband at all and going about 1/4 throttle. Let it cool down and checked the torque on all the head and cylinder nuts. Took it out for another 15 minutes going half throttle and getting into the powerband a little, started shifting it through the gears, always varying the throttle, not staying at the same rpm for longer than 5 or so seconds. Took it back and let it cool down. Then I rode it for like 30 to 45 minutes up to 3/4 throttle. By this time the engines rings are seating pretty good. Thats as far as I got with my break in. But next time I should be able to go full throttle. You'll feel where the engine doesnt want to go. If you want I'd adjust your pipes all the way in for top end. Your powerband will come on later when your first breaking it in and it'll rev out farther for when you get to rev it out all the way. Dont keep it at full throttle for any length of time for the first 5 gallons or so of gas and you should be good to go. You also might want to have them adjusted for top end with that stroker motor. You'll have plenty of low end grunt now. With it being stock I found that all the way for topend then backed off 2 turns the powerband was coming on just right in the trails, being able to ride in that sweet spot right before powerband in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. I guess once you get it broken in you can adjust it to sit in that sweet spot. On a side note, you still have that shortened swingarm?

your asking a bit much man. I can get a brand new one for 4900 before taxes, and theres used ones on here with tons of mods going for 4000 Just letting ya know

take that back, go to motosport.com get the wiseco kit, its a good piston, their forged so you need to just let them warm up for a minute longer than a cast. Lighter as well. $150 bucks, free shipping. Call them up and tell them you want a tracking number for it right away when they ship. phone # is 18666676288

dude...dont go there. Go to moto-man.com or magicracing.com or I cant think of a few others right now. You can get a whole top end kit including gaskets and writpin bearings for $150. If you cant get it from those 2 sites for 150 let me know....I'll go look in my dirtwheels mag.

damn....I had to close the page it was blinding me so bad. Auction says its for the cylinders only.....I guess the piece of paper they're sitting on isnt included?

get yourself some realtors and you'll be good to go. As soon as snow starts sticking to the roads......we're all over them. And its great when we have a snow emergency, some roads suck cause they arent plowed, but you find some good plowed roads and the riding is great.....and your allowed to.

All I got to say is that its not going to work. Its not going to create more jobs, maybe a few....but nothing to stimulate the economy. It's not changing the cash flow, its decreasing it if anything. People work 40 hours a week to pay for things they need......they work overtime for things that they dont need. You take away the overtime....you take away people buying stuff. Sure....you might get a few more people that now have jobs that dont like being on unemployment buying things that they need....but not many. I'm a democrat at heart, but I voted for bush. The democrats let the country run free for a long while.....and we did well. But it was time to tighten the reigns up and batten down the hatches. The world is a changing place and if you let things run free for to long it'll come back to haunt you. This however is taking it to far. All he is doing is taking money out of workers pockets that are still going to be working the overtime hours.....just not getting paid the overtime pay....and that is going to keep them from buying things because they have to worry about the things they need. Take me for example. I drive a recycling truck and have a route to pick up. It takes me about 50 hours to pick up my routes for the week. I'm still going to have to work those 50 hours to pick up the route.....just not get paid as much. Now I wont be able to buy the stuff I would like for my banshee, tools to work on the banshee, etc etc. which is HURTING the economy. Basically Bush is trying to get workers to be like.....fine....I wont work the overtime if i'm not gonna get paid more, so the company will have to hire more workers to make up for the lost output. Which is good in theory.....but not how it is in real life. Fact is.....we need that money, and we'll make as close to it as possible.....even without getting that extra pay. Gotta pay the mortgage ya know?

yeah yeah....I know....my posts are always long

Fried a ring on my last day of riding down at the Hatfield McCoy trails in WV on the 3rd or 4th day of September. Pulled the jugs off, took them to the machinist, got the bore size to go with.....and ordered pistons from RECREATION UNLIMITED for $140 shipped to my door. Good price maybe......if you dont mind not being able to get a hold of them by phone or email for a good 3 weeks. Then get an email that they must be lost in the mail and that they are putting a tracer out on the package, and tell your postmaster so he can deal with it from my side. Another 2 weeks go by of trying to get a tracking # or reference # to give to my postmaster.....and no replies. Finally I get a email saying that it was lost, that they are going to file it with their insurance company, and they'll send me out another kit. I told them not to bother, because I went somewhere else. I get the kit a week later, missing a piston, wrist pin, rings, and wrist pin bearing,....and to top it all off, the kit came in a bag. Not a box or anything, just banging around in a bag. So thanks to Meat_Head I've gotten cylinders, pistons, wrist pins, and rings sent to me that I threw on Sunday. Stole the wristpin bearing and gasket kit out of the kit that Rec Unlimited sent me, and finally got it back together. Went through its 2 heat cycles, then took it around the one flat track varying the rpm up and down and blipping it up to about 1/4 throttle. Took it back and let it cool down, had a few beers, in celebration of actually being able to ride on the thing. Second ride, same thing going to about 1/2 throttle. I was getting into the powerband with this one a little bit and it wanted to go there so I let it. A little over half throttle when it started getting into the thick of the powerband you could feel it didnt want to go there yet. Played around bringing it up to that point....and every few times you brought it up there, you could give it a little more. Took it back and let it cool down. Then I actually got to ride the frickin thing. Riding it through the woods, hitting the one little hillclimb, took it out on some road riding, giving the engine a little stress, but not to much to hurt it. I could only take it to about 3/4 throttle and it didnt want to go any farther really. I rode it for about half an hour and then took it back for the night. Overall I can feel that the wiseco's are a lighter piston than the stock pistons and the engine wants to rev out faster. Its not fully broken in yet so I cant really tell to much, but it feels so good to just be able to ride it again. I'll get some pictures of it after I give it a real good cleaning. I got a chrome stock front bumper and crossover tube from nyuk (old crossover tube had rub marks in it from tubes/wires) that with the bumper on when you look at it from the front with the chrome a-arms it looks pretty sweet. I'll have that ebay grille soon as well. So thanks to Meat_Head, Nyuk, and all the others that have steered me in the right way of stuff I needed to know, and things I've needed.

Decided to remove the paint on my old jugs last night and got some of the DupliColor Paint stripper. You can get it from pretty many places, anywhere that has duplicolor spray paint mainly. Sprayed it on and 5-10 minutes later it was ready to go. I let them sit for like 15 minutes, and then I put them under water and I could just rub it off with my hand. I used a toothbrush for the small areas but the stuff basically fell off. I know some of you have had problems removing paint with different things, but I gotta say, this stuff is amazing.

Maier isnt stock.

yeah, you can remove them and put on all different sorts of colors, kind of mix and match your own plastic.....make it look like one of those vw bugs with all different panels.

2004 is the first year they've come with white tank plastic. Anyone gone with another color or some fullbores or something else that they dont need the white plastic anymore? Keep me in mind if you decide to. Needs to be in good shape.

ha ha....she does she does. Keep me in mind, I'm gonna be keeping my eye out on ebay and everywhere for one. Dont want to spend a lot for it, but if everythings good I gotta weigh my options. Even if the cranks bad, It could be the engine I build to be a stroker.