.

Is the parking brake still connected? Check down at the rear brake caliper and push on it. Sometimes that will stick some and trigger the switch a little making it do it. Follow the wire coming out of the clutch lever and disconnect that plug.

your saying holeshots last longer than razr's? They're an alright tire, all they do is spin for me with a stock swingarm though. That first couple rides with them turned either way they'd hook pretty good, but once the edges wore off they've been downhill ever since. I'm sure when I get a -1 swingarm on them they'd hook a little better.

Just a thought, if your gonna be running a helmet cam, you gotta get a digital camera with a video input. And instead of mounting a camera to the shee, why dont you just get another velcro piece and velcro the helmet cam to your shee. It'd be much easier. You'll basically get the same picture, but with less shaking if you have it mounted to your body. On a side note, I'm so incredibly pissed. Rode for like 5 minutes around the block of my buddies with the helmet cam on to check everything out on it, then went to our one riding area, and put the camera on camera mode instead of vcr mode by accident. The next 2 hours of riding footage all you get is the sound.....and a black picture of my camcorder shooting in my backpack.....and then at the end of the ride I do a wheelie on gravel and end up doing a cartwheel on my shee, bending an a-arm, and breaking my camcorder.......basically all for nothing. For xmas I'm getting my camcorder fixed ($230 some odd dollars) and I'll be back in business. It was quite an expensive wreck. It's a sony TRV330. Pretty sweet camcorder.

I didnt say you were giving it away. I'm just saying its not a small problem. So I'll reiterate. You'll have to pull the whole quad apart, get the transmission gears pulled apart, get a second gear for it, might as well do the reverse for it as well because thats sure to go next (built the same way the 2nd gear is), get all new gaskets for it, and then get the gears pressed back together, put the whole engine back together, put the quad back together. Yup.....sounds like a little problem. It aint cheap either. Go sell it on ebay, where people wont know whats involved. You'll get more money for it than you ever will here. Hopefully you'll find someone close so you wont have to deal with shipping problems or deadbeat bidders. I'll still give you 2 grand for it and come pick it up......if the rest of it is in good condition......hell....I havent even seen a pic of it yet.

You got something against us civilians? lol....j/k man. And about the LRD adjustible pipes.....I love mine. I had to grind out the one silencer mount because it made the one silencer a little higher than the other, but the rest went on smooth. If you use the right sealant for them they wont leak on you. And thats why you test how you want your pipes powerband to come on, and then set it. I was talking to the guy at LRD about it and how the mx'ers seal them when they adjust them to the track they're riding. They dont even pull them apart, they figure out how they want it tuned during practice the day before, and then silicone the shit out of them around the seals on the outside, leave it for the night, and then run it the next day. They actually have guys that they sponsor that have sets sealed and ready to run for different races that they already know how they want to run it.

I would say that the lid is more restrictive. It looks to be made of the same material the filter is made of. If they made an outerwear material lid I would think that it would be about the same. But that would kind of almost be the same as running a K&N filter inside another one. I know they make the outerwear lids for 400EX's and such.....havent seen one for a banshee.

Thanks man, you beat me to it. Stuff works awesome.

lol @ small 2nd gear problem.

She's pretty much like getting a Big T-bone steak that is mostly bone. Give me something with a little more meat on it. Dont get me wrong.....I'd still hit it, just like I'd still eat the T-bone.....but it'd look a lot better with a little more meat on it.

holy crap dude. Your gettin an insane amount for that engine. That other one sold for 800. You could probably buy a whole new banshee basically by the time that thing is gonna be done being sold.

Boonman said: Well no kidding. They were w-4's. Thats like comparing blasters to banshees in the JL lineup. On another note. There's 2 types of subs. Ones that pound, and ones that create quality sound. And they both interlay into each other. The W6's that I have were built for mainly quality sound, with the ability to still produce a decent DB level. Theres subs out there that create better sound, but dont hit as hard, and subs that hit harder, but dont sound as good. JL kinda put themselves on another level with the introduction of their w6 that it was giving off both qualities with a higher db without hurting sound quality. And it all starts with a powerful output head unit, going to an amplifier that will bring out the qualities of the sub. And I gotta admit, The digital synchronizer I got is one of the best things I've ever gotten for a stereo system. It completely changes the way the bass is. It incorporates it into the rest of the music and just feels like its more around you then coming at you. And then you can hang the microphone on the rearview mirror and set a soundstage thats in front of you (you can save 4 different points of where the microphone is) Or in a db contest you can have all your sound hitting the db reader at the same time (component speakers add db as well)

lol.....stop getting your panties in a ruffle. RZ engines are a wholeeeee nother package. I'd pay a lot more for one than a banshee engine. Tach output, powervalves, better gears. and lol @ 900 being a good starting point. Ebay: 4 hours left @ 610.00......and a tenth less of a bore. A running engine is a running engine. Yours might have less hours, but this one might not have that many more?.....and I'm sure the compression is about the same. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2447018301 Were not trying to be dicks. We're also not gonna pay top dollar. Not many of us need a complete running engine unless were looking to complete a roller. I myself would of just had it for a back up, and to be able to build a stroker out of the engine I have now, when it wears out.

