n2otoofast4u Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 I wanted to build a recreational rider and trail bike that made huge tq numbers and a usable power curve that was capable of withstanding the abuse of being rode in the woods, but also produced enough raw power to smoke any non-drag oriented quad that wanted to line up against it. I also wanted a strong lightweight chassis that handled good without causing the rider to be fatigued so bad that they could barely get off their bike at the end of the day. That's were the long travel chromoly frame that I designed comes in. It should be a really nice Banshee when I'm done with it.So what chassis are you running the motor in now? What did it make for HP&TQ? Are you happy with how it performs? What pipes are you running on it now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted January 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 So much money into a Cheetah. I think u win for most expensive two cyl Cheetah There comes a point when you've got to make that decision, give up and call it day or keep charging forward and throwing money at it. It's obvious which way I went. Lol A lot of the money that I have invested in the motor went towards stuff to increase reliability and engine life. Building a fast 10 mil isn't very hard, building a fast 10 mil that's bullet proof proved to be quite the challenge. As far as I know I've addressed anything and everything that could possibly cause me problems or fail prematurely...... but I'm sure something else will surface that will require attention and possible improvement at some point in time. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted January 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 I haven't had it on a dyno yet. I don't know what kind of numbers it will produce but I'm very happy with the power and power delivery it produces. I don't have a whole lot of time on the motor yet because I keep doing stupid shit like upgrading my rear brake caliper to a new twin piston version and stuff along those lines. As soon as I get a little extra money gathered up and get it dynoed tuned I'll post the charts for you guys to see. I would like to see horsepower numbers somewhere in the 110-115 range and tq numbers somewhere in the 69-72ft/lb range. I'm running the stock unmodified frame now with a +3 extended heavy duty Metal Tech Fabrication Swingarm and Metal Tech Fabrication Banshee-X XC Long Travel A-Arms. I've been running the R2 Rockets that I have and I plan on swapping the R2's out and trying the R1's I have to see which pipes produce the best power and performance yields with the 10 mil Cheetah Power Plant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 JFC. Of course raw pipes that are left unattended will rust. Yes, I'm sure I stated that. But nowhere did I ever say LEDs were made from thin material or that they wouldn't hold up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted January 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 JFC. Of course raw pipes that are left unattended will rust. Yes, I'm sure I stated that. But nowhere did I ever say LEDs were made from thin material or that they wouldn't hold up. Okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 What? I pulled all those pictures off my phone and uploaded them to photo bucket a while back. Which pictures do you think were stollen from a for sale thread? Going check the for sale section. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted January 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 I don't know how I ended up with that picture or why I didn't notice the intakes hadn't been cleaned up or ported at all. I must have saved that picture for something mistaken it for one of mine at a glance. Anyway I'm sorry for the confusion and posting a picture that wasn't of my cylinders. My intakes can be seen in the picture below: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Do you have good luck running that hyd clutch? I always wanted to try one but people that i know that ran them steered me away from them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted January 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 I don't know how I ended up with that picture or why I didn't notice the intakes hadn't been cleaned up or ported at all. I must have saved that picture for something mistaken it for one of mine at a glance. Anyway I'm sorry for the confusion and posting a picture that wasn't of my cylinders. My intakes can be seen in the picture below: Good looking out though, I'm glad you caught that. I wouldn't be able to stand it if I left those casting flaws in my intakes. It probably doesn't make any difference whatsoever because the only material removed is the flaws that can create turbulence and the tiny amount that's taken in order to leave behind a desired texture thats determined by the specific fuel that the cylinders were ported for in order to prevent fuel condensate from clinging to the intake port walls and creating a rich lean condition, but it bug the shit out me. I would have to texture those intakes even if I had to pull the top end off a brand new professionally assembled balanced and blue printed motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted January 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Do you