.

yeah, and it sucks! It's cool if you've got a worked 4x4 truck. There's much better places to ride that are still free. Place we've been going just got shut down pretty good though 2 weeks ago because some kids decided to smash all the windows of the heavy equipment for the coal mining. It's alright, still other places to go. Tower City is a little less rocky to ride, but those private parks are getting so damn expensive nowadays. If you could get a camping area going, and a waiver that if anything happens you cant sue, bathrooms, and a powerwasher would be nice. Showers would also be really nice.

correct me if i'm wrong, but I believe your aftermarket is supposed to flow slower, to dissipate more heat into the coolant, and go through the radiator slower to get rid of it. Do you notice your coolant bubbling after riding it hard? If he heated up your impeller to the point of warping or whatever, chances are he coulda fried one of the o-rings and its pressurizing your coolant.

I forget which one it is on mine, the left one if I'm thinking correctly. my carbs are sync'd, jetting is accurate, no airleaks, air screws are adjusted the same, everything is perfect on it. But the one side smokes a little more than the other. It always has. And when I took the pipes off that one has a little more residue on the inside than the other pipe. Only thing I can guess is that the one carb doesnt atomize the fuel as well. I've even put different cylinders on and it still does it. I remembered back about the fuel line length maybe having something to do with it, but I cant see that being it. I just run with it. When its cold and smoking you can really notice it, but when it warms up, the smoke basically disappears out of the one, but you can slightly see it out the other. I guess I'll figure it out when I get portwork done and throw some taperbored 30's on it eventually.

lol, what he said, just make sure you grab onto both sparkplugs tightly in both hands when you kick it over.

when you took your head off did you try moving the pistons back and forth? How many hours do you have on the top end? When you get off the throttle or your kind of feathering the throttle to keep your engine spinning but not putting any load on it or revving down do you get a chatter type sound?

see, heres where I differ. I love my Alpine head unit. It cost me almost 800 back in the day and was the first to have a 4v preout to my amps and separate subwoofer preout. It doesnt have any watts for speakers coming out of it, just preouts. I still use it to this day and its been through 3 different vehicles. I have a 12 disc changer to go with it, an alpine digital synchronizer that time delays all my speakers to hit a microphone at the same time to set a stage, and a PPI pro650 6 channel amp running everything. My componets are 6 1/2 mb quart 3 ways and I'm running 2 12" JLW6's. The subs have seen their day and the components could be upgraded, but I plan on buying a 96 Impala for my system vehicle one of these days. I'll run my amp to my highs and 4 8's, and then get a separate sub amp that I'm going to run to 4 12"s that I'm going to put 2 of them in the front kickpanels and 2 in the rear. 8's will go in the center console. My alpine unit is still technology wise pretty current, so theirs been no need to upgrade. It's got a rotary knob for the volume, its simple, does its job, and has held up rather well for me. I had to replace the front buttons on it because I wore them out though. Which is no big deal considering the wear and tear it's gone through. It's only skipped on me 5 times in the 8 or so years I've owned it. I've been out of the game for a few years now so I dont know whats on the up and up now, but I know my system has withstood the test of time.

with a dremel, sanding pads, buffing pads, and then start polishing......to put it simply.

Is the sound coming from inside the engine or out the pipes? Packing maybe gone bad? Blew it out? If its coming from inside the engine, take a screwdriver and hold it against parts of the engine, and hold the other end to your ear.....you'll be able to hear better where its coming from.

hey deuce, I think he's trying to state that because of how the dome is cut, it is combusting a certain percentage of the fuel. Say I'm running a regular old pro design dome, and I switch from 21 to 18cc and run higher compression, I'm going to feel that. Now say that I switch from my 18cc pro design dome to a 20cc dome that rkt custom designed for my engine. It may have a lower compression, but it will combust a greater percentage of the fuel, giving more downard thrust on the piston creating more power. Now I'm sure if I went from the 20cc dome he designed to the 18cc dome he designed.....I'd feel the same increase, just on a greater level than with the pro design.....thats what he's trying to say I think

the 5 gallon one that boonman has will, but they also make another one that uses your stock plastic, so I assume it wont hit anything.

I've gotten beaten by a raptor, basically we were stock vs stock (maybe airfilter and pipes on both) It was on wet grass and he was just getting better traction. I kill him now though. And my buddies 330R we're neck and neck everytime we race. Its basically whoever gets the better start. If I could pull longer gears I think i'd beat him consistently. Now my engine is nice and fresh though...so I should be able to take him too.

