Ruko

If they are set up for stock length a-arms and you put them on +2 a-arms they will be too soft. You increase the leverage with the longer arms so you will need to get them revalved for the extended arms. They may also need to be resprung. Best to check with Works or some other shock rebuilder like Shane. The length of the shock should stay the same though.

The 450 shocks work great with +2 a-arms, and they are way cheaper than aftermarket. Of course getting some aftermarket shocks set up for you would be better, but for the price the 450 shocks are great.

I'm pretty sure Grand River Racing also builds triples....

lol... you just wish you could drive 110 legally...

It is in the downloads section in ATV Owners Manual. There is parts and install sections, then a section on set up. It's not as detailed as the ones you have for bikes, but it's a start. I just checked their site and it worked for me... you need Adobe though to be able to read it.

Edmonton... Alberta... Ya baby Canada rocks

The Elka site has a good read on setting up your suspension. Kinda like what you were saying about setting up for bikes. It describes all the adjustments, what they do and a little bit about how to make it work for you.

Sanddragon..

Get ahold of Shane... he does shock rebuilds and he could tell you all about how they work. If you do need to get it rebuilt he's your man. He does an awesome job and at great prices. I had mine done last year and I am very happy with it. Huge improvement over stock. Give him a call (219) 313-1424

We have found Spider's work well up to about a foot of snow, with some screw in studs for traction on ice. Haven't tried paddles though.... Spider's are good for just about anything so if you go off into rocks or something you don't have to worry about tearing paddles up. We don't put ski's on though so with ski''s they may be able to take on some deeper snow with out having to push the front tires through it. Although if you have ski's on the front you'll have to stay in the snow anyway, so you wont have to worry about rocks and stuff so much...

Ya what they said... front 4-156, rear 4-115

The one on the bottom of the reserve goes to the radiator, the one on the top of the reserve goes back up to the front, over the steering stem and back down the other side as the over flow. That is the one that leaks coolant out onto the pipes when it overheats. The hose off the water pump and the case vent hook together into a three way "T" connecter just above / in between the carbs.

I don't think you can replace the ball joints in the stock a-arms..

The Trinity 420 is not a stroker, it is a big bore. They put oversized sleeves in stock cyl's and use bigger pistons for a little extra cc. Check the bore size, the 420 is 69mm on the frist size and can go up to 71mm for oversizes. It uses a stock crank or a stock stroke long rod crank. As far as I know you have to get the pistons from Trinity. They had them made specially for them. There should be a number in the top of the piston, unless it is beat up too much to tell. If you can find the number on it just give that to Trinity... if not you will need to find out if it's got stock rods or long rods to get the correct pistons. Other than that just do a normal top end rebuild, as long as you don't find anything else wrong with it.

Way back when T-Rex Cyl's were sold by FMF and said FMF in the side... they are probably just old T-Rex cyl's... Great cyl's just the same, but kinda outdated now that Cheetah's are out... Unless of course FMF has got into something new now...

I have the Tech 4's... they seem ok... I have had them for three years now and I have no complaints...Of course you have to remember they are cheap so they arne't the best but they are ok.

Mine measures just under 50" where the tires touch the ground.

There is also a TORS wire that goes to the park brake if you still have one. You have to disconnect that as well. Just follow the wire down from the brake lever until you get to a connector. The main TORS unit is the little black box under the tank, it usually has a triangle shaped connector. Then the wires coming off the top of the carbs. TORS SUCK... it's nothing but problems.....

Lonestar's webpage has step by step instructions on how to install them, and what you should set them at for your type of riding.

Get ahold of Andy at Sanddragon... he sells Elka and can tell you all about them... I have and love my Elka's. They will be set up for you and your riding style so it's best to just call a dealer to see what will work for you and what they'll cost you.

You say it's not firing right.... I had a broken ring on one side and it would still run cause the other side was good, but it had no power and kinda coughed and sputtered. If you don't have a compression tester you can check to see if both pipes are hot. Also put your hand over each pipe end and see if you have the same amount of exhaust pressure coming out. But the best way to tell if you have a dead cyl. is to do a compession test.

Do a compression test.

Shane has lots of options as to how you want it built so there is lots of different prices... just give him a call...

His name is Shane.... also goes by Lobo Performance on e-bay, his phone # is 219-313-1424. He rebuilt my rear shock.... works awesome.

I have an old pair of front shocks he can have.... just pay shipping.... they are off a 96, or 98....