have good luck running that hyd clutch? I always wanted to try one but people that i know that ran them steered me away from them. Well I do now, but it was a bitch for while. I run the Streamline Billettainum Hydraulic Clutch Setup and I think it's was discontinued several years ago for a few reasons that I'm getting ready to mention. The first issue was the slave cylinder arm adjustment on both ends had to be screwed all the way out in order to reach the actuator arm and it would come loose every five minutes or less and then you'd have to pull the carbs and air box, take the aluminum salve cylinder bracket loose screw the adjustment arm that backed out back in, hook everything back up, put the carbs and air box back on and you could ride for another 3-5 minutes before it came loose on one side or the other again. You can see how I solved that shitty design flaw that caused the problem below: I just cut the head off a 6mm X 1.25 stainless screw and bought another section of hex stock that had a 6mm thread and coated the 6mm stud and hex stock with red heavy duty Permatex Loc-Tite, tightened everything down, screwed both adjustment arms back in, and that solved that issue. Then cold weather came and that thick mineral oil shit that the come with that they say you have to run to prevent doing damage to the seals and o-rings didn't move fast enough and delayed the shit out of my clutch action. After researching oil capabilities and viscosities for three days I figured out that a cheap non-synthetic ATF was safe for all the o-rings and seals and it was thin enough that cold weather wouldn't have any effect on the action speed. After I got that issue solved I haven't had any other problems or complaints other than it bleeding it can be a bitch if you don't know what your doing. I encountered both issues I had the first month or two I had it, I solved those problems, and its been problem free for the last 7-8 years and I wouldn't even consider going back to a cable. There was a day and time I would have traded somebody for a cable and a OEM Clutch purchase and lever and gave boot because I was so pissed off! If you can find a Streamline now you know what to do to fix it for $5 or less. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 I haven't had it on a dyno yet. I don't know what kind of numbers it will produce but I'm very happy with the power and power delivery it produces. I don't have a whole lot of time on the motor yet because I keep doing stupid shit like upgrading my rear brake caliper to a new twin piston version and stuff along those lines. As soon as I get a little extra money gathered up and get it dynoed tuned I'll post the charts for you guys to see. I would like to see horsepower numbers somewhere in the 110-115 range and tq numbers somewhere in the 69-72ft/lb range. I'm running the stock unmodified frame now with a +3 extended heavy duty Metal Tech Fabrication Swingarm and Metal Tech Fabrication Banshee-X XC Long Travel A-Arms. I've been running the R2 Rockets that I have and I plan on swapping the R2's out and trying the R1's I have to see which pipes produce the best power and performance yields with the 10 mil Cheetah Power Plant. I've done some quirky testing with the original Rockets. You need a larger Stinger diameter for them to function on a motor that size. I cut mine up and ran 7/8", 1", 1 1/8", on a 440cc motor. Results were much more favorable on larger stinger. It let them actually pull RPM as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeMachining Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 ANY raw pipe is going to rust without proper maintenance whether LED, Shearer, Rockets, etc. etc. I'd say most guys who have LEDs leave them raw. However, if you were to put a coating on it that would help control this process. LED makes inframes as well. You do know LED was LRD correct? You do know what he use to do in the game, right?I wd40 my Snipers after each day I runned it. Envoyé de mon SM-G935W8 en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Yep. I put WD40 on mine once a week. They look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaegerEliminator Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Do you have good luck running that hyd clutch? I always wanted to try one but people that i know that ran them steered me away from them.I tried to run a streamline unit and found it very frustrating to deal with. It would work, but very finicky. When I switched to a mattoon lock out and cover from Cam and stock springs, I had no reason to try the hydraulic setup again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaegerEliminator Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 I actually came across your old thread way back when you ran it... like I had mentioned in it... you need to dial it in with the clutch screw as well as adjust the slave cylinder or else its not going to work well... but yea very finicky to get dialed in, just once its set its good to go and works well. prob more of a pain to set up then most want to deal with non the less I'm a pretty patient guy in most situations. I did get mine to work, but it was definitely a chore to get it dialed in. Are you running yours along with a lock out too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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