bigboybanshee

You must have the newer version w/ the transformer, it's an upgraded piece from the capacitor version. I had to shim mine to clear the tank but have no problems clearing the frame, maybe its because of the aftermarket chassis. I used a small 1/8" piece of aluminum to shim it, you can pick up the metal for the shims at lowes. Other than it hitting in those couple spots, it sounds like you have it installed correctly, the feed tube should be under the seat, about the same spot your air filters would be.

Those hoses go to the flux plugs. You should have gotten two male fittings that screw into your existing spark plug holes, and you'll screw your flux plugs into those fittings. The flux plugs are not included, you'll have to buy those separately. A lot of folks look at me crazy when I tell them about Mr. Fusion, but it really made my bike fly. Don't forget to hook up a 1.0 microfarad capacitor inline with the power source, sometimes it needs that extra juice to completely atomize the fuel. I picked mine up from ALBA

Yes, trenching is cutting the cases to allow for a bigger stroke. You can trench the stock cases quite a bit, but once you get to a certain point you'll need to have the cases strengthened, there are a couple different ways to do so...Each style of cylinder has its limits as to how big of a bore you can go. The reason most people don't go out and buy large stroke/bore engines is because of how much they cost to build. It's not just buying a crank and cylinders and letting her rip...you have to completely change everything...transmission, clutch setup, head, carbs, pipes, etc. It adds up real quick...Call a builder, price out a big engine, you'll be surprised how much it costs, lol

I would start by getting the Mr. Fusion kit. It increases horsepower by 45%, it's a bolt on kit too, no major fab work is necessary. I've been using it for a few months now, I love it. :thumbsup:

I USE SIMPLE GREEN TO REMOVE THE DIRT THEN YOU USE WHATEVER ALUMINUM POLISH YOU PREFER TO KEEP IT SHINING

To do it right, you'll need some tools....bench grinder, die grinder, roloc pads (3M preferred), sandpaper, various sized buffing wheels, and a couple different compounds. If you don't have these tools, it's worth it to send it to cascade and let them polish it for a couple hundred bucks, since you'll spend that to buy the tools needed to get the job done. But, you'll polish the cylinders just as you would any aluminum surface, the end result will be as good as the prep work put into the job.

What strength clutch springs are you running? Are you running a lockup?

Thanks! Doing well now, got back to work, wife just got out of school and is working, drag bike is finally getting where it should be...things are great at the moment, lol How you been, anything new?

Sold, pending payment

How much do you sell the watermelons for? Got any piahhps?

Thanks! I was wondering that too, I figure $550 shipped would almost be a steal, plating isn't that big of a deal, just needs to be done. Cub cylinders are what, about $850, new, untouched out of the box. $400+ dollars in portwork, $200 polish job, that's $1,450 to buy the same setup new, then wait 8 months for porting, 2 weeks for polishing...or you could pick these up, spend 300 bucks, wait a month for plating and have a hard running setup for the price you'd pay for just the cub cylinder untouched. Come on folks, someone snag these up, I take paypal and money orders :thumbsup:

I need a flywheel that's in perfect working order...what kind of price can you do on one?

Thanks! Cascade's polishing is reasonably priced too, I highly recommend them.

Pics Damage on the right cylinder, this the only thing wrong with them.

Been out of work for a few months, working on drag bike constantly, trying to race every weekend, got my first baby on the way, life has been crazy for a while. Plating usually runs around 300 bucks. Thanks! Travis

I have a set of 4mil cub cylinders, fully ported from F.A.S.T. Racing that I am selling, they're polished by cascade too, but they need to be re-plated. I forgot to turn my fuel on one pass and ate a plug and it scored one side pretty good. Millenium should be able to fix it up no problem. Polish job can be saved too, just be sure to put a note in the box asking them not to blast the cylinders after plating. I ran a best of 4.13 on them, backed up with a .15, 17, and .19 - I weigh 300lbs and have been the only one to ride it. I'm sure it'll run low 4.00's if not 3.90's with a light rider. I also have several folks that'll vouch for these cylinders' performance I'll take some pics tonight and post them up, asking $550 shipped to anywhere in the continental U.S. Thanks! Travis

Sure does! http://web.mac.com/outlawsanddrags/iWeb/ww...s.com/HOME.html Come on down, we'd love to have you out. I have a friend in Nashville that comes down frequently to race, I live in Memphis, it's 2.5 hours for me too. :beer:

Tires, rider weight, bike weight, engine HP, power curve, swingarm/chassis length, track surface, etc. all have a factor in what your gearing should be. I ran 14/41 on my stock cylinder 350 on 1/8 mile...it seems real short but that's what my bike liked best...each setup is different, there is not a "best gearing" to run. The best thing to do is bring your sprockets to the track and change them as needed...when you find something close, practice making the runs perfect then fine tune the gearing after that... :beer: If you have a video camera, bring a friend and have them tape the runs. That helps out so much in seeing where you need to make changes. Sometimes the bike may seem to be running its best while you're riding it, but when you watch the videos, you can see just how your bike is reacting and when, and where you are in the powerband when you cross the finish line. :thumbsup: Just for reference, on this run, the bike felt perfect and I "thought" I was at the top of my gear when I crossed the line, but after watching the video, I realized I crossed the line as I was still accelerating...I want to be at the top of my final gear when I cross the line, so I need to change gearing...just an example of how much videotaping the runs can help with gearing decisions. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lsD2Npx9pc

You can do it that way or you can save yourself a whole lot of headache and buy a chain breaker tool. I can take a link out of my chain in 30 seconds

I'd love to be able to tell ya but it's not my bike to tell about on an open forum...but yes, his bike is extremely fast, and what's crazy is his bike got even faster as the day went on!!! I may have another video of it running, I'll check and see Thanks for the comments everyone, maybe I'll get to see some of you on the track!

It'll happen, the tie rod hitting the shock...no worries, just no donuts :biggrin:

Here are a few more videos Myself racing Ancient Triple from planet sand...his bike is flyin http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8cmgjxDboo My best pass of the day, I always love a close race. This is me and 3DAR from planet sand, he's got a hard running 4mil http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iV_2nDVphI This is Patrick on one of his bikes, toting the wheels most of the track http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOdYt2v7yfI My friend Randy and Mike, Randy is in the far lane, Mike obliterated his front sprocket at the line http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4XXWKpEBAA

Hell yeah, we're going to get together before the races and tear up some little debbies before we hit the track....FBT in full effect!!

Pro design is what I use too, worked great for 3 years now :beer: PM returned

You never know, I just may learn a thing or two from you guys!!!! :biggrin: