.

Out in the west I dont know how it is, but here in the east we dont have the desert and open area like that as much. I know for the most part you stick to on the trails anyway. Sometimes you go off a little bit and play around on something you see, but for the most part, and mainly the funnest part, is ripping down an established trail already. I think if a trail is established already, it should remain open, it should be marked, and left for us to ride. If your caught more than 15 yards off the trail, I feel you should be fined. If your hunting, you should have to park your atv off to the side of the main trail, do your hunting, and if you have to, the only reason you should have to take your atv more than 15 yards off the trail is to retrieve a kill. If your not in the act of doing that.....you should be fined. Now open areas, whats open, should stay open, and going past that area trying to create new area, should be posted. I cant really speak for the open desert areas, but I'm sure theres areas that are public land that are just vast open miles of desert to rip around. Dont know what to do about that, or how much harm it really creates. Maybe there should be like half mile wide trails that you kind of have to stay between while ripping through an area or something? Basically.....we're giving the psychos something to yell about by going into this uncharted territory and destroying more woodsland with trails. I can see where there coming from on that issue. It's nice to walk through a woods and not have to see a trail every 500 yards going somewhere. As an atv'er, I want to protect the woodsland that is there to enjoy, but also want to be able to get to that woodsland with already established trails.

I've pulled my head off quite a few times and torqued them back in increments of 10, 15, then the final 20, and have never had a nut come loose. no locktite.....they should not come loose. Almost guaranteed that dude didnt torque them right. Did he torque your cylinder nuts too? I'd be rechecking them as well if he did. YOu wont be able to get to 2 of the nuts, so torque the other nuts and get a feel for how much pressure it takes, and then torque the other 2 by hand.

well hell.....I know who should be designing the roostfest shirts and all that when that type of stuff comes around. Let me know when you wanna start doing them again....I'll look for some good pics....actually....I'll hit you up when I get back from hatfield-McCoy.....should have some good pics.....hell....I dont know....I have the IMS tank on and the shee looks like shit with it so....I'll find you something You definitely do some really good quality work. What you do for a living? Ever think of taking your skill into the commercial world? Lots of money in it for sure.

thats alright....I'm gonna throw it in my 2nd shee

timing plate 35, flywheel puller 13, and you'll need a torque wrench. Easiest way to get the flywheel to stay put while your unbolting and torquing the flywheel bolt is to take a ratchet strap and wrap it around the flywheel and tighten it so it doesnt move. Works like a charm Pull footpeg, pull shifter, pull stator cover, pull flywheel, pull stator, pull timing plate. And then reverse. All you'll need is a #2 and #3 philips, a 10mm wrench (use the wrench on the timing plate bolts, or is it 12 mm....I forget already), a flywheel puller, a ratchet strap, and some locktite. Takes like 20 minutes, 30 if your drinkin a beer.

save up your money and buy a revo......the technology is like banshees to blasters. I'm climbing over stumps and curbs that I wouldnt even of thought about with my t-maxx. Not to mention its a ton faster with the electronic transmission.

I've got pipes, filter, domes, and delta2's and it was just missing a little something somewhere. Well, what do ya know....it was the timing. It woke up everywhere.....I dont know why I didnt do it sooner. Just took it out for a couple rips and the first three gears all i'm lookin at is the sky. I was lookin at the sky before, but not like this. If I had room to hit 4th and 5th I'm sure I'd be skybound as well. The power just feels more there everywhere if you know what I mean. I also added a tooth to the rear which I'm sure is helping as well. I forgot how plush the suspension is too....I cant imagine some really good shocks. Coming down from wheelies must be like landing on pillows. and I dont even have my ported cylinders on yet

nah its used and I have no clue who makes them? Little chinese dude in a warehouse somewhere?

dude, unless you sucked in rocks.....chances are its long gone out of your engine by now

Dude.....I see nipple Lol....happy bday man I got my helmet cam back up and running if you wanna use it some time

huh....thats weird.....haynes is usually pretty good. Thats a pretty important bolt to put the wrong torque numbers on.

good thing I came back up here and checked.....36 did feel a little weak

thanks man

I've got one, 12 bucks shipped and its yours

dont have my clymers around me and gotta torque this thing. Anyone got the torque number for it on hand?

