Banchetta

I would think that your close to sea level, but check a geographical map for your area. Might even find something online. Your local weather station would know.

W/ the lid on the air box. STart w/ a 300 main. If you can take the lid off, or cut the end of the lid about 1.5" right behind the clips so you still have all four clips to hold the cover on, then I'd start w/ 320 mains....

If you can, run the lid off the air box. It restricts the air quite a bit. If you want to keep it on, then cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid right behind the clips so you still have all 4 clips holding the cover on. I'm running 300 mains, needle in the 5th clip from the top, stock pilot, air screw will vary to elevation. Your elevation will affect your jetting. I'm at sea level. 300 mains would be a good start and work from there..... Repack the silencers w/ either packing or even just house insulation. They both work well and last just as long....

If it idles slower when you pull the choke out, then your shee doesn't like it, meaning you don't want a larger pilot. Adjust the air screws and find the best position according to the highest idle and best throttle response. Let us know where that stands. I'd also richen the needles, not lean them out. Fmf pipes in my area always liked the richer positions. I'd run it 4th clip from the top. You should notice more bottom end pull and less hesitation.

The little air screws are on the left sides of the carbs facing the atv from the back. The idle screws are on the outsides of the carbs, so the left carb will have both screws on the same side, but the right carb will have the air screw on the left and idle screw on the right......Hope that didn't confuse you...Right?!!!

If the crank seal was leaking then it would only be one side that'll be lean. Try removing the inline filter. Maybe the fuel can't run through it fast enough.....especially where the shee is gravity fed....

It all depends on the type of riding you do. Every pipe will give you more power, but its where you put it........

I'm around, I just don't post if I agree. Like Ben said, you can't really get a close jetting suggestion w/o knowing the air box mods or filter setup. I had to go up 2 sizes just by cutting my lid....The air box setup really affects the air flow. Keep up the good work Ben, its nice to have multiple minds on the subject... :wink:

Damn, I've never heard of that before w/o porting.....Is the petcock on the gas tank slightly plugged??? Fuel free flowing to the carbs...Try adjusting the floats in the carbs??

Then why does it ride so different???? Even my friend had a transplant done to his by Elka and didn't feel much different than my stocker....I know everyone sais the stocker is an ohlins, but is that really true???

I probably will be riding the 2nd. I ride every weekend thats nice exept for the hot summer days.... :oops: Give me a yell!! Jimmy, get that stroker together. I want to see the potential of a shee!!!

It means that one side isn't running properly, but doesn't mean its the spark.....Switch the spark plug wires and that'll tell you if its the coil.

Disconnect the tors?? Equalizer tube in place between the carbs?? Slides in the right way??

I rode JKJK's shee and he has Ohlins rear shock on his. It was very impressive compared to my stock one on my shee. I didn't know he had a different rear shock until I rode it. Even on flat ground, it was noticeable like the front shocks.. When I got off his shee, I had to see what kind of shock was under it, and there stood the Ohlins........They are like $750, but if you have it, buy it....

It controls the stock computer also known as TORS (throttle over ride system)

Its the pilots. Mains ONLY control wot and nothing else.

It should idle warm if it idles cold though. Adjust the air screws to the right sides. The little brass screw closer to the intake boot. Screw them out a little, maybe a .5 turn or even a full turn. Do this to both carbs and that'll lean out the idle circuit a little.

Had to work today and couldn't make it up to the drags. I'll be riding in Dayton tomorrow. I'm sure we'll meet up sometime this year or next. Norm is trying to get me to have Larry do my cylinders and cut my gears. I think I might give him a try. He seems to know his shit and did a great job w/ Norman's bike...

I wouldn't buy a stator yet. Usually a stator will either work or not. I'm thinking a bad connection. Check the orange and black wires on the coil under the gas tank. Make sure the connection is tight. Check the plug caps and make sure you have a good connection. Try swapping coils from a friend to see if your coil is acting up. Also disconnect the black/white striped wire going from the kill switch on the handlebars to the gas tank. There is a single connection, disconnect it. That'll bypass your kill switch on the handlebars. Those switches tend to fail.

You might have reversed the slides, look into the air box intake and see if the cutaway of the slides are facing the airbox. If not, then swap the tops of the carbs over.

I didn't find out, You have to find out. Thats how you check to see if you havve the right size mains. The sputtering could be from you not putting the choke tube back on between the carbs (1/4"x 2" long). Has it just started to sputter since you pulled the carbs or is it an on going problem??

You Gene nahhhhhh....(can I go?)hehehe Whats up kid, hows those ribs treating ya Let me know when your up for another ride. We'll hook up. Chase73, Banchetta...either of you two going to be at Dayton on Sunday the 19th? Im trying to plan a trip up for the day maybe ill see you guys up there. Banchetta, Id still like your opinion of jetting for the shee I will be there if it doesn't rain. Weatherman cant tell the day before... Oppinion??? Bring it up Saturday evening and get a motel. I'll dial it in for you for Sunday... :wink:

Did you run your shee wide open in 6th gear before you did the plug chop. Normal riding will give you a false reading. Make sure you run it wot for 5-10 seconds in 6th gear. Next, make sure the choke tube is in place between the two carbs (1/4" x 2" long), Make sure your slides aren't backwards. Did this all start at once or after you changed something???? The parking brake switch is on the handlebars by the clutch. There is a wire that comes out and goes toward the gas tank. There should be a connector by the tank, disconnect it.

Depending on what type of riding you do. Do some research before you just buy any set of pipes. You'll see big gains w/ any pipe, but select the one that suits your riding needs. Get a good filter setup like the K&N w/ the flange, get a cool head or have the stock head rechambered for higher compression. If you run knobby tires, then shorten the swingarm about 2". Do some research on this forum and you'll find all the info you need. The only 250R that comes close to me is the 370R...

You probably rode up Rt35 to Dayton. Keep following Rt 35 till you hit Rt. 5 and take a left onto Rt 5. Go about ......3-4 miles till you come to a stop, you'll be merging w/ Rt 202/4. Take a left and go about 1/4 mile and its a dirt road to the left. I think its the 2nd road. I'm gonna check it out this weekend and talk to the guy more. I was out riding the day I spoke w/ him and was w/ a couple of buddies on 4x4's. So I'll check into it more and let you know. ARe you coming up this weekend?? Might be raining......