Banchetta

If you trail ride, then keep them on. I cut mine on one of my older shees and regretted it. They work a lot more than you'd think. The mud in the face can really suck and get old. You don't even need water in the trail. Just a wet or damp ground will kick shit up. Personally I regretted cuttin mine even though it does look better.... Choice is yours.

Did you check to see if your getting spark? Wet plugs? Fouled plugs??Slides in backwards?? Little black box above left exhaust disconnected?? If those are fine then I'd try turning your airscrew in or even put a larger pilot and go from there.

Main jets have nothing to do w/ starting. They only control wot. Pilots and air screws only control staring and idling. Maybe you forgot to put the equalizer tube between the carbs back on?? Did you swap the bowls??

Will be 29 in a couple of months. Damn time goes by fast when you get out of school!!!! I still feel like 20 on the toys though. Love speed and riding.

I raced Chase 73 last weekend and he had 28's on his. Hes putting the stockers back on this weekend and we'll race again to see any differences. His is ported, so we'll see if the carbs will give a gain for porting or not. He claims his throttle response still isn't as good as stock carbs.

That is what I've got. The zero drag lip roller. I highly recommend them. They work excellent and haven't bent one yet or destroyed one. I also bought the one for the swingarm. Don't waste your money on that one. The one by the rear sprocket. The only two chain guides I run is the zero drag roller and the Tm design swingarm guard by the motor. It doesn't fit aftermarket swingarms though, so I'm thinking of trying the one cascade has.

I didn't care for the amp link and took it off. I think it drags more then it helps. Zero drag rollers work really nice and last a while.

Pipes and silencers make a HUGE difference. Your next mod should be heads. Especially at your elevation. Your compression must be around 100psi at that elevation. Bring it up to around 160-165psi and you can still run 93 octane and have incredible acceleration. Good luck. Meat has a website w/ some good info on the heads and elevation. Go to the Bansheezone. Anyone have the link??

You live in Buffalo. We all know the truth. Slerge the money!!!

Your right. I'm only polished though. I lost hp from bottom to top. That was with 34's. I'm trying 28's next spring. I'll post what I think of em.

I agree w/ broke. It really depends on the track. I raced on one that was really tight. Never got out of 3rd gear. A dynoport might of been better. Then I raced on another track which I never got under 2nd gear and hit 6th gear on one of the straights right before a jump. My PT mids ruled on that track. I haven't rode a shee w/ the DMC, but everyone describes them like mine. Broke is right when he sais the PT's don't emphasize any particle spot. They just pull straight through. If the DMC's are the same, then get them. You won't regret it.

I've had mine for 3 years now and haven't got one dent in them. I'm the only one in my area to own them also. They have more torque than any other pipe I've tried or ridden. The hp is pretty respectable. I got 53hp at 8600 rpms on mine w/ stock carbs. I've raced a lot of other shee w/ pipes. Even though I didn't set it up to drag. Most people see my shee go and they want to race. So far, I've beaten every shee in my area exept one w/ FMF sst's. We were dead even. There is 2 shees that I haven't raced and I think they'll beat me, but they have way more mods than I do. The shees that I've raced had : FMF golds, FMF gnarly, Trinity, Pro- curcuits, Bills, and there was nother guy that I only seen once. I guess he drag raced, his pipes looked like Bills headers, but the silencers were small and round like the Toomey. They didn't have any writing on them. He was a close race though. I only took him by 1/2 bike length w/ 3 runs at 500'. Anyways, I'm rambling on. I'd suggest them to anyone who doesn't ride the dunes. They are a great all around riding/racing pipe. The best part is working on the engine is a breeze.

The PTs have a better low, mid and top. They really don't have a specific area. They just pull straight through consistently.

I thought my barnett pulled way to hard. I got a clutch from Duncan racing the second time. It pulled as easy as stock and still goin strong for 3 years now. I'd buy another one.

