cam2

amen brotha. not only is that funny but it's the truth.

there's no doubt it's a disease. yeah the money on parts and machine work add up, so does the money on beer that i drink while i'm in the garage staring at the shee contemplating about what i would like to do next and how i'm going to afford it. as well as comeing up with ways to smooth everything over with the wife so she'll understand how badly a particular new part is needed.

i was there last saturday as well with a buddy from work. we were there from 11:30 till 3. we parked in the last parking lot before you get to the entrance that leads to the camp ground. what's your shee look like? maybe we saw one another. he has a blue shee with stickers all over it and i have a black and red '03 with cut fenders. i'll be at croom next weekend re-jetting my bike after i install my new V-force3 reeds which should be here sometime at the end of next week. plus i plan on being up there friday may 6th in hopes of getting a site so that i can camp the whole weekend. let me know if anyone can make it on either of those two weekends so we can set up a time and place to meet.

yeah tell me about it, i tried the other night to steal that pretty silver one but the damn thing wouldn't start after i tried to hot wire it. i guess it may have something to do with the fact that it's not jetted correctly.

if you use a mild degreaser like simple green to clean the flange on the carb and the rubber grommet on the filter to get any excess oil off to make sure that you have clean surfaces then you should be good to go. you shouldn't have a problem with the rain just as long as you don't submerge the bike and you not ride in a torrential down pour. the outerware will help with splashes of water from effecting your filter but not if it's submerged. i run a single carb setup with a 35mm PWK with a clamp on K&N and outerware and i haven't had any problems yet with water, but i don't run through big puddles of water either.

ouch. actually all you have to do is buff the top of the piston and you should be good to go. J/K

and one more thing, if you happen to be in the confines of a correctional institute DON'T DROP THE SOAP

when in may are you going? i plan on being up there during the weekend of the 7th. during the summer it will most likely be miserable.

oh really? are you trying to tell us something? LOL

heck maried with children kills my banshee funds let alone child support. Definitely use condoms. plus i've heard that herpes medication is expensive as well.

the best way that i have found to do this is to put two nuts on a stud and snug them up so they don't spin off, then you put a wrench on the bottom nut and turn it counter clockwise and the stud should come right out easily then put a wrench on each nut and break them loose then go to the next stud. you may want to use some type of anti-sieze lube on the studs such as liquid wrench or PB blaster, this would help prevent breaking off a stud. good luck.

yeah i ride at croom for the most part, unfortunately. the whole place is whooped up so riding the shee there sucks because you can't let it rip and haul ass. heck you can't even go on a nice relaxing ride because you get beat up from all of the whoops. there are some pits there, riding the pits is fun for a while but i didn't buy the shee to ride in the pits. i prefer the ocala national forest. if you ride the least ridden trails away from the big scrub camp ground then you can find some nice trails. i usually ride about 8 miles east of big scrub. the reason that i ride at croom for the most part is bacause it's about 35 miles from my house where the area in ONF where i like to ride is about 108 miles away. let me know if you're still interested in going sometime.

i used rust-oleum's 7271 silver metallic spray paint on the frame after i cut off the stock headlight mounting brackets and it matched up very well. i bought it at wally world.

i'm in Tampa. let me know when you guys set something up, i would like to get together with some new folks.

if you want to spend the cash get a set of Trinity stainless steel pipes. "you will not find a better built set of in-frame pipes to date". i love the quality and the performance of the Trinity's. toomey's are good pipes, but to each their own. i've ridden bikes with T5's, T6's, and i had FMF SST's which are noted as being a good all around pipe but as far as i'm concerned the Trinity's are a better performing pipe than the other three that i noted. they come on sooner than the SST's and rev out longer. there is no doubt that they are better crafted. if you get them from Trinity you'll pay $700 unless they are still running a special on them for $560 which is what i paid for them. contact "rocketpig" to find out, he's a Trinity rep. if they're not running that special anymore then check ebay because they were going for $640 at one time, i believe. here's a link to some pics of my bike with the Trinity's, if you look closely you'll see that they are nice pipes although some of the pics aren't the greatest. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42344

I live in Tampa and most of the time I ride at a place north of my house called Croom because it

I

yeah cancel the job and have someone that "knows what they are doing" do the work. if you do the work yourself for around $1200 you could get a port job, a new crank, a new top end kit(pistons, rings, and gaskets), your head shaved to bump up the compression, and a clymers manual. if you have the time and the place to work on it, and you are willing to put forth the effort along with the clymers manual and all of the helpful experienced people here to help then you would have a good running shee after you are done. like others have said if all you need is a top end kit then you can get your shee running again for a lot less than $1200.

i just checked them out, $180 for V-force 2's...........damn that's a good price.

damn, i'm sorry to hear that. hopefully you'll get well soon and get back to riding.

yeah run yamaglue at 24:1 like the manual says. that's what a buddy of mine does, "gotta do what the manual says". i hate riding behind him because that thing smokes like crazy and stinks. i swear i can still smell his bike the next day after a riding trip. you could get you some crab, fish, or mink oil.

here's a couple of mine.

well i've heard that as well before i had my jugs PC'ed, i say that's BS, atleast as far as i'm concerned it is. my shee doesn't run any hotter than it did before. it never over heats because it's jetted correctely and maintained properly. the radiator is designed to dissipate the majority of the heat not the jugs on a liquid cooled engine. yeah the jugs probably dissipate some heat but i didn't notice a difference at all.

yes it will work with a stock cable. do you need the thumb throttle lever only or do you need the thumb throttle body and lever (whole assembly)? if you need just the lever then you should look into getting a cascade lever, they start at $35. it's about an inch longer than stock which will help with thumb fatigue. it's billet and it comes with a sealed bearing which help with the smoothness. www.cascade-innovations.com