Yeah.....LRD's provide 9 hp across the rpm band increase over stock (at the least). The Toomey's have spots in the rpm band where they are only about 6 over stock. The peak hp number is 18 over stock I believe (if I remember correctly) for the LRD's and I know the Toomey's produced 1.5 hp more than the LRD's at their peak. Personally I'll give up the 1.5 peak hp for a pipe that is gonna pull harder through the whole rpm band. My buddy and I would drag and he had t5's and I had LRD's and our only difference was that I was running a foam filter and he was running a K&N and had ported reed cages. I'd pull on him a little coming up through the gears and we'd be about dead even at the end But I'd kill him in the woods

I'm guestimating over 13 grand including the 5300 I walked out the door with it brand new in 2001. The sad part is, is that its still a POS compared to some on here.

That's what I was thinking

every piston will be different, thats why a good machinist will only bore a cylinder after he has the pistons that are going into it in his hands.

where'd you get yours? I like the intense on the grips. I got the rogue odi ones. Did yours lock on the inside and outside? Look like they do by the gap being there. How'd they lock onto the grip? Was their 2 notches in the locks that they clipped onto. They look exactly the same, wonder if their interchangeable. I got a pack of 3 sets of mechanics gloves for 23 bucks at costco. They are pretty nice gloves for a non named brand sorta. I always get mechanics gloves over riding gloves, I always find them to last longer and are more manueverable. Man, I put the gloves on and wrung my hand on the grips.....my hands arent going anywhere thats for sure.

you could always get a battery kit......hook your lights up to it too and they'd still work when you turn the shee off, and wouldnt dim

thats what I meant by coming on faster, from off idle, your hitting the powerband real quick. Which can be a bad thing if your not getting enough traction. When I adjust my pipes to low end, they basically act like a 2 in 1, but still pull a lot longer in the rpm's and dont sign off as early. Where my pipes really shine is off idle up to where the powerband starts coming in. They have a really smooth hit thats spread out pretty good. What this lets you do is adjust your pipes to where for the most part in the woods your just sitting out of powerband and with a little blip of the throttle it starts transitioning. There is a ton of torque right in that bandwidth. That right there is where I feel a lightened flywheel will help the most for me, sometimes if you drop down a little to low, it takes the engine a second longer to come up through that powerband transition. There is a ton of torque there to compensate for it still, just lags a little bit. When I get my ported cylinders on there too I'm sure that'll help some as well in these departments. I'll make sure I hit you up after I get back from hatfield mccoy. It may be a good long time though before I need it if I decide to part my rolling chassis out instead and go with a 250R style rolling chassis from LRD or somewhere (like 5500)

alright, alright.....I gotta put my 2 cents in here. I havent rode a lightened flywheel (yet), but I am still running my stock swingarm. I have a -1 going on when I get back from Hatfield-McCoy, dont want to do all this stuff and not have a chance to get used to it......anyway. Anyone that says a banshee doesnt have low end power is completely full of shit. Anyone that says it doesnt have any out of powerband torque....is full of shit as well. You need to build your bike for your type of riding. My LRD's have so much low end power and torque, its ridiculous compared to other pipes. When I adjust the pipes for the powerband to come on early, the tires just want to spin and spin, but when I adjust it for top end, it smooths the powerband out a little wider in the rpm band, and gets rid of some of my wheel spin down low (adjusting the pipe for the most part adjusts where the powerband comes on). With it adjusted for low rpm the powerband was just coming on to quickly, much like a lightened flywheel would bring my rpm's up to fast, and all it did was make my tires spin and I wouldnt go anywhere faster. Believe it or not, it puts just as big a smile on my face just playing around in the woods, lugging my engine down and climbing through boulder fields we have around here, and doing stuff like that. I grin ear to ear doing that as much as I do when that powerband comes on. It's all how you build your shee. And especially heading to Hatfield-McCoy where you hope 5.5 gallons is enough fuel, last thing you want is your engine to rev easier every time you hit the throttle. The only way I think I'd run a lightened flywheel is after I get my negative swingarm on. I will probably try it and see how much quicker my throttle response is, and see how the rideability is down in low rpm's (I'm talking just off idle). Until then, its all speculation......my main thing is it just urks me when people say a banshee has no low end power.....when they have t-5's or something that is made to ride in the powerband. If you wanna ride out of the powerband....go buy a pipe that was built for that. (and all those 2in1 pipes do is make the powerband come on faster, they dont really improve the out of powerband power, they just get rid of it)

nope.......just send them to me......they're useless actually....you gotta cut off the rubber pieces of the intake to make them fit, or go aftermarket

oops......I misread that.......