Banshee17Racing

Judging by how clean that thing looks, you don't go through much mud. I say hack 'em!!

Measure the damn thing. It's not too hard to do. Oh, and when you're done doing that, change your big ass sig.

Good Choice! For domes, it all depends on your elevation and what type of fuel you want to run. PM dlnoss for more info. He might even chime in sooner or later. I think you're gonna have a hard time finding the "perfect" porting for TR6's. You can always tell your motor builder that you have TR6's and go from there. Your pipes might feel completely fine to you after you get it ported. But you'll be able to get MORE out of the port by going with different pipes. I would pick your type of portjob by the type of riding you do. Then if you decide you don't like the TR6's with the port, you can always sell 'em and buy different pipes. And if you're lucky you might even find a clean set of pipes for cheap and make some money.

Is there an echo in here?

That's exactly what I did when I had her ported. The stock pistons looked perfect and the cylinders didn't look bad at all. So I just had them honed and put Wiseco stock size rings put back on the stock pistons.

That would be my guess. When I replaced my stock cable, it would bind when I turned so far. Like DIRTMAN said, also check to see if your Carbs are synched.

I've heard a bunch of good things about the adjustable LRD's. I think it'd be awesome to "adjust" your powerband. The only thing I don't like about them is how they look. If you're looking for bottom end I think the Gnarly's aren't a bad choice at all, you could also look into Paul Turner Mid's. I think I would rather have the LRD's over the Gnarly's just because of the adjustability. But I haven't ridden either.

LMAO. Those are all good. But the GF didn't really think so!

I'd start with a -2 Swinger, rebuild your stock rear shock, +2+1 A-arms w/the nicest set of shocks you can afford, +2/+4 axle, Steering stabilizer, 15 tooth front sprocket, and a nice set of tires (I recommend Kenda Klaws). I'd look into some 20" fronts and 18" rears if you don't have them already.

lol, That's some fucked up shit! What's the deal Brian??

Those MXR4's hook up pretty good...for about 15 rides. A buddy w/a YFZ450 bought some of those last season (brand new). He liked them a lot. No joke, those fuckers were wore down after 10 races. So he flipped them around and wore down the other side, and he got about 3 more races of out them. I couldn't believe ITP would charge someone like much fuckin' money and not have them last a full season. Like I said, they hook up, but if I'm not getting those damn things for free, you won't see them on my bike. EDIT: By the end of the season, he heard me talking about my Klaws so damn much that he went out and bought a set of his own. He says he hasn't regretted the switch at all.

I do. I ran a clamp on K&N and now run a UNI clamp on with a 34mm PJ. I've never really had problems with them. The tracks I run at are always groomed and never really get to a soup mud. But there have been times when the track was a little past tacky. By the end of the night the filter had quite a bit of crap on it, but it wasn't caked on there. I just clean my filter after every race and I'm good to go.

If you don't want it...I do. Definately check it out. RZ cylinders will bolt to Banshee cases, and the powervalves are why people do the swap. I'm not sure on all of the other parts you'll need to run the motor, but I know quite a few members here have RZ jugs or know plenty about them. Either way it sounds like everything you'll need is on the bike.

Where in Iowa are you from?!? If you guys don't think Klaws hook up...you need shorter swingarms! When I run the Klaws for softpack on my -2 I can't keep the front end down. I personally don't think they can be beat for the price.

Congratulations New quads always get more hype than what they deserve.

Make sure to measure the intake side of the carb...

I'm not sure what Works charges for revalving. I would recommend you have them valved soon if you want a descent ride. I would call around for prices, but just remember that Works isn't the only place that can valve them.

I don't think they would necessarily be too short. But what are they valved for? You're going to get a shitty ride, no matter how short or long they are, if they aren't valved correctly.

A Yamaha stealership?!?!?

That's A LOT more motor than you really need for MX. You need a PORT JOB! Plain and simple. You're other option would be finding some RZ350 jugs but that might be too much trouble than it's worth for what you want. Search the forum for "MX port" and you should come up with days worth of reading. Find a reputable builder and go from there. A 4mm portjob on stock cylinders would be plenty of motor for MX. Suspension is what I would be worried about...

You're saying you can tell if a bikes ported by looking through the intake, carbs and reeds?!? Or are you repeating exactly what I just said?

I haven't seen too many 'shees running long travel. And the couple that I have seen were set up for MX. BTW, I'm not sure how close you are but Quicksand Motorsports is in AZ. I'd def. check them out.

Take off the intake, carbs and reeds, then look at the inside of the jugs. The bridge (the thing that seperates the two holes) would be the easiest way to tell. If it looks like someone's removed material, then its ported.