Leadfoot350

firehead I used a blaster piston in mine and there is no way 5mm is going to come out of that cylinder. I didnt even like the idea of 3.5mm coming out so that is why we used a thick base gasket. Also there are no heads on the market that you can plung cut a 5mm hole into first and then design your dome after. Blowit im with you on the limitaions of the stock cylinders. I think if I was going to do it again I would get a 10mm crank and come cubs or cheetas. That is the best bang for the buck IMO. That way you could run off the shelf parts and if you wanted to you could run domes big enough for pump gas if there was too much power. Oh well, next time when this thing is old and tired.

oh sorry im wrong you can go bigger but you will have to resleave the stock cylinders which is not cost effective. I was talking about making the most hp for the $. Looks like a lot of guys have opinions here......

ok this guy is building a stock stroke 68 bore cub right???? You dont need any of that stuff. All you need is the street bike fibers. I can give you the part number from yamaha and some strong springs. Nate found some stronger springs thant the toomeys and that would be great. Why are you guys telling this guy to get all this exspensive stuff. If your going to spend any more money you should get a 10mm crank and some 68 bore cubs. Even with that you can get away with the clutch I talked about.

im not sure how much you are getting yours for but I get mine at tsracing.com for 10 bucks each with their s&b filters. Those ones are 8" long and they are 10 bucks also. People advertise them elsewhere for 25 each which is a rip. So you can get 2 filters, 2 outwears for 40 bucks. Pretty cheap to me.

for the trenching part on a 7mm just lay the crank in there and see where its going to hit then start grinding. Its about 2mm to take out if that. For a 10mm you might be close on some parts of going through but I have never done a ten. The 7 is really easy. What cylinders are you going to put on this engine. 7mm is the biggest you can go for stock cylinders and cuting the domes will be hard. You will have to have blank ones and it would be best if you had a head that took the universal pro-design domes because they are a lot cheaper then if you have the trinity ones like me. They were 90 for blanks and then another 90 to be cut and then they messed them up so another 90 and then another 90 to get cut again. You are going to have to put a thicker spacer under the stock cylinders and you can buy them at white knuckle racing for 10 bucks each. I went with the .42 spacer but with my pistons comming out of the tops so much I would have liked to try out a thicker one. With the .42 base gasket the intake transfers are 131.5 which is pretty good and if you go with a thicker one I believe they would be higher but its been a while. Which this engine its limiting you to pretty much a really hot duner/ hill shooter but its still a blast to dune with. If you need help setting this up then give Kevin a call. He lives in Encinitas and set mine up for me. Great guy and is always helpfull and excited about your projects. Herrjuggsracing.com is his web site. It you are going with cubs then it would be a whole lot easier and give you off the shelf products to buy but would cost a lot more and you could go with 10mm cubs easy.

I just added a cascade one and its a world of difference. They add a bearing on the bottom to replace the stock bushing and that is why its easier to push. I have 35s and only had to cut 2 coils off to make it really easy to push.

Your the fool for wasting all your money. 180 comp and +6 is a 50-50 mix of c12 and 91 octaine. If you dont believe me meet me at olds with a good pair of goggles.

I use magnum power bands. Its what all the big boys run. If they dont fit on you then you will have to use zip ties.

take the lower two off and just put in two 75s up top. Its kind of hard to find the 75s with the glass cover though. You will have to call some specialty shops.

Do you think I would take chances with a exspensive 7mm stroker engine? I would run 110 straight if I had 200 compression. There is no need to waiste money on gas.

You can get shearer inframes chromed for 460 new. Why would you want to have to pay more and get a slower pipe? They do produce more midrange if that is what you are looking for.

I"ll buy it from you for 1000. I live in orange county.

mix your gas 50-50 110 and 91. I have 185 compression and +6 timming and ride at glamis. Your wasting your money with straight race gas.

take it to herrjugsracing. I wouldnt take my cylinders anywhere else. He gives you what he gives himself and is very anal on his stuff. You will smoke almost all the 350s with your dune port from him. Also you cant beat the price.

4 to 1 ratio???? geezzz try 40 to 1.

ya that might be on the border for pump gas. I would mix a gallon of race gas with 4 gallons of 91 octaine if you want to run 20cc domes. That would give you 94.8 octaine. Well if you ever looking for more power or just want to talk to a good local builder to you call Kevin.

ya the clutch side is easy to tell if you have a leak and it will not hurt anything. It will just dump all your clutch oil out the exhaust and oil down the ridder behind you. Oh well just rebuild it and do a leak down test. Is your bike ported? If not or you want more power you should pm herrjugsracing.com and have him check out your cylinders to see if you can get more power out of them. He lives very close to Alba so its worth it to see what he thinks.

ya dont take it apart without doing a leak down test. I was at glamis last weekend too with a newish set up and my bike flat out hauls on the top end but before that I need to work out the jetting. On my single 35pwk I ran a 52 pilot a dek needle in the 4th clip and a 210 main. Im not sure how that compairs to a 38 though.

160 and 300ft you can run pump gas. Your throwing your money away.

tsracing.com look under the brand S&B filters and they have an 8" filter for 10 bucks.

just to let you guys know about doing a 10 mil stock cylinder you have to re-sleeve the cylinders(big money). The biggest you can go is 7mill and the pistons still come out the top so you have to have someone who can cut you domes for this. It gets pretty exspensive so you all might want to just think about cubs unless you are like me and want to look like you have stock cylinders and smoke some guys.

I take it you are using stock intake boots. Go to ebay and look up "boss intake" . They make a manifold for the 35pwk and you can get them for $100. This will space your carb more away from your clutch. It is a very nice piece or alum and has a built in cross over.

it all depends on the roll out of the new tires you get. I have 73 RO and I run 13-40 and pull 5th up oldsmobile hill.

superior sleeve has the best cushions. The hinson ones will last you about 4 trips and then they are loose. Do yourself a favor and take them and throw them in the trash and get some superior sleeve ones.

t-5s like around 188-192 and a 124-128 trans. I like to stick with 70% of the piston size for width. Did you make the bottoms of the transfers even with the piston at bdc?