cam2

yeah you better watch out for the "whatnot", that "whatnot" will get you everytime. that's some bad stuff. like everyone else has said, stay away from the young ones, they're nothing but trouble. well most woman are, but the young ones can get your a$$ thrown in jail real quick like if you happen to upset them after you've hit it. when i was young i liked older woman anyway, especially if they were old enough to buy me beer.

Brad where do you get the magic mix?

Brad, do you member what the re-valve job cost? thanks.

after i get my cub setup put together and running i'm going to put an extended swingarm on the shee. the stock shock is 3 years old so i was wondering if i could get away with using it and puting a new (heavier) spring on it? where would be a good place to contact about a new spring? someone who could tell what spring rate i need.

eagle, can you provide some pics of this setup installed? thanks.

add my name to the list. i would like to compare them to my shearer's on my new cub setup.

add some(a lot) sun tan lotion and it's a deal.

2003LimitedBanshee, the Trinity 420cc Big Bore Kit is stock jugs that they put big bore sleeves in and use 70mm (approxiamtely) pistons then port to your desired porting. it's not a bad setup and it makes a decent trail engine with good topend depending on the rest of the setup of course, not the best trail engine but definitely not the worst. in my opinion it wasn't worth the money i spent on it. i agree. when i did the 420 the cubs weren't out at the time. every day i kick my self in the a$$ for getting the 420 and not waiting on the cubs, damn it man. because you ride the dunes i would definitely go with the cubs over the 420 because you'll get more power for about the same amount of money or less depending whether you go with a stock stroke or +4mm crank for the cubs.

what mods do you have? when my engine was stock with fmf sst pipes i went to 15/41 and it pulled it just fine. after i had the engine ported i played with the gearing and i tried 15/40 with the stock chain so you should be able to run the stock length chain as well.

i want to verify that my float height is correct and i was wondering where/how to measure it. i know the spec is 16mm's but from where? with the carb upside down (floats facing up) do i measure from the base(float bowl and carb mating surface) to the hump on the float or to the metal tab that's mated to the floats? either way i don't get 16mm's.................damn it!!!!!!!!!

have you seen this oil at other autoparts stores? what ratio do they recommend? what ratio are you mixing it at?

put yourself in their shoes, i bet your attidude would be different. if a person doesn't want to get shot don't put yourself in a situation where you have a high probability of getting shot by having a weapon when in a confrontation with law enforcement. people need to get over the fact that it was an "eighth grader" at his age he knew what he was doing was wrong. it's plain and simple folks, if you don't want to get phucked up don't phuck up. i agree.

thanks for the replies guys. wallrat i'm well aware that the black plastic screw raises the slide, i appologize if my question was a little vague. the reason i asked the question i was wondering if one raised the slide too far with the plastic screw that issues with the pilot circuit could possibly be covered up by just raising the slide to get it to idle, just curious?????? jason, when you adjust the idle to the highest with the AS do you have the slides bottomed out then fine tune the idle with the slide height??????

i was wondering how people set their idle with the PWK's. do you get the engine to idle through the pilot jet and airscrew with the slides bottomed out or a combo of the PJ/AS and the slide height?

that's the first thing that i noticed and questioned as well, i'm sure you noticed in the video that they didn't run the stock junk pipes. it was probably cheaper and "safer" to use the junk stockers for production then to run a good performance exhaust. also they shaved the fenders and they didn't have the gay ass heel guards either. when they changed wheels and tires it looked like they put douglas wheels on as well, in '86??. nice find.

no, go up to him and say.... out of complete randomeness..... "you're a flaming a$$hole you loud mouth phuck stick".

well i didn't get the 421 cub setup that i wanted, i got the huge lump of coal that i deserved.

a piece for christmas would be nice. there's a lot that i want, but banshee related a 4mm/68mm cub and a chrome +4 swinger would be a great start. merry CHRISTMAS to all.

this is the clutch that i put in my shee last year. http://www.trinityracing.com/products/yama...sheeclutch.html as i stated earlier you have to remove your stock cushions which is where the extra room comes from. the rubber cushions are approximately 1/8th of an inch thick. when you put the clutch fibers next to each other there is a noticable difference in surface area which can be seen from the small pic on the link that i posted.

i'm pretty sure you'll have to remove the cushions. i put a clutch in that has plates and steels that are larger than stock and i had to remove the cushions in order to accomodate the larger clutch.

hahaha, did he get that guarantee in writing? if so his parts are FREE. even if he had the gearing to reach 90, which would be 16/41 at 9750 RPM's those parts alone won't be able to pull that gearing in order to reach 90. some people will tell you anything in order to sell you a product.

i know you didn't list them, but with that setup a set of FMF fatties would be fantastic and give you a better spread than the others you've listed. maybe FMF SST's or pro circiuts, or PT mid range pipes, that's if you don't mind how they look.

where are you located? there's a place called R&R performance in brandon that has one.

a pair of MJ's gloves will take care of your problems.

here in florida where i ride there's a lot of sugar sand and when it's dry the knobbies (razr's) don't seem to hook up as well as i would like so i'm considering getting a second set of tires and switching them out depending on the terrain and conditions i'll be riding in on a given day. under certain conditions a set of paddles will work fantastic and i was wondering if the V shape paddles really slide easier than the straight paddles, from what i've read in magazines they should but they don't hook up as well as straight paddles????????? hook up is important but i need a set of tires that will slide easy as well because i ride a lot of sandy trails where i may need to maneuvure quickly. if the V's slide considerably easier than straights then i'll probably go with them because they should hook up a lot better than the knobbies. opinions?????