Ruko

Hey Sanddragon I talked to the guy at Quicksand and he moves his shock mount when you use 450 shocks to get the proper length. Can you do that to yours or are they all off the shelf for banshee length shocks??

Ignore my last post... I did a search and found all the info

What is a tudor shift pro kit???

This thing has been in the works for a few months now but I just got to test my new Cheetah 485 on the weekend. I guess this is kind of a two part review so here goes... first I got all the parts and work done by K&T Performance in Utah. These guys were great. Excelent service, great to deal with and they really seemed to know their stuff. They had it all done right on time and went out of there way to get it shipped to me, as I live in Canada so shipping can be a pain in the butt. There prices were really good as well, which is always a nice bonus. So I would difinately recommend these guys. Check them out http://ktperformance.com/main.htm Now on to part two... What I ended up getting was, Cheetah 485 cyl kit with power valves, Mikuni carbs, and their lock up clutch. I tell you man this thing RIPS... It is awesome!!!! It has all kinds of power everywhere!!! There is this one hill out here that we like to climb that is pretty tricky. It's all sand on the side of a river. Of course it's steep but the hard part is it has a bunch of trees on the hill that you have to go around so you can't just pin it. You're on and off the throttle so normally you have to be very creative with the clutch to keep from dieing out. Well now it's almost too easy... I didn't even have to touch the clutch. It has so much power all through the rpm's I could just get off the throttle to go around the trees then get back on it and it would just come right back from nowhere and keep on pulling. I couldn't believe it!!!!! It pulls like a four stroke on the bottom and screams like a Banshee on top!!!!! And the top end just seems to go on forever. There is a few local shops with dyno's so I am really interseted to see what kind of curve this thing makes. I will post a chart as soon as I get one, but for now I gotta give two great big thumbs up for both Cheetah Power Valves and K&T Performance. Rob

I don't know what kind those are but they're both for the right side. Notice that the tabs are both on the same side and the tubes both bend the same way.

Changing the clutch is no big deal. If you want a good step by step with pic's, parts break down, torques, etc... Find yourself a Clymers manuel. They'll tell you everything you need to know.

YES!!!!!!!!!!!! Do a compression test... you will probably find it's top end time.

bump

I am running a case saver on the front so a 14 tooth is as big as I can fit but I've heard of people running a smaller back sprocket. My local parts guy can only get a 40 tooth rear which won't make much difference. I would like to go with a 38 or 39 at least. Does anyone know where to get some??? Oh by the way my banshee is an 01. I guess the older ones use a different rear sprocket hub.

I had the 420 kit from Trinity until about a month ago. I ran it hard for 2 years and never had a problem. I bought my cyl's used and they were already sleeved so I'm not sure how long it takes to get it done but I've heard Trinity take forever. I also used Trinity's stage 4 head with their big bore domes instead of getting the stock head machined. It all went together very well, all you have to do is match your cases to the porting. It ran great and had a big power increase, but the really nice thing was it was more power all around so it had more pull in the mid which ment less shifting. About the only draw back is you have to get all your parts... pistons, rings etc. from Trinity. I never had a problem so I never needed parts once it was running but I just like to have options.

I just put my cases back together last week and I was going through the gears with out the shift star on yet and it still got stuck between gears so I don't think it has anything to do with the moded star.

I just put on a Magura hydrolic lever and it works pretty good but they cost quite a bit. A couple buddies of mine got some easy pull levers and they're great. They make a huge difference and they're CHEAP. I wish I would have got one of those first.

Check out NOSS Machine... he sells the whole set up. It's $90.00 on his web page.

What is the differences between Mikuni and Kiehin carbs? I am looking at PJ 34mm and I think the Mikuni's are TM 34mm. I used to run the Kiehin's and they worked just fine but I got a Cheetah set up which came with Mikuni's. The Mikuni's don't fit with my pipes but the Kiehins do. I don't know what the difference is between them though.

They are the UPP intakes that come with the cyl's.

I just got my new Cheetah Cyls... they looked awesome until I tryed putting my pipes on. I got the 485 cheetah kit with Mikuni 34mm carbs bored to 35.5mm and CPI inframe pipes. The right carb fits no problem, but there is no way the left will fit. Try as I might, the pipe interferes by about 1/2". Does anyone have any sugestions??

Thanks

Hey does anyone know waht size the stock carbs are on a Suzuki LT250 and an LT500?

Stock cranks have the pins pressed into the counter wieghts. To true them is just to check and make sure they are all lined up properly, and then to weld them is to weld the pins to the counter wieghts so they can't move. It adds extra strength if you are making big power. It will require removing the crank and having it done some where. Unless you are making lots of HP it's not needed. If you just have bolt ons don't worry about it, but it's good to get done if you split your cases for some reason.

What are the advantages on extended a-arms? Do they ride better or just give you more stability because of the extra width?

Thanks for the help everybody... I think I'll get her a Blaster and see how it goes.

I'm thinking of getting a Blaster for my girlfriend... Are they any good??? She hasn't rode much so I figured she could always upgrade it later.

Complete top end off an 03. Std cyl's, Wiesco pistons, head, intakes, reeds and carbs. $400.00

Mine did the same thing... it was the head gasket leaking just a bit. It ran fine and didn't get hot but it would pressure up and spit out all the coolant. Try changing your head gasket.

I am looking at getting into some power valve cyl's and of course T-Rex and Cheetah are the two contenders. I've seen a couple T-rex machines around but I've never seen a Cheetah. They both cost about the same but is there any advantages or disadvanteges to either??? I believe The Cheetah's are a nicosil bore compared to the cast sleeve in T-rex, but is there any other big differences??