There is a guy around here that has them, but I haven't asked him to try his shee, the way everyone describes them, I'd say they are pretty close. The power comes on instant, but smooth. I think my PT's pull awesome on top. I rip through 6th gear just as fast as 3rd gear and I'm pulling a 16/42 gear. Thats why I like them so much. I have insane bottom end compared to stock and still hit 88mph. I think Yamaha should have these for stock pipes. Then when they field test, the shee would win every time. I don't think these are the best pipes in the world. I think the FMF sst's and FMF gnarly are great low end pipes also. It just depends on the riding you do. These pipes meet my standards and needs. So when someone ask "what is the best pipe for the shee", I say "what kind of riding do you do?"

It depends on the terrain. Most of my riding is between 2nd and 4th gear. The low end pipes will pull better off the line then high revs. If you do a lot of cornering or stop and go, then low end or midrange pipes will outperform top end pipes. Don't get me wrong, you can run high revs in the trails and tight areas, I did it for years. I just find the PTR's a lot more clutch friendly, less tire spin, and less fatigue in tight trails and sand pits. The instant powerband at the touch of the throttle is priceless. Especially jumping on vertical hills to get to the top. I'd rather be a little slower in 6th gear, then to lose the instant throttle and hard pull up a 75', 80 degree hill all rutted out, w/ a jump 15' from the top. :twisted: :twisted:

I think hes looking for a midrange pipe, not a top end pipe. I'm sure the T5 rips on top, but won't stand a chance on the bottom. In the woods, a bottom end pipe is the only way to go.

If you want a pipe to produce from 5000 and up then put a 420 LR w/ the PT mids. You will have a torque monster from hell. I once read that a bell shaped curve is the best curve for hp. It was in one of the Dirt Wheels articles on the Pikes Peak challenge. They dynoed all the atv's that were racing. PT and two other companies are the only ones to have a perfect curve. That was w/ PT's 403cc stoker to.

Those dyno charts only show you hp. When your woods riding you need max torque, not hp. When I do my dyno runs, I look at the torque more than the hp. Torque is what will accelerate or pull you out of the corners. I'd take my PT mids over any high rev pipe riding in the woods. A lot of pipe companies say this and that, but it all comes down to what works for YOU. I like the FMF sst's, PT mids, FMF gnarly, for woods, trail, and sand pits. I've tried several pipes. Talk to people w/ your type of riding whose tried different pipes from low end pipes to high revs. Not too many people buy different pipes. They just buy some and think they are the best because they go great in a straight line, which is great if thats what you do. My .02

Everything you have, but I don't think you need a racing radiator, rear shock, unless you have the money. You can put water wetter in the coolant which will help the overheating, and the rear shock is a good shock. The fronts suck though. Sounds to me that your doing a lot of woods riding. If so, then choose a bottom end or midrange pipe. Top end pipes are hard on clutches through the woods and don't pull out of the hole as well. I'd also get reed petals or v-force, timing degree key or timing plate. I'd also get the blaster foot pegs (which will move the pegs back 2") Shorten the shifter and brake lever to compensate for the pegs. Get a -2" swingarm or cut the stock. This will help for traction and help corner better. Especially in combo w/ the foot pegs.

I'd say 34mmPJ's. But 1/2 to 3/4 mile is a long way and you might want to go even larger.

I've had mine for over 3 years now and never dented mine. I've rolled my shee and ran it through woods all the time too. They fit perfect and have great access to the motor and don't have to worry about burning your legs or cutting the front fenders. They are also inside the frame. They aren't exposed at all. Unfortunately, no one around here has T5's for me to compare to. As for other brands, I'd pick the PTR and fmf sst's over everything else for my type of riding. I don't think the t5's would suit me because they are a high rev pipe. My .02 Depends on the riding needs.

Go w/ the mids. The high revs are like the toomeys. You won't regret them. Trust me.

Depends on the application. I'd choose the Pt's any day for trail, pit, and mx. I don't drag or ride desert, so I wouldn't dare to make an oppinion. I think thats where the toomeys and cpi's would come in. Has anyone tried the PT high revs? How do they compare to other high rev pipes?

The higher compression and degree key won't affect the top speed, but you'll get there some fast. You might want to rejet your mains. You should be pulling a couple of mph more than that. :wink: With the higher compression and timing key, you'll be able to pull a higher gear. =more top speed.