I bought the pro flo foam filter kit that has a dual stage filter. I oil the inner yellow one and throw the red outer one over that and have never had anything penetrate through to the inside. I'd consider it a do all setup, I cut the bottom part of the thing on the bottom of the airbox that keeps mud and stuff out off, so it'll drain water out. They make a one way valve type setup that'll flow water out of it as fast as it goes in, but havent gotten it yet. I've gone through mudholes that i've had to gone over the airbox and come back out of it without even sucking water (maybe a tiny bit, it studdered the one time I was in it deep), but it cleaned right out after a little warble. I ride in coal dust which is probably the finest dust you'll ever ride in, and its never gotten through to the intake. I'm seriously impressed by it, the filter just keeps coming back for more and whatever I can throw at it, it just takes it in stride. I do know its limits and dont take it into rivers where I know that the filter would be under water for any length of time. But besides that......its gone through it. It might not flow as good as a clamp on K&N setup, but its not meant for that. It all depends on your riding situation. If you ride sand, go with that, or something of the like. If you ride sand/dirt/non-muddy/non really dusty situations, The K&N with the airbox might be a good choice. If you ride really dusty, muddy, watery, conditions go with the pro flo foam setup. My buddy has a 400ex and he runs the K&N with a skin in the coal dust. I've pulled off his airfilter and run my finger and its got coal dust in the intake tract.....I finally talked him into a foam. It would be even nicer if they made a skin for the pro flo foam setup.

if you dont want to cut it, I believe IMS makes a tank that is only 4.5 gallons, that you dont have to cut your plastic.

lol @ one question

I'll give you 200 cash today and come pick up the engine if its got the kickstarter on it. When you lost the crank did it mess up the cases or the cylinders or anything?

yeah....they've been trying to recall it for a couple years now. Save your receipts. Another buddy of mine wrote up a workorder for doing the work on it. Some people are having it lock up the rear tires going down the road, or up hills and such and getting hurt. My buddy got lucky and when it happened it just spun the engine. He was in 2nd gear wot hitting a pretty big hill. Consider yourself lucky if you get 1500 for it. First off its an 01, and that'll turn a lot of people away, and then its got a bad tranny, which will turn even more away. Question is.....if you think its worth 2500 as it sits, after 1000 to fix the tranny (more if you want to fix the reverse gear problem too while your in there), do you have enough other mods to it that your going to get your 3500+ out of it afterward? Keep in mind that people will still turn away if they have any idea of what was wrong with the 01's. On a side note. I've got a 200x that runs, 2 extra engines for it (one with a high compression top end with about 1/2 hour on it, and tons of extra parts from another x that I parted out (basically everything except frame, swingarm). I'll trade you that + 1000 for it. 200x is worth like 500, engines about 200 a piece, plus all the extra shit, front brake system, throttle setup including carb, front shocks, rear shock, front plastic, and other little crap. And I'll drop it off at your door, and pick the raptor up.

I'm half tempted to get a nice billet one....but its just a frickin kickstarter.

thanks for having this discussion with me, and our disagreeing has put us on the same plane. I'm all into new ideas. Now for another question. Say your head that produces 140 psi is producing more power than anothers head that is 170 psi, can you produce a head that will produce 170 psi that will be even more powerful? I dont know if designs would have to be changed or you could use the same idea, just on a tighter scale. I would guess it would change because you are dealing with a higher compression of the mixture which would be harder to make efficient. I'm all into learning new things, and i've gotten crap about my posts being so long sometimes, but i'm like a curious kid that asks why a lot and you cant shut up sometimes. Your last post put all the rest of the posts into a good general understanding.

yeah, the splines on second gear in the 01's have 3 tabs that are pretty darn small that lock in, they tend to shear off quite easily. Reverse is another thing to look for.....that probably wont be that far behind. My buddy has an 01 and 1500-2000 dollars later he could ride his raptor again.....he also put a cam and piston in it, valves, etc and ended up spending like 2500+ I can find an 01 that has already had the work done to it for cheaper than it would cost to buy it for 2500 and do the work. Not to flame you or anything....but raptors suck.....they're bigger money pits than banshees. Granted, you can extract great power and torque out of them, my buddies just flat out hauls. But he put over 2500 into the inside of the engine alone. And now to handle that on a tipsy turvy chassis he's gonna have to get a-arms, shocks, swingarm, axle, etc etc. just to be able to put that power to good use. It's scary to ride......not a good scary, like this chassis setup cant handle this engine scary.

if you get a ratio rite cup....get one of those ones that has the screw on lid for it. Makes it a lot easier to keep it clean, and a lot easier to get the excess oil off the sides with gas.

I didnt actually lose the whole thing, just the top part that folds out. It was kind of funny actually. We came up to a resting spot, and my buddy on his 440ex starts playing with his clutch like wtf. Pulls on the clutch cable and it pops right out, cause the cable broke. I'm off my shee and just happen to glance down at it and it was missing. What are the chances of both of us ending our riding day at the same time because of things that happened to both our quads......its usually just one persons that ends it.

I will soon if I cant find one by my next ride!.....I figure I'll rig something up to get it to kick over. It's all good....its not like my top end is nice and fresh and probably somewhere around 150 psi or anything. Kicks kinda hard.

Yup, lost it riding yesterday and if I have to I'll use a stick to kick it over. Wouldnt like to have to, so if you've got one, let me know. Also need the screw that holds it on that it slides on. Thanks

still looking

hey nyuk, does it have mounts for the taillight? What color is it powdercoated? I bent the shit outta mine when I bent my a-arm and its still sticking up in the air. I'll be able to exchange that title on tuesday when I get done work if thats cool with you.