Banchetta

If it ran fine before and you haven't changed anything then the jetting shouldn't be the problem unless you moved. Elevation change?? Clean the carbs thoroughly w/ an air compressor...

Antifreeze: = amounts of everything Absolute Vodka Triple Sec Madore Blue Curaco Sour Mix I'll get the ingredients from my friend for the Hurricane Punch!! You'll like that one too if not even better....Let me know when you come back up, we'll hit the......bar......you know..... You guys should have stayed, I found another hill that was pretty cool. Had a hard face about 2/3 up the hill. Hit that and never touched the rest of the hill till I got to the top. Johnny would of loved that one ....We didn't have a lot of chopped up hills today. Maybe next time we'll get really crazy....especially if you have a camera...ask Chase, it only gets better..

Sounds like a plugged main jet to me. Try cleaning the carbs thoroughly and use an air compressor to blow it out....Do you still have tors hooked up? Little black box above the left exhaust??

What size pilots are you running and what position is your needles set at?? Try adjusting the air screws??

Every 20 degrees out is a main jet size....If your only 1 or 2 sizes too rich then leave it. Winter is around the corner. Unless you want to rejet next month....

The pt mids or sst's will give you more low end. Top speed is pretty comparable. The powerband is a lot wider, but won't rev as high. Great for your type of riding. Pc's have no low end from my experience unless you have porting done. I think you'll see big gains for your type of riding.

What do you mean by cleaning the sand out of everything??? Cleaned the sand out of what?

You must have swapped the bowls on the carbs or one of the little ports is clogged in the carb. Blow it out w/ an air compressor.

340 mains, 30 pilots, needles on the 4th clip from the top... Adjust air screws according to throttle response.

If you have an air leak, then your going to get a false reading from the pilots and air screws. You'll have to fix that first and start over. The reason why and air leak makes your shee rev higher is because your motor is getting more air. Not because its lean..Look at the carbs. Nothing pumps gas into the motor. ONly the air going through the carb pulls the gas into the motor. So when the slides are down in the carb, your restricting how much air the motor can have and thats your idle...The air leak is allowing the motor to rev up since it has more air flow besides whats going through the carbs...By you giving it more gas to slow it down is like pulling the choke to kill the motor a little....See what I mean?

I thought I had a jettting problem once w/ my friends shee. I changed the jetting 3 times to figure out it was only the Tors.....If it ran great before then I can't see why timing and a lightened flywheel would affect it, unless your timing is too far advanced. You might want to check that. Also make sure your flywheel didn't sheer the key after you installed it or if the nut loosened up. I've seen it happen to a lot of people. The tors is the little black box above the left exhaust w/ a 3-wire plug. Disconnect it. Also check the parking brake switch on the handlebars. Pull it off and follow the wire towards the gas tank and disconnect it at the connection.

Uhhhh.....why are you looking for a different pipe??? Is there something about the shee or powercurve that you don't like?? Need more info on what your looking for. Different pipes will change the powercurve dramatically along w/ porting...

You should adjust the air screws so it idles the highest then turn the idle knobs down to compensate....

Booked!! Was the Hampton Inn expensive???? I could find a cheaper one if you want....There is a bunch of motels on Rt. 1 besides the one I gave you...

Keep us posted. We learn just as much when people reply back. Its a win, win situation.... Good luck, hopefully it is something really simple. We've all done it......

keep the stock pegs though........the -2 controls are fun on trails but for mx your laying on your front end..... Really?? You like the stock pegs better for mx??? I thought it helped throw my weight from the front to the rear a lot more easier and vise versa. Especially for cornering and in the air.....I also feel like I'm too close to the handlebars w/ the stock foot pegs too, but I'm also 6'2"....

Now is that 2lbs compared to aluminum or steel?? If thats compared to steel, then its not worth it, but if thats compared to aluminum, then there would be a lot more weight difference from the steel..... I can't remember what my swingarm weighed. I know my new steel swingarm is 2 lbs lighter then my stocker and the bearing carrier is also 2 lbs lighter since its aluminum.....

Boonmans right. You shouldn't have to run it rich to get it to idle down. Something isn't right. A lean pilot will make it start hard, but not rev out....Did you make sure the cable adjustment wasn't holding the slide up?? Sorry for any insulting questions, just want to cover everything...If not, then you must have an air leak. Like Boony said, process of elimination. Seems like you have all the luck....

Ripper is right on. Switch the caps. Both plug wires fire at the same time. When the piston is all the way down the plug fires but doesn't do anything. They call it a "dead fire"...I'd strongely suggest you get a compression tester and see where your compression stands. At least you'll know whats going on inside the motor. As far as the screws:.... get them immediately.....Your jetting will be way off and inconsistent and you'll also get dust and dirt in the carbs and motor.....Not good...Like ripper said, it wouldn't hurt to check the reeds. How did you sync the carbs??

My buddy had a shee w/ the Trinity stage 4 pipes and a CV 2 into 1 intake. It had absolutely NO low end. I'm talking about counting to 5 before the powerband kicked in after you hit the throttle. I don't know if it was his jetting or pipes, but that was annoying. I'll give them credit though. Once they kicked in, hang on.....they revved to the moon.

The titanium wasn't that much lighter?? How much is not much??? I thought about building a custom mx frame w/ titanium.....

Thats what it looks like after you ride it?? Mine looks like that when I first start it and stays like that until I ride it, then clears right up. What size pilots are you runnin?? You should see your coolant level dropping if your burning coolant....You should also be able to smell the antifreeze in the smoke. Smells really sweet....

Its all you Ben!! I'd also add to Bens post. Do you still have the Tors connected? Little black box above the left exhaust? Disconnect it. Also disconnect the parking brake switch on the handlebars and follow the wire to the gas tank to a connection and disconnect that. Make sure your slides aren't backwards (cutaway in the slides should face the air box). Try switching the spark plug wires and see if the opposite side acts up...New plugs?? Let us know how that goes...

White!! You didn't say that before.....White smoke is a definate sign of burning antifreeze. If antifreeze is getting in, then compression is going out...Its just wierd how both sides are identical and have the same problem. Both sides smoke white?? Definately post those pics. Your also talking about after the shee is warm and not cold. Just making sure...

I'd go for either the sst's or the Pt mids. STay w/ a midrange pipe for trails and sand pits. The high revs are better for open areas. You need the low end power for trails and pits more than you need the top end.....T5,T6, and Pc pipes are more of a top end pipe. Other midrange pipes are Bills, Dmc, fmf golds, and if you really want low end w/ equal topend power of stock then get the 2 into one pipe.