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Everything posted by Ruko
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The lock up works great for any type of riding. Of course the most benefit is when you are wide open. It works on centrifical force so the higher your rpm's the more force it aplies to the clutch. I don't know of any disadvantages, at lower rpm's it works like normal but at higher rpm's it locks up. You can't even tell except there is no clutch slippage and it feels like you have more power because you are getting it all to the ground.
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If you are getting fuel coming out the vent tube the float is probably stuck open or the needle valve is not sealling and it's overfilling the bowl. Just pull the bowl off and have a look.
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It goes on the outside, you remove the spring bolts and add it on with longer bolts that should be supplied with it. You do have to get your side cover modified to get enough clearance though.
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I have one on my 485 Cheetha and it works great. I haven't had any slipping problems. I run it with a Barrnet clutch and a Magura hydrolic lever and it is smooth as silk. I got mine from K&T Performance in Utah. The lever pull will still depend on what springs you use in yor clutch. If you use the stock springs it'll be the same as stock to pull but the clutch will hold a lot stronger. It uses weights to add extra pressure to the springs. I used the stiffer Barrnet sprigs in mine but with the hydrolic lever it works real nice.
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There is a guy on here named Shane who does rear shock rebuilds. He has mine right now. I am expecting it back any day now so I can't really give a review but he seemed to know what he was talking about, and he does the same rebuild as Elka but for a better price. Check farther down in this forum.. there is a few other topics from and about him.
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I am looking at getting a set of 22-11-10 haulers. That would be with 10 inch rims, but a buddy of mine thinks that it makes a difference what size rims you go with and that I should get 22-11-8 instead. Does it really make any diference?? I want them for hill shooting mostly.
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Just got mine today!!!!! I haven't got them on yet but they look great so far. I'll let you all know once I get them on and I try them out.
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Ya baby!!!!!!! That's what I like to hear!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Thanks everybody... I guess I will look for a new one. I am getting some new +2 a-arms anyway so maybe I will go with a wider axle as well.
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I have a stock rear axle that has a bend in it. Can they be straightened?? If so what is the best way?? I have access to a press and V-blocks so I could dial it in good. Would it hurt to put some heat on it or are they heat treated or something??
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I friend of mine has a set of shocks off a sled on his banshee. I don't know what kind they are but he really likes them. The ones he has are not adjustable so he just bolted them on and they seem to work. At least they work better than stock and he already had the shocks so it didn't cost him anything.
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I am wanting to get my rear shock rebiult and saw a couple posts about Shane. He hasn't been here long and his profile is empty. Does anyone know anything about this guy?? Is he legit or what?? $275.00 is a good price but only if he knows what he's doing and doesn't rip you off.
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So far no body has actually answered your question... if Cheetah power valves are what you want they all come from Trinity. There are other places to get them but they just buy them from trinity first. I got mine from K&T Performance and I love them!!!!! The Power valves are awesome... well worth the money and when you compare them to cubs they really aren't that much more since you get the whole top end. Pistons, V- Force reeds, intakes,and head, and the new cheetah heads have interchangable domes so they are a lot better than the old ones also. I would recommend K&T for sure if you want to pick some up. Check out my post in the product review section.
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How do you get ahold of UPP??? I can't find a webpage and I have no idea where they are to get a phone #...
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I tryed there and the parts guy is searching for some but so far he hasn't found any either.
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Does anyone know who makes the narrow hose clamps used on the carb boots?? I am running 34mm Mikuni's with UPP boots but regular hose clamps are too wide for the groove in the boot.
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Ya go to the Wiesco site... I believe it's just "www.wiesco.com" it has all their sizes on there but it's really slow
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No my signature is old... it's now a 485 Cheetah..... awesome man... Check out my other review about K&T Performance. But ya I used to trail ride my 420 as well and it was pretty good too. Way more mid than stock even with the porting, and of course lots more top end. When I say trail riding though I mean fast trails, or wide ditches... we don't just puttt around in the trees.... we're lit most of the time.
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I am the kind of guy who thinks good service meams alot. I also think good service deserves some recognition. So I would just like to let everyone know about John at Extreme Fabrication. He makes all kinds of aluminum stuff like bumpers, skid plates and grab racks. First I got a bumper from him and not only was it a good price... He has same day shipping so I got it right away. It looked really good too. The welds looked awesome and it seemed really solid. Then when we mounted it I couldn't believe it actually fit!!!! I have a couple buddies with AC bumpers who paid twice as much and had a hell of a time getting them on. They had to bend the brackets and grind out the holes to get them on. Not so with John's bumper, it bolted right up no problem. Then I got some grab racks with built in cooler racks for myself and some friends. Again the same great price and fast shipping, and again they looked and fit really good. But then I ran into a problem. When I bolted it up and tryed lifting on it I could get it to bend a little in the middle. So I called him up and said I didn't think they were going to be strong enough once I put a can of fuel on there and went bouncing down a trail. He said he has never had a problem with them before but he would look into it anyway. So he got a Banshee into his shop threw one on and had a look. He then decided that there was some room for improvement so he added an extra gusset to it to make it stronger. Well thats great for all the new ones he makes but what about me and my three old gussetless racks???? This is were the great service part comes in.... not only did he ship me out some of the new gussets at no charge, he paid to have them welded in by a local welding shop. They are now solid as a rock and look and fit awesome. All I got left to say is: Great product!!!!!!! Great price!!!!!!! and Great service!!!!! Thanks John If anyone needs any aluminum accessories give him a call, 435-688-7352 he is also on E-bay under xfrproatv-com Rob
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It actually belongs to a friend of mine but it ran great when he took it apart. It all came off an 03. They are std. bore cyl's with stock ports and Weisco Pro-lite pistons. The pistons are about a year old but they look good. The stock head, reeds, intakes and carbs also go with it. He took it all off because he bought my 420 top end, so there was nothing wrong with it.
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If you work it out one tooth on the rear sprocket doesn't make much diference. Going with 14/38, 2.71 ratio is about the same as 15/ 41, 2.73 ratio, so three on the rear is close to the same as one on the front. However I did see a post about someone who had a chain clearance problem with a 38 rear. I think it said the chain was hitting on the sprocket hub or the bolts or something. I haven't got mine yet so I don't know for sure.
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I have 450 shocks now and I am looking to get new a-arms so I talked to the guy at Quicksand and he said that is what he does. If you tell him you are going to use 450 shocks he will move the shock mount so the shock will be the proper length.
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First I have the Mikuni's as well but I have them on Cheetah cyl's so I'm not sure about clutch clearance. With the Cheetahs they sit way higher than stock, but I did have some pipe clearance problems. I buddy of mine uses the old Mikuni 34mm round slide carbs with stock intakes and 1/2 inch spacers and has lots of clearance, but I'm not sure if they are the same size bowls or not. Second Don't worry about connecting the chokes. You can get a lever but there is lots of room to just reach in and pull the chokes seperatly. As far as setting the idle screws you got it right allready, just turn them all the way in and then adjust them out equally. Third If you want to use an air box UPP makes boots that will fit between the 34mm TM carbs and the stock air box. I think the air box side of the carb is like 2 & 1/4" or somthing like that. I got mine from Alba I think they were $25.00 or $30.00