nope, no drain plug for the crankcase. Your gonna have to pull the bottom end to flush it with kerosene anyway. I'm not positive but i heard someone on here splitting the cases upside down and you didnt have to pull the rest of the engine apart. But since yours is already apart. Pull the top case and get to cleaning. Make sure its really clean, you dont want metal shavings getting into the crank bearings. Especially if its a new crank.

if you do a search on it you should come up with your answers. I posted how I break in engines and a few others have as well since the new forums have come along. It's probably gone through its initial heat cycles, I know yamaha does one when they put it together, and if he says he's run it in his garage for a heat cycle, you should be able to go to the first stages of riding it around varying the throttle. Check everything out on it, if its never seen dirt, you'll be able to tell. The nubs on the stock tires should be perfect basically. It should look exactly like it does on the showroom floor. Check every little thing out about it. Listen to the engine, it should be a pretty clean running sound. Ask him tons of questions. Why he's selling it, what exactly he's done to it since its left the showroom floor, etc etc.

You dont happen to have the top part of the kickstarter do you?

I'll give ya 350 + shipping

You think thats long......I had to wait over 2 months.......My girlfriend was pretty sore.....and relieved....that I got my shee back together again. Now I have 2 stress relievers again.

just replace them all, its the ones on the domes that are doing it. You have an aftermarket head right?

I dont know, its something to think about. If you can get away with a hone and its just that one cylinder that is scored it'll probably only cost you a couple bucks for the hone to have a machinist do it, a couple bucks for the rings, and 16 or so for the orings (which I would replace anyway for the fact to eliminate something that could be causing a problem). If the piston has scoring on it i'd replace that too which would be 60 or so dollars. If you just hone you dont need to replace the pistons, just rings. You need to do that so they seat together with each other. If that one piston is scored though I'd replace it, you dont want to be 100 hours in and break a skirt because it was scored. I'd wait for passion or someone else to reply on these thoughts as well. I'm no engine builder, just been around here and been working on stuff for a long time and have seen a lot and these are my thoughts of what could be causing the problem. My main thought would be what caused the scoring on the cylinder wall?

Its good to see some fullbores getting dirty/scratched....makes me wanting to get some much more believable.

Obviously something scored those walls. I would bet thats where some of your loss in compression is. You might not have enough run time on them to get a real good reading though. Are those brand new orings you have on there? They look pretty shot to me, and if you look at the pic of the bad dome it looks to have been leaking coolant (on mine you could see where it was leaking coolant to the inside and you can pretty much there) The ring looks more worn in that spot. You can see the rubber breaking apart on the dome. Check this site out that was on here a little while back: http://www.mztech.fsnet.co.uk/workshop/wrk_piston.html Check out the chipped crown drowned. Yours looks to be of the same thing going on just at a very beginning stage. Check out the marks on the piston. Kind of looks what your cylinder walls look like, just at a longer stage. I'd be willing to bet that your coolant was leaking pretty good. How many hours do you have on the engine? If you rode it for a while would the coolant bubble? I'd be willing to bet that it was a coolant leak. It would explain the loss in compression from leaking into the coolant, plus through the scoring (more through to the coolant (mine was about 10 psi almost). It would explain the coating on the piston, it would explain the scores on the walls (according to that site), and it would explain why the one side of the dome is darker like that where it was leaking. I would say pull the jugs and see if you can get rid of that scoring with a hone (should be able to with how you feel the scoring), and get some new rings and reseat them doing a very thorough break in. (if you havent do a search on here, I know i've left one of how I do my break ins) I dont know how the pistons look, if their bad a new ones only like 60 bucks, get some new orings, and try it again. I've been sitting here trying to think of whats wrong with your engine man, and was concentrating on that scoring.....and took another look at the domes and it all came together. Hope its whats wrong considering that would be the least of problems to happen.

why dont you go try to find a snowmobile forum to ask crap like this. Your posts started off like you were just stupid to a banshee, which a lot of people are at first because they saw what they liked at the dealership and bought one.......now your just coming off as just plain stupid. Use some common sense man, and if you want to ask stuff about banshees here cool, and after you start contributing some to this site if you want to ask about some other stuff, people might get some respect to give you a knowledgeable answer. Your shit just plain stinks.....plain and simple.

Is that scoring on the cylinder wall?

Reason I say it is that my buddy blew a head gasket on his 250R and it would just keep pushing coolant into his overflow bottle until that overflowed. Last winter I took it into deep ass snow, overheated it, fried an innner o-ring and it started pressurizing my coolant. From then on whenever I'd ride it really hard my coolant would sound like it was boiling, or my 4wheeler was overheating. It was actually just the pressure being added to the coolant system. I replaced the orings and now its fine. I check the coolant in my radiator all the time, and in the overflow bottle it likes to sit with just a little bit in it, and when it heats up it fills up to add more line, and cools back down to just a little in it. It's weird, if I add some up to the fill line when its cold, or up to the full line when its hot (should still have plenty of room considering where it fills up to when its hot) it'll overflow it the next time I ride it and go back to where it was. Figure that one out

are you talking about the distribution block? My line coming out of my mastercylinder was too long so I just didnt mount the block back up. It's just sitting in there and it's fine. Dont know what your exact case is but zip ties are always a good option.