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Anyone running a steel clutch basket?


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Who do I have a weird obsession with Nightmare350? My name was thrown around a lot before I even commented on the thread. I don't want to start shit with any of you and I haven't posted anything for almost a year, but I can only stand by and not reply or defend myself for so long when I'm being called names, made fun of, and bashed.

 

If my name was left out this I wouldn't have replied to this thread. If the people that are running me down and talking about me will stop I'll delete my BHQ account. You guys don't know how many times I've wished I had never joined in first place.

That's bs.... You LOVE this place
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You can run an 8 plate with a modded OEM inner hub and pressure plate.

 

I'm not sure what motor you're building, but an OEM 2nd gear will take a ton of abuse from an 18DM.

 

I don't really care why you run what you run, but there is almost no reason for any of it. If it makes you feel better, great.

 

But you can't expect all these BansheeHQ members to get on board with nearly anything you run.

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I'm pretty hardcore in the trails..   you dont beat on a trans like I do.  billet 2nd gear is manditory.  My builder said it should be making about 47hp.. so its right on the fence of needing the billet gears. .  I've broke 3 stock gears already and taking it back to my builder to fix the gears is getting old.

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Thacker, I can see what you're getting at with all of this, but it seems biased.  Your theories are great, but the application of some of your thoughts wouldn't be there.  Finding logic to support the outcome that you hope to find doesn't hold up very well when doing REAL research.  Trust me, I know.  You should know as well since you have a degree in applied science.

 

It's obvious that a steel unit would stand up to more abuse.  However, it doesn't dissipate heat nearly as well as aluminum.  If you apply any given amount of heat energy to steel and then apply the same amount to aluminum, the aluminum will get hotter, but it will also dissipate the heat throughout the material and shed the heat quicker.  Since all of this is partially submerged in fluid, the aluminum will have an even greater chance to pull and shed more heat than steel.  Further contributing to this, the aluminum will have a more even heat signature because, again, it dissipates heat much more. 

 

It's kind of like when you weld a 5' piece of steel and grab the side that you didn't weld on; you can grab it and it won't have much heat to it.  If you try the same thing with aluminum, well... you'd best have gloves on.  It's also like when you install an aftermarket head on a Banshee.  The aftermarket piece will pull more heat from the engine and get it into the coolant, resulting in more heat being transferred to the radiator.  If you check the radiator with a laser before and after, the radiator will be hotter with the aftermarket head, but the tops of the cylinders will be cooler.  To make it more accurate, try this with 22cc domes on a stock bore and stroke engine so that you can't say that the increased heat at the radiator is a result of the increase in compression/heat generation.

 

Back to the clutch.  Standing up to extreme heat isn't so much the issue with the boss, basket, etc.  Your theory would be correct if the aluminum was directly generating heat, but it isn't.  The heat is generated by friction when the plates slip, when the friction material warps under acceleration, and when the teeth on the gears of proximal assemblies roll past one another.  As such, aluminum is a superior choice when aiming to pull radiant and contact heat from the plates (which are what generate heat) in an effort to prevent clutch fade. 

 

As for you to experience wear to the extent that you have, you likely have another problem at hand that presents as clutch assembly wear/breakage.  This was also stated on E2S in the thread that someone posted the link to.  An exception doesn't warrant a rule of thumb; it's just an exception to the rule. 

 

I will agree that the increased rotational mass, which is largely influenced by how much material exists away from the axis of rotation and the distance from the axis, can be easily offset by machining the flywheel even lighter.  This can, as you said, be calculated.

 

Lastly, you claiming that your IQ is higher than everyone else around here is something that you'd do well to stop doing.  You may very well be pretty sharp, but your logic here isn't a reflection of your claimed above average intelligence quotient.  Furthermore, I have paperwork to show that I have an IQ of 161, so go ahead and stop before I put you in your place.

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Ever notice how all the college grads with cushy ENGINEER jobs brag about how smart they are. Then when you show up and go to put their super intelligent idea to production it's a total shit show?...........

 

I've never had a print from an "engineer" that wasn't a total pile of shit. They're paper pushers with zero real world common sense or knowledge.

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I don't want or care if anybody runs the components or setups that I run. I'm not a parts distributor, it's not like I stand to make or gain anything. I'm simply telling others what I've found from my personal experiences. I try to build and make everything as strong and durable as I possibly can because in the past it seems like if it can be broke I'll break it.

 

"Over Building" has saved me quite a bit of money this last go around. You know I'm all about having parts modded and machined. If I had known the stock inner hub could be modded and used for a 8-Plate Clutch Setup I would have tried it. If I had sent a OE Inner Hub out and had it machined for a extra plate and had it anodized I would have 20 guys making fun of me and calling it a idiot for for upgrading a stock inner hub, but if somebody else does it its a good idea.

 

I'm afraid if I post the details of the motor I'm building or mention the builders name for fear of a bashing session. It is big and it's being built by a reputable site sponsor.

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I never stated that my IQ was higher than everyone else's. another member claimed that my presents on this thread dropped the forum IQ average by 15% and responded by saying that my IQ was higher than his. I never said "everybody".

 

Like I've said, I've had premature clutch basket failure in the past just like Tim. I replaced every clutch component one by one chasing the issue and none of them fixed the issue so I had a buddy machine me a custom Basket for free. I didn't feel comfortable gambling a $1,000 on Hinson's Spring Loaded Basket.

 

I've never had any type of overheating issues after I upgraded my complete cooling system and built the CP Serval. My operating temps stay bellow 180 degree's no matter what. I am running a Stealth Lockup, a oil cooling additive, and a cover that has more holding capacity. So maybe that prevents that problem from surfacing.

 

I respect your opinion and input but I haven't been faced with any problems since I went with the steel basket and upgraded all the clutch